Adding Gun Games to a Cabinet w/ 6 in 1 Switch

medeski7

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I have a cabinet with a 6 in 1 switch on it and I hope to add a gun game or two to the cabinet in the next week. I have a 1069 in 1 from Jammaboards on one input and a Golden Tee 2005 on another, the remaining 4 slots are empty.

I'm curious if anyone thinks that a gun game will work or not work if added to the open slots. I hope to add Point Blank by next week, and possibly a carnevil after that. Please let me know if you foresee any problems from this setup. I can't think of any at the moment, but I've only been in this hobby for about a year.

On a side note, this place is awesome. I learned almost everything I know from reading these forums.
 
With one gun game i see no problem as guns connect directly to the pcb like the trackball on your GT.

Switching the same gun to multiple boards will be tough if even possible.
 
I had thought about that. I was considering, in the event that I add the carnevil after the point blank, adding two sets of guns.

My understanding is that Namco guns and Happ/ Williams guns (I think they're the same) will not work on the same game. I could run two sets of guns making my current hellcade even more hellish.

With my trackball I have a y adapter that runs to an Opti-pac for the 1069 in 1 and has a standard connector to connect with the GT. I was also wondering if a similar y adapter to hook up to two separate gun games might be out there.

I love dedicated machines, love them. Here in DC though the square footage is tight and I really only have room for one. I am hoping to get the parts for the Point Blank by getting them from a full machine this weekend. It's a shame though, the cabinet for the Point Blank will probably get smashed.

The guy giving me the parts would probably get rid of the cabinet for an additional $50 too, I just don't have any room.
 
Noted. That's a good point.

I'll post the results of intalling gun game 1 after I finish. It seems to be fairly simple.
 
I rigged up two gun games to use the same guns (obviously not at the same time). The problem I had was that one of the boards was not high impedance when it was turned off.

I got around that by using an analog buffer between the gun and the boards. The buffer was able to sink enough current to pull down both boards at the same time, while the gun could not.

I know it was a 74xx chip, but I don't recall which one.
 
A while back I did a 2-1 switcher on my Lethal Enforcers to add Lethal Enforcers 2. I made a relay board to switch the guns between boards, that only took 4 relays. If you look at the post my board has 8 relays because I also switched stereo sound (outside the jamma connector) and video (The Y-plus board does not switch video which can cause interference, ussually a dark screen). Here is a link to the post.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=52893
 
This is when you guys have totally school me. Seriously, I'm much more of a rookie than that.

However, I'm seriously intrigued.

So maybe this is a total noob question, but couldn't you have hooked up two sets of wires to a single molex connection and run the two sets to the appropriate connections on two separate gun pcbs, one for each LE pcb?

And Fibonacci, an even more noob question. If the board was turned off, why would the impedance matter? Are you saying that if more than one board is hooked up and one is not the correct impedance it would affect the display or control of the other board?
 
I was considering a project similar to this one a while back but got stumped with the same issue you are having. At the time my idea was to have the guns attached to each board. So essentially you would have two sets of guns. I dont like things to look to ridiculous so my idea was to have each gun harness off each board as intended but have it where I could plug the gun into the front of the game. Sort of like a controller. So I would have 4 ports on the front of the cab and I could switch out the guns out depending on what game I was playing at the time.

If the two games used the same gun type then you could just switch from board to board in the back but having to get behind the game to switch back and forth would be a major pain.
 
I did run parrallel wires to both boards first, I didn't think it would work and it didn't. The second board caused interference and the guns didn't work. Now this may not be true for all boards it is definately worth trying first since it is relatively easy to do.
 
So I picked up the point blank pcb, gun pcb and guns yesterday and came home to begin my install. Everything seemed to plug right up for the most part. The guy gave me the jamma harness as it was attached to the game and I had to cut the player 1 and 2 first button wires, the first and second player start buttons, and what appeared to be various monitor wires, a few of witch were sync, red, blue, and maybe one other.

I ran a jumper to the 1 player first button wire from my control panels first button wire that was cut from the old jamma harness and the gun responds, but doesn't seem completely register. What I mean is that if you pull the trigger the screen will flash indicating a response. However, even when putting the barrel of the gun against the target it still won't register a hit on the target.

There are a number of wires running from the guns to the harness and then to the gun pcb. There is also one small set of wires in a molex that was connected to something in its original cabinet, but is not attached to anything in my cabinet.

Is there something I am doing wrong that is not letting the guns register hits?
 
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Is there something I am doing wrong that is not letting the guns register hits?

First thing first, Did you enter setup mode and calibrate the guns to the monitor?

second thing, What kind of monitor is it, be sure the crt if clean, and be sure the gun optos are clean. Did you see this pcb/gun's working on another machine?
 
First thing first, Did you enter setup mode and calibrate the guns to the monitor?

second thing, What kind of monitor is it, be sure the crt if clean, and be sure the gun optos are clean. Did you see this pcb/gun's working on another machine?

The parts were pulled from a point blank machine that had a monitor that was rolling. I worked with the owner to try and get the monitor to cooperate but it wouldn't. We were able to turn the machine on, get the game going so that I could see it worked, and guns were tested only to the point where I could tell the screen was indicating some response and all the sound was working.

My cabinet apparantly did not have a test switch wired up. I was going to run the test wire to a normal arcade button to enter test mode after work. Also, another thing I thought of was that the point blank cabinet had its monitor on its back and was displayed to the players with a mirror.

My cabinet is the old golden tee cab with the monitor angled slightly back. I'll try using test mode to calibrate the guns once I get home to see if that helps.

Also, when you say "clean the crt" are you saying to simply clean the screen or something else? When you say clean the optics are you simply saying clean the exterior lens or open the guns up?

I will try using test mode to calibrate the guns and report back.
 
Yes clean means just that, Gun games require a non dusty, non grimy crt and the optics in the guns clean.

as for the angle on the monitor that may cause you a problem, may not.
 
I got home and wired up the test and service switches. It only allowed me to access the gun calibration test by switching the two dip switches on the pcb and keeping the service switch set to on.

At the calibration test screen it had two arrows and instructed me to aim the gun at the "dot" between the arrows. Now I don't know if the "dot" in quotes like that meant that the dot was the hypothetical space between the two arrows, or if I was actually supposed to see a dot, which I did not. I aimed the gun between the arrows, fired a few shots, to which 3 letters that resembled changing initials on the bottom of the screen would change, but that was all.

I tried this test two ways: first by running the test, then turning off the machine, taking the pcb out of the 6 in 1 switch and switching the dip switches back, and the other was simply by leaving the machine on the whole time and switching the dips back into place to disengage the gun calibration test.

On both efforts the results were poor. Neither time did I see a dot, and neither time did the game respond to my shots at the screen.

Is it possible some wire to the guns is not properly hooked up? Is it possible that the 6 in 1 switch is resulting in a grounding problem with the game? Is there another wire I need to jump to?

When doing this I wiped down the monitor (WG 25K7191) and wiped down the exterior of the gun lenses.

Your continued help is appreciated.

Eta I also noticed some grounding pins that a gator clamp could attach to on the pcb. I didn't see anything connected to them on the dedicated cab, but thought I'd mention it.
 
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I think it is the sync on your monitor is the problem. Let me see if i can find that info again...


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OK try using H sync only and nothing to V sync
 
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I'll see if that helps when I get home.

I did make a discovery this morning. I found that the gun controls actually had a total of 4 separate grounding wires. I took the time to ground them all and I was able to see the shots appear on the screen. However, when I moved the guns the point where the shots appeared did not change. I also noticed that the blue gun produced a red shot and vice versa which leads my to believe the control panel wiring is hooked up backwards.

I didn't have time to switch the wiring this morning, I'll do it after work.

I did enter the gun sight calibration mode with the wiring as it was to see if a difference occurred. One gun performed the similar to before. I aimed in the center of the arrows and shot, except this time it automtically went to the previous screen.

The other gun when I pulled the trigger showed a dot in the lower right hand corner. when I held the trigger down the dot would float only slightly toward the center and then stop before ever reaching it. The dot's movement did not bear any relationship to what I was doing with the gun either.

I will switch the wiring out and run the test again. If that doesn't work I will mess with the sync.
 
I did make a discovery this morning. I found that the gun controls actually had a total of 4 separate grounding wires.

4 per gun or 4 total? there should only be 2 per gun, one goes to the dc ground of the primary power supply and the other goes to the 24v ground. the +24v and its ground should not be required for the gun to work, that is for the recoil
 
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