accidently broke vacuum seal on monitor

Chainclaw

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Hi, I have a Data East cabinet and I just accidently elbowed the circuit board on the end of the monitor, breaking the vacuum seal. This sucks because I just bought a pair of new boards (B Rap Boys and Tinkle Pit) and barely have had a chance to play them.

What are my options? Is repair possible? If not, is getting a replacement monitor reasonable? By that I mean, how can I find a replacement monitor, will the price be cheap, and how is installation?

I would hate to have to replace the cab entirely, getting it up the stairs into my apartment really sucked.
 
A tube swap from a TV is quite a bit of work and you will need to find a donor. It's relatively inexpensive though. Another option is to keep an eye out on Craigslist and find an arcade game with the same size monitor and buy it for dirt cheap and swap the monitor in.

Just make sure you test out the game first to be sure the monitor is working. You don't care if the game board in the new game plays perfect but it will need to display a good picture so that you can judge the picture quality.
 
Dont forget about my guide-for-finding-a-used-tv-for-tube-swappin using the link in my sig. There's actually a tube swap guide on the page as well, but I never finished proofing it yet.

OP - where are you located? Maybe someone nearby has a cheap monitor you can buy.
 
Dont forget about my guide-for-finding-a-used-tv-for-tube-swappin using the link in my sig. There's actually a tube swap guide on the page as well, but I never finished proofing it yet.

OP - where are you located? Maybe someone nearby has a cheap monitor you can buy.

I'm waiting for the yoke swap section before i try my first one.
 
I'm in the Seattle area. Thanks for the info, guys. How much would a monitor cost me? Functional cabs go for less than $200 on Craigslist in the area so often (this cab cost me $80), I might have to just toss out the old cab and get a new one (I play NEO, CPS2, and other similar JAMMA games on it).
 
That's kind of like tossing out a car because you hit a curb and screwed up a rim. Dead monitors happen in this hobby. If you're not inclined to do a tube swap (I'm not), pull the monitor, sell the chassis, and put the cash toward a decent used monitor. If you are patient, I'll bet you can find a decent monitor with a dead chassis, saving even more $$$ and keeping some stuff out of the arcade graveyard.
 
Replacing the picture tube isn't as hard as you'd think. You haven't mentioned what kind of monitor it is, but if it's a K7000, they seem to be really compatible with most TV yokes I've found. Last couple I did I didn't even have to swap yokes.

Basically, find a TV set of the same screen size. Drive around on garbage night, shouldn't be too hard to find a couple. Then take the back cover off the set - you're looking for one with the same size neck connector. If it matches, then you have a good chance of being able to use it. Then disconnect the yoke from the TV's chassis and measure the DC resistance of the horizontal and vertical windings, and compare it to the readings from your game monitor's tube. If the readings are within an ohm or two, you should be good. If they're different, you'll have to swap the yokes between the tubes. Mark the position of the convergence rings on the TV's tube, pull them off and remove the yoke. Put the yoke from the monitor's tube on the TV tube, and put the TV's convergence rings back on. Fire everything up and adjust the position of the yoke and the convergecne rings to fine-tune the picture.

-Ian
 
I'll try swapping the tube then. I had just figured that because arcade cabs are so cheap and available it would be one of those cases where the cost of repairs in time and money is way more than just getting another cab.

I guess I'll build another supergun for use at home in the mean time or something so I'm not as antsy about replacing this.
 
I've been busy and it's hard to find time to dedicate to getting this arcade cabinet fixed. Anyways, I was reading that http://www.junknet.net/donor-tvs page, and I don't quite understand what I'm looking for on my monitor. It looks like I should be finding a code starting with CR, but I couldn't find one anywhere.

Here's a bunch of pictures, maybe one of you guys can help?
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/Xieflow/BrokenMonitor/

Model Nomber 19k7602
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/Xieflow/BrokenMonitor/IMG_0159.jpg

Chassis Serial WG 200375
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/Xieflow/BrokenMonitor/IMG_0158.jpg

MV A48ABK05X
+ a few other numbers I can't get an angle on good enough to read, but it doesn't look like any start with CR.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/Xieflow/BrokenMonitor/IMG_0157.jpg

If I have time today I'll try and swing by a few value villages and see if I can find some 19" TVs.
 
The A48ABK05X is the number you need to be concerned with.

First thing when looking for a donor tube is to match the "48" part of the number. That number determines the "size" of the tube. (48 centimeters=18.8976 " , in other words a 19")
Some 19" tv's will actually have a 20" tube, so absolutely match those numbers.

The second thing you need to do is look that number up in a guide such as (google CRT_Setup_Chart) which is where you will find the CR # to match. (yours is a CR31)
This CR number is the neck socket size and pinout.
 
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Yep, that's a CR31 neck. It's 8 pins, commonly called a 'thin neck' tube.

Here's a link to the B&K rejuvenator setup guide. In this guide, there's a chart showing a good listing of most tubes made, and their corresponding heater voltage, as well as their CRT socket type. That tube, an A48ABK05X, is listed on the chart. It uses a standard heater voltage, 6.3 volts. It's a CR31 socket.

http://www.bkprecision.com/support/downloads/pdfs/CRT_Setup_Chart.pdf


Start scouring craigslist for 19" TV's. Ask the sellers (or givers, as the case may be) if they can tell you the 'A48' number inside the vents on the tube. Ask nicely, and most folks are willing to oblige.

Careful, though. I'm on the hunt for another CR31 donor TV (flubbed my first attempt at a swap), and I'm not having much luck. Most free or really cheap 19" TV's I'm finding are CR23's which are showing up on TV's made from the mid '90's and later. The one TV I found that was made before 1990 was the 1 CR31 I've found. You're going to be looking for an OLD TV.

Get a matching tube and socket, and you're 99% there. The last hurdle is to make sure the yoke isn't bonded. That way if the TV's yoke doesn't work with your chassis, you can swap yokes.
 
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Maybe i'll be looked at as a heretic on here for saying this, but may I recommend an LCD Upgrade?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giqKPaHM_3I

19" tubes are a thing of the past and getting harder and harder to service and find good tubes. an LCD upgrade, if your not too picky, is a great alternative, runs cooler and draws less power, and are easily replaceable if it burns out. Any 19" PC monitor would do. Youd have to most likely redesign a bezel and jimmy-rig mount the LCD in your cab, but ones it all set up, it will work with any game.

You can pick those boards up at www.arcademvs.com for around $50 i believe.

Good luck either way.
 
Yeah the "CR" codes are for the B&K rejuvenator sockets, basically a way to reference what size/pinout the neck is. There really is no other great way to reference it. You look up your existing tube in the rejuvenator handbook, see what CR code it is, then get look at my list and find a compatible tube thats the same size (number starting with A48 or 19) and neck (same CR code).

The purpose of the list on Junknet is a datbase of known-good donor tvs. Print it out or bookmark it (I'm hoping to have it in a better format sooner or later), and take it with you to garage sales, thrift shops, etc. If you find a TV with that make/model number or close, you may have a winner!

It also helps that if you are shopping thrift shops, get a cheapo LED flashlight to peer through the vents - you can usually read the tube number and led flashlights seem to work well for that purpose.

Jeff



I've been busy and it's hard to find time to dedicate to getting this arcade cabinet fixed. Anyways, I was reading that http://www.junknet.net/donor-tvs page, and I don't quite understand what I'm looking for on my monitor. It

looks like I should be finding a code starting with CR, but I couldn't find one anywhere.

Here's a bunch of pictures, maybe one of you guys can help?
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/Xieflow/BrokenMonitor/

Model Nomber 19k7602
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/Xieflow/BrokenMonitor/IMG_0159.jpg

Chassis Serial WG 200375
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/Xieflow/BrokenMonitor/IMG_0158.jpg

MV A48ABK05X
+ a few other numbers I can't get an angle on good enough to read, but it doesn't look like any start with CR.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/Xieflow/BrokenMonitor/IMG_0157.jpg

If I have time today I'll try and swing by a few value villages and see if I can find some 19" TVs.
 
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