Addams Family Generator my only pickup in 2017

MrSinister

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Donor 9 years: 2015-2022, 2024
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Picked this up today minutes from my house. It's partly working. Both motors in the handles are good but sound like they're palm sanders. One motor controller board is bad with a blown fuse. Haven't dug any deeper into that.

Solid cabinet, but has the usual smoke not working and printer missing.

There is so little information on these. Can anyone tell me where to source new bearings for the motors?

I'm also missing the topper and have no leads on this. If anyone is willing to get a high res scan of it I'd gladly pay them for their time.
 

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Are you talking about bearings for the handles or the motors ?

If your motors are shot you are out of luck. I can help you with
most of everything else though.

JD
 
Oh, God, Altai speakers.

I remember Altai electronics from when I was still in Ireland. IIRC, they were Soviet-made and quality control was nonexistent. Anything I ever had from them was not exactly reliable.

Personal favourite: the multivolt AC-to-DC adapter that had selectable output voltage from 3VDC to 12VDC in 1.5VDC steps. At 3VDC, it was pretty much spot-on. At 12VDC, it was outputting somewhere in the region of 20VDC. The further up the scale you went, the progressively less-accurate the value on the switch was.

Then again, those speakers look to be made in Taiwan, so there's possibly hope for them.

Hijack over.
 
So I have static and noise through the right speaker and nothing out of the right. Sounds like a data east pin during attract mode. Just noticed when removing the battery the 5v and 12v LEDs are not on. Checked all the traces and can't figure this out right now.

Pulled the battery and of course it leaked. I replaced it with a cordless phone battery.
 

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Take a close look at the audio section on the CPU board for damaged traces. If there was a leak, the fog juice would drip right on the audio section of the board.
 
I found the schematics in my archive. Those amp IC's had high failure rates.

Usually what I do is find the audio input pin pin the IC. Use an amplified speaker,
ground one side of the input and connect the other side to the pin of the IC. If
the sound is working you've narrowed it down.

Also, the input pin of an amp is almost always connected to a cap. Check the
signal before the cap as they fail also.

JD

So I have static and noise through the right speaker and nothing out of the right. Sounds like a data east pin during attract mode. Just noticed when removing the battery the 5v and 12v LEDs are not on. Checked all the traces and can't figure this out right now.

Pulled the battery and of course it leaked. I replaced it with a cordless phone battery.
 
I found the schematics in my archive. Those amp IC's had high failure rates.

Usually what I do is find the audio input pin pin the IC. Use an amplified speaker,
ground one side of the input and connect the other side to the pin of the IC. If
the sound is working you've narrowed it down.




JD


John do you remember which one's you used?
That partial schematic states tda1415 but the pcb is screen printed tda 1514.
 
I can check tomorrow at work. I have a spare board around somewhere.

John do you remember which one's you used?
That partial schematic states tda1415 but the pcb is screen printed tda 1514.
 
I believe my schematics are complete, it's 8 pages and includes
the cabinet wiring.
 
John I have a schematic, but it doesn't show the connections near the battery. Basically I'm unsure of what voltages should be at the connector and where the traces run from it.

The leaking battery was next to this so this is where I am focusing.
 
Another picture of the area. Second pic is the solder side of the audio amps. Bad solder job with trace damage here as well.
 

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Looks like you have a lot of acid damage (common with this board).

The schematic shows the battery connected to a MAX691 supervisory IC. The
IC is controlling the RESET and BLANKING circuit so removing the battery shuts
the whole thing down (explaining your LEDs).

As I mentioned before, I would start with an amplified speaker. There are (2) 2.2uf caps
near U3 (TDA1624). I can't make out the part #'s, looks like C92 and C93 but may be C32
and C33. These are the audio inputs. Connect the ground lead of your amplified speaker input
to ground, and the signal to the negative side of each cap, one at a time. If you are
getting sound then you know the problem is in the mixer or amplifier section and it
will be far easier to troubleshoot.

And the amps on my board are TDA1514A, not TDA1415 as in the schematic.

JD


Another picture of the area. Second pic is the solder side of the audio amps. Bad solder job with trace damage here as well.
 
Looks like you have a lot of acid damage (common with this board).

The schematic shows the battery connected to a MAX691 supervisory IC. The
IC is controlling the RESET and BLANKING circuit so removing the battery shuts
the whole thing down (explaining your LEDs).

As I mentioned before, I would start with an amplified speaker. There are (2) 2.2uf caps
near U3 (TDA1624). I can't make out the part #'s, looks like C92 and C93 but may be C32
and C33. These are the audio inputs. Connect the ground lead of your amplified speaker input
to ground, and the signal to the negative side of each cap, one at a time. If you are
getting sound then you know the problem is in the mixer or amplifier section and it
will be far easier to troubleshoot.

And the amps on my board are TDA1514A, not TDA1415 as in the schematic.

JD
John this great info. I should probably check that the max691 is getting power from the battery. Or if I need to solder the positive wire to both solder pads on pcb. I'll dig into this.

I'll also check the audio the way you explained it.
 
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