i86time
Well-known member
Adding a -5v Auxiliary board to a speech mod'd UDOT
If you're going to use the -5V board, you no longer need a switching power supply and can run everything from the linear PS and -5V aux board. These -5V Auxiliary boards aren't all that common, but if you can get one it will clean up the inside of your UDOT with the S&T mod. If you can't find one, it appears the board is a relatively simple circuit with readily available parts (3 caps, 2 diodes, 2 headers and 1 voltage regulator/heatsink combo), so you could always try to make your own.
What you will need (aside from what you already need for the S&T mod):
Bally/Midway -5V Auxiliary board (p/n A084-91631-B000)
4 position kk .156 housing and pins (-5V Aux J1)
3 position .084 Amp socket set and pins (only need the male end, but Bob Roberts sells a pair w/ pins, -5V Aux J2)
3 extra .084 Amp pins
2 .187 piggyback spade connectors (unless the F4 and F5 fuse holders on your power chassis already have them)
2 .187 insulated quick disconnects (for the piggyback spades)
wire strippers, cutters, crimpers and if you do it the way I do, either a .084 pin removal tool or the smallest precision flathead screwdriver you can find
7 strands of wire (I think I used 18 ga), length depends on where you mount the S&T and -5V Aux boards.
Many thanks to don1400 for helping out with some pics. You never know if there could be an error in the manual/schematics (there wasn't in this case), so pics of a working setup are always helpful.
If you have not already done so, familiarize yourself with the original threads on the Squawk & Talk and installing it into a UDOT:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=137680
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=167126
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=63259
They did all the heavy lifting getting this concept to work properly. The only thing missing from them is the use of the -5V Aux board. Before completing that lions share of the project and moving on to this, read this guide. It will save you a bit of time. Diagram it all out and you'll see how easy it is. Basically you'll first need to fabricate the 5 wire strand that connects the SSIO board to the S&T J1 connector (pins 1-4,8) and the wire with the capactior/resistor combo with the jump on connects to the SSIO and either the wire short or potentiometer for the speech volume. The remaining power connections are addressed in this guide.
The S&T needs a +5V supply, -5V and 2 (or 3) grounds. To feed it the +5V, remove a +5V output pin from the power supply J5 connector pin 4. Then cut the pin off, add the extra length of wire for the S&T and crimp a new .084 Amp pin around both wires and re-insert to the connector. You could also use wire taps if you want. The other end of that wire gets a .156 pin and goes to J1 pin 5. This is the solid red wire in the pics. For the first ground, attach a .084 Amp pin to a length of wire and insert into the power supply J5 pin 8. On the other end attach a .156 pin and insert into S&T J1 pin 6. This is the solid black wire in the pics.
The -5V Aux board requires an input to convert to -5V. This comes from the +8V unregulated output of F4 and F5 on the power chassis (pic 2). To 2 strands of wire, connect the .187 insulated quick disconnects. Connect these to the piggyback spade connectors your and these to F4 and F5 fuse holders. To the other end of these wires connect two .156 pins. Insert these into pins 1 and 2 of the 4 position KK .156 housing. This connects to J1 on the -5V Aux board. These are the solid pink-ish wires in the pics.
The -5V for the S&T comes out of pin 1 on the -5v Aux board. Attach a .084 Amp pin to a length of wire and insert into J2 pin 1. To the other end attach a .156 pin and insert into the pin 9 of J1 on the S&T. This is the solid white wire in the pics. The -5V Aux board also needs a ground from the power supply. Attach a .084 Amp pin to a length of wire and insert into J5 pin 7. On the other end attach a .084 Amp pin and insert into the 3 position male connector pin 3. This is the solid green wire in the pics. For the other ground (to the S&T) attach a .084 Amp pin to a length of wire and insert into pin 2 of J2. To the other end attach a .156 pin and insert into the S&T J1 pin 14. This is the black/red wire in the pics.
Complete the remaining steps as outlined in the other threads: attaching either a short or potentiometer wired to pins 4 and 5 on S&T J2, the capacitor/resistor combo to a wire attached to S&T J2 pin 9, which attaches to the jump on points on the SSIO and a ground on J2 pin 10. This should be optional as all grounds are in circuit on the S&T and two are already connected to J1. I did so just for completeness by wiretapping the ground on J1 pin 6. There you have it, a 'clean' S&T install for a UDOT, no switcher necessary.
If you're going to use the -5V board, you no longer need a switching power supply and can run everything from the linear PS and -5V aux board. These -5V Auxiliary boards aren't all that common, but if you can get one it will clean up the inside of your UDOT with the S&T mod. If you can't find one, it appears the board is a relatively simple circuit with readily available parts (3 caps, 2 diodes, 2 headers and 1 voltage regulator/heatsink combo), so you could always try to make your own.
What you will need (aside from what you already need for the S&T mod):
Bally/Midway -5V Auxiliary board (p/n A084-91631-B000)
4 position kk .156 housing and pins (-5V Aux J1)
3 position .084 Amp socket set and pins (only need the male end, but Bob Roberts sells a pair w/ pins, -5V Aux J2)
3 extra .084 Amp pins
2 .187 piggyback spade connectors (unless the F4 and F5 fuse holders on your power chassis already have them)
2 .187 insulated quick disconnects (for the piggyback spades)
wire strippers, cutters, crimpers and if you do it the way I do, either a .084 pin removal tool or the smallest precision flathead screwdriver you can find
7 strands of wire (I think I used 18 ga), length depends on where you mount the S&T and -5V Aux boards.
Many thanks to don1400 for helping out with some pics. You never know if there could be an error in the manual/schematics (there wasn't in this case), so pics of a working setup are always helpful.
If you have not already done so, familiarize yourself with the original threads on the Squawk & Talk and installing it into a UDOT:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=137680
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=167126
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=63259
They did all the heavy lifting getting this concept to work properly. The only thing missing from them is the use of the -5V Aux board. Before completing that lions share of the project and moving on to this, read this guide. It will save you a bit of time. Diagram it all out and you'll see how easy it is. Basically you'll first need to fabricate the 5 wire strand that connects the SSIO board to the S&T J1 connector (pins 1-4,8) and the wire with the capactior/resistor combo with the jump on connects to the SSIO and either the wire short or potentiometer for the speech volume. The remaining power connections are addressed in this guide.
The S&T needs a +5V supply, -5V and 2 (or 3) grounds. To feed it the +5V, remove a +5V output pin from the power supply J5 connector pin 4. Then cut the pin off, add the extra length of wire for the S&T and crimp a new .084 Amp pin around both wires and re-insert to the connector. You could also use wire taps if you want. The other end of that wire gets a .156 pin and goes to J1 pin 5. This is the solid red wire in the pics. For the first ground, attach a .084 Amp pin to a length of wire and insert into the power supply J5 pin 8. On the other end attach a .156 pin and insert into S&T J1 pin 6. This is the solid black wire in the pics.
The -5V Aux board requires an input to convert to -5V. This comes from the +8V unregulated output of F4 and F5 on the power chassis (pic 2). To 2 strands of wire, connect the .187 insulated quick disconnects. Connect these to the piggyback spade connectors your and these to F4 and F5 fuse holders. To the other end of these wires connect two .156 pins. Insert these into pins 1 and 2 of the 4 position KK .156 housing. This connects to J1 on the -5V Aux board. These are the solid pink-ish wires in the pics.
The -5V for the S&T comes out of pin 1 on the -5v Aux board. Attach a .084 Amp pin to a length of wire and insert into J2 pin 1. To the other end attach a .156 pin and insert into the pin 9 of J1 on the S&T. This is the solid white wire in the pics. The -5V Aux board also needs a ground from the power supply. Attach a .084 Amp pin to a length of wire and insert into J5 pin 7. On the other end attach a .084 Amp pin and insert into the 3 position male connector pin 3. This is the solid green wire in the pics. For the other ground (to the S&T) attach a .084 Amp pin to a length of wire and insert into pin 2 of J2. To the other end attach a .156 pin and insert into the S&T J1 pin 14. This is the black/red wire in the pics.
Complete the remaining steps as outlined in the other threads: attaching either a short or potentiometer wired to pins 4 and 5 on S&T J2, the capacitor/resistor combo to a wire attached to S&T J2 pin 9, which attaches to the jump on points on the SSIO and a ground on J2 pin 10. This should be optional as all grounds are in circuit on the S&T and two are already connected to J1. I did so just for completeness by wiretapping the ground on J1 pin 6. There you have it, a 'clean' S&T install for a UDOT, no switcher necessary.
