AD cabaret monitor blowing F1 in power brick

JC Arcade

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A few months back my AD cabaret was playing fine then one day the monitor (WG 15V2000) stopped working. Didn't hear a noise or anything, just got no image. Game played blind, no spot killer on the deflection board.

Finally had some time to revisit the problem this weekend and pulled out the monitor and found both F100 and F101 fuses blown. Replaced them with the appropriate 5A SB fuses, fired up the game and zzzt, blew the F1 7 amp fuse in the power brick. Replaced F1, unplugged monitor, turned machine on it plays blind again.

Decided to put the AD monitor aside and try an Electrohome G05-805 that came with my project BZ cabaret. It has some collapse I need to deal with, but would suffice to help narrow down the problem. Turned it on and see the game on the screen (with the collapse of course).

So now to figure out what's causing the WG to blow that F1. At worst I was expecting the F100 and F101 fuses to blow again, but they didn't. I should add, when I blew the F1 on the power brick, I had the monitor out of the machine and was using a monitor extension cable. I did NOT use the extension cable when I got the Electrohome to work.

Any suggestions on what to check first? I was going to try without the extension cable, but I've got one 7A fuse left so figured I would ask for input before I did.
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F1 input fuse will open if:

1. bridge rectifier has shorted diode inside
2. BigBlue is short
3. Other short on any winding / connector

Most likely #1. <all related to the power brick>
 
I'm assuming the bridge rectifier on the deflection board and not the power brick? Power brick seemed to work okay with the second monitor.
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It's a 12 pin B&W vector extension harness that one of our fellow KLOV'rs makes. Checked continuity and everything seems pinned correctly.
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The monitor is powered by the 60VAC windings.
If F1 does not blow when the monitor is disconnected, then I would agree the BW XY chassis is at fault.
I would ohm out the power input on the monitor and diode check the bridge and the bulk caps.

If F1 on the brick is a 7A fast blow and the fuses on the deflection board are 5A slow blow, then it may be possible that F1 will open first.
 
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