Level42
New member
Don't know about that, but I know that I did the only proper thing:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62884.msg858916#msg858916
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62884.msg858916#msg858916
Adjust Donkey Kong Jump Button Microswitch?
- Thread starter paulliadis
- Start date
apocalypto
New member
This is a pretty interesting technique. I've no doubt it would be a great mod for your own cabinet, but it does make me wonder what affect it would have on playing ability with a different cab, especially if you were competing. Your timing would be ever so slightly off maybe?
Still, I may give this a shot. A super responsive jump button is very appealing!
Still, I may give this a shot. A super responsive jump button is very appealing!
OP
OP
paulliadis
Well-known member
There was talk with those guys at the kong off about adjustments to their control panels. Don't know if it was buttons or joysticks or both
OP
OP
paulliadis
Well-known member
Success
I just made the adjustment. I only moved it slightly but I can tell the difference. This will help me better deal with closely grouped together barrels.
I just made the adjustment. I only moved it slightly but I can tell the difference. This will help me better deal with closely grouped together barrels.
Blasphemy!
As others have said, there's no need to bend the button microswitch levers--there's a slotted hole so it can be repositioned for slight differences in button length (when I received my shaved-down replacement buttons from Mike's Arcade, I had to move them about .030" to make contact).
I do however use a "trick" on joystick adjustment that works great on Pac-Man too; if you remove the stick and bend the levers (leaf switches in the case of Pac) to bear on the shaft barrel harder, it gives the joystick a much better centering function. When you let go, it'll be back in the middle so that you'll always have the same throw to engage your next movement.
With Pac, people often think the rubber grommet has given up; some even make grommets of harder rubber. But putting a little tension against the barrel of the joystick gives a great feel to me.
Also, there are to my knowledge only two ways of dealing with near-grouped DK barrels that aren't close enough to jump with a single leap. Either jump early over the first one to leave enough time for that 2nd jump (it's processing time, not electro-mechanical button function time) or... if you're Steve Wiebe (he did this a number of times in his Logan Hardware WR attempt) or Hank Chien (video below), you have no problem doing a backwards run-and-jump. It requires incredible timing, but I've managed to pull it off a few times. As Billy Mitchell says, "never say die!"
Hank does that backwards run-and-jump at 1:03:
I do however use a "trick" on joystick adjustment that works great on Pac-Man too; if you remove the stick and bend the levers (leaf switches in the case of Pac) to bear on the shaft barrel harder, it gives the joystick a much better centering function. When you let go, it'll be back in the middle so that you'll always have the same throw to engage your next movement.
With Pac, people often think the rubber grommet has given up; some even make grommets of harder rubber. But putting a little tension against the barrel of the joystick gives a great feel to me.
Also, there are to my knowledge only two ways of dealing with near-grouped DK barrels that aren't close enough to jump with a single leap. Either jump early over the first one to leave enough time for that 2nd jump (it's processing time, not electro-mechanical button function time) or... if you're Steve Wiebe (he did this a number of times in his Logan Hardware WR attempt) or Hank Chien (video below), you have no problem doing a backwards run-and-jump. It requires incredible timing, but I've managed to pull it off a few times. As Billy Mitchell says, "never say die!"
Hank does that backwards run-and-jump at 1:03:
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D_Harris
Well-known member
It is not a good idea to use the switches this way. It reduces the life and the consistency of them.
The switch may be in light contact with the joystick shaft, but should never be under tension at rest.
Only the adjustment or replacement of the grommet or spring that centers the joystick should be should be done if stronger re-centering is desired.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Thanks! I'll try that spring tension tip for DK--makes sense. I didn't add much tension at all really; in the center "rest" position there's very little tension. Probably years of play had relaxed those levers a little--there used to be a sizeable gap and the joystick was loose feeling. I may have done nothing more than close that up to original.
The Pac leafs as you know have two leaves; one is for stroke tension and the other for contact. I only give the contact one a little extra "oomph". A brand new grommet didn't change the feel enough for my taste (I know somebody... maybe Bob Roberts sells Pac grommets made with a higher durometer rubber). Doing this has allowed me to use a smaller gap on the contacts. I found that it really plays well, responding to slight movements while still centering and providing some "feedback".
It's a subtle thing--I don't go overboard with it. Anyway, it it is shortening the life in some way I doubt I'll ever experience the effects of it--this is a home arcade and Pac gets no more than about 100 hours of play in a year. On Pac, the worst that could happen would be a broken leaf.
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I've been thinking about adjusting my button recently and glad this post came along. I adjusted mine yesterday using these screws, and man does it make a difference. I put it right up on the button, so when the button is pressed it clicks pretty quick. It makes the timing a bit more accurate for me. Now time to get used to it...
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paulliadis
Well-known member
I'm with ya Jeff. Glad the post helped.
I could not pull off that backwards jump that fast like in the video, before I made this adjustment. It's funny though that the button "sounds" different when I push it than it did before. Throws me off a little. Of course I notice it because I play with the sound off (to keep from waking up my kids).
I noticed the same exact thing with the sound. No button "bounce" sound. I have to have the sound on in the game. It helps me with my hammer timing. I can't even crank music up when I play unless I can still hear the game. I need to learn the timing without the sound...
Level42
New member
Well, I know only 2 DK cabs in The Netherlands (mine is still a MB, but that will change to DK) so I'm not too worried about that. I'm not a hi-score player anyway. Even so: IF I would have to compete, I can always bring my own CP. (Something I'm pretty sure every top player does ? It's like using your favorite brand of tennis racket, players are allowed to choose their favorite as long as it sticks to certain rules).
I just generally hate micro-switches and will replace them as much as possible with leafs.
(I would surely put them in my SW yoke if that were possible !)
Blasphemy or not, I don't care, as long as it is reversible AND as long as I can play as comfortable as possible. I would do the joystick as well if possible, still looking for a way to get that done.
Micro-switches. Yugh.
DK micros are totally different from the generic happ style switches. The DK joystick actually is very well suited for the game and is key in how you play it. I would think that if we're talking competition then the original micro sticks should be used anyway.
Level42
New member
Maybe. Thing is I grew up playing DK with this:
http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2435.msg30285#msg30285
In all honesty, I played DK mostly on my Atari 600 XL, and I agree that the arcade version of course is still a lot different considering control...
It's a very rare Suzo Competition Pro. This edition was before they started using micro-switches on them, and as you can see, it's al leaf....
Anyway, the leaf-button, micro-switch joystick combo works fine for me so far on MB, and I'm sure it will on DK.
You're right about the Nintendo MS set-up being a lot different feeling, it's more acceptable, but once you get used on the leaf button, you're not going to want back. Timing of my jumps is so much better. The thing is that I can adjust the leafs like I want them to be...
http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2435.msg30285#msg30285
In all honesty, I played DK mostly on my Atari 600 XL, and I agree that the arcade version of course is still a lot different considering control...
It's a very rare Suzo Competition Pro. This edition was before they started using micro-switches on them, and as you can see, it's al leaf....
Anyway, the leaf-button, micro-switch joystick combo works fine for me so far on MB, and I'm sure it will on DK.
You're right about the Nintendo MS set-up being a lot different feeling, it's more acceptable, but once you get used on the leaf button, you're not going to want back. Timing of my jumps is so much better. The thing is that I can adjust the leafs like I want them to be...
