Acquired a 13ft skeeball (a disassembled model S I think), could use some direction...

Are these real wood skeeballs meant to be played on this machine in this ebay ad?
I already have 5 that look like this:
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@mhcapps, is a like the same as a yes? Lol.
I really need get some more (i'm refraining from saying balls, because no matter how i phrase it with that term in a sentence, it sounds kinda wrong)

Also installed Rob from Khars optical switch setup. Should have went easy, like 15 minutes, but the ball count kept adding 10 points. Turns out, someone must have replaced a connector that goes to the main board and reversed 2 wires, which is fine for switches, but not for his setup. Pin 12 should not have been a black wire.
My guess judging by my kids complaining is that a microswitch was missing a ball, roughly every 30-50 throws. It would appear this is going to end the whining.
 
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I bought 5 of those balls, the more you buy the better the discount so it wasn't so bad. Hopefully they match good, if not i'm sure my kids can piss me off by throwing them all over the yard.

Also, the khars switch kit starting giving me a little trouble. The ball count was adding 10 points once in a while. It has lights on the little board that tells whether activating 10 points or ball count and only ball count was lighting. So I emailed Rob and he quickly gave me a really technical response with a handful of ways to solve the problem.
In short, the micro usb cable needs to be Charging Only, not data. I couldn't find one that was only data at my house, so the quickest easiest solution was to slit the usb wire open and cut the white. Which appears to work.
I was impatient (the website says 2 day delay for kit) so i figured i would just use my own because i wanted the display kit by last Friday. But maybe if you are going to purchase, buy the kit, it's not so simple on amazon to figure out which cable doesn't do data.

Before i did the switches, i sanded and painted the bar that holds them, i used Gloss gray from walmart (my wife has walmart plus). Came out pretty good. I was tempted to armoral the rubber, it's cleaner in person than in pics, but i figured the balls would pick it up and make a mess.
Next up is adding permanent power, wiring for a switch up front on the machine and organizing the rest of the wiring. Since i'm an electrical contractor, should be fairly easy, i will likely use Gray UF wire, since it's quite a bit tougher to damage.

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Thats looking good. Those 13 footers are the best if you have the room.
I have a drop ceiling in my basement, so I was unable to install the dome lamp.
You guys are going to have so much fun playing that when your done.
 
So i received the balls from ebay, 4 are good, one is some kind of composite repro. Hopefully they don't give me any trouble sending another. Glad i bought 5 when i only needed 4.

Added an outlet in the back box with a cord plugged in the wall. Then ran a piece of UF to the front and installed a box and switch under kickplate. It doesn't interfere with your feet. I know arcade stuff doesn't always use boxes for 120v, but as an electrician i prefer it that way, especially with stuff made of wood. While i'm not going around reinventing the wheel, any time i mess with something custom, it gets a box. I used a method of wiring called salt and pepper or up on white back on black, where you only use one wire with two current carrying conductors with a ground and you tie the power from the wall to the white wire, then it gets send to the switch and when you turn the switch on it sends the power back to the outlet. This is how switched outlets were done in your house back in the day. These days we don't do it because smart switches and some dimmers need the neutral at the switch.
UF wire is tough, it's tough to strip and hard to damage. I left a longer loop where the cab meets the lane, because i need a solution there small enough to fit through the holes and be undone if i have to move it.
It's really nice to be able to turn it on like the rest of my machines.
Also added some 3000k par20 led bulbs, they are short and point at the lane well and fit in the sockets without removing any screws. Home depot had them cheaper than amazon for a pair.

I'll tidy up all the wires and straps after i paint the outside this weekend.

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So here's a pic of the coin mech holder for JB to see if it matches the coin mech he has for me.
Also, added some keyless locks, the keys always go MIA at my house. For the lane lock, i just lowered the bracket to even with wood, fit perfect, for the coin side, i just added a spacer and used a grinder to grind out a slot.
Finished filling and painted the whole thing, the paint i was given (and one side of the backbox was done it) was way off. Too light and to orangish. There was a peeling chuck from in between the lane and backbox, how depot matched it pretty good.
Added T molding.
Also the bulb in the ticket dispenser is 12v. With that said, it spent a week with a 5v pinball bulb and worked fine, didn't even get real hot. I had a green 12v from a car gauge, so i swapped that in. It does indeed go out if i press the ticket holder button.

Still need lower marquee bracket (which is just flat plastic). I will probably just buy some 1in flat stock and make my own and paint it.
Missing all screws, need to get some screw cups and wood screws. (measured the cups are 5/8 wide to cover marks from the old ones).
The metal plate for the ticket dispenser also needs to be stripped and painted and get a new decal.

I have no doubt at this point that this game will be the most played game ever at my house.

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