Accidentally touched remote board to ground, now clicking

doodlesdaddy

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Accidentally touched remote board to ground, now clicking

Time Crisis...... was adjusting remote board, dialed picture in really nice, then went to put remote board back into its holder behind the coin door. Dropped it, and the back of it, where all the solder connections are, touched the coin box metal area. Monitor went out, and now makes a clicking noise from the yellow transformer. searching threads I cannot get a straight answer. Help!!!

Well Gardner K7000, 25-27 inch.

Of course it was working fine till I started messing with it
 
Ive been checking the WG site, I guess its a U5000, because it has a plug that can be swtiched to make it standard or medium res, either way, I read an old post about a monitor clicking from the yellow transformer, but no solution was given. I have another identical monitor, but it doesnt do anything. should I attempt to steal parts off of it? Im not really good a t soldering, but I have done a cap kit before. I just dont wanna go replacing parts that arnt neccesary. The picture was absolutely perfect, so it doesnt need a cap kit.

Any input appreciated
 
The clicking means you tripped the watchdog, you obviouslly blew something, like said check the HOT transistor and diodes listed in the the troubleshooting on WG website.
 
Yes, the clicking means the power supply in the monitor is shutting itself down over and over again because when it comes up, something is shorted. Once it sees that, it resets, click, click, click, click. You'll have to check all the major parts on the board to see if they're shorted, like the Hot, the vertical i.c., etc.
 
Well, being a U5000, it's probably only the HOT that went. The horizontal oscillator on the dual-res monitors is sensitive, and thing like you describe can easily blow the HOT, which presents itself as a clicking noise. the same thing can happen by running it too long in the wrong resolution mode or by switching the resolution select plug with the monitor on.

You can check it if you wish by putting your meter on diode check and putting the black lead on the center leg and the red lead on each of the outer legs. A short means it's bad. it should be a 2SC3688 transistor...
 
I defer to Modessitt's superior experience with these things :) I hope it's just your hot, and you're able to get her back up and running soon... and I'm sure you can always send it to Mod for a looksie if you don't get it going.
 
Thanks Mod. My research has yielded the same conclusion. Gonna order a new HOT today. I have another u5000 that is completely dead, but its geting the 120 vac and the fuse is good. I might just get a new hot for it to

Thanks again. Ill report back hopefully with a fixed monitor after th HOT installatiOn
 
You can check it if you wish by putting your meter on diode check and putting the black lead on the center leg and the red lead on each of the outer legs. A short means it's bad. it should be a 2SC3688 transistor...

Is the current HOT part number "2SC3688"?
I have 4 with 2SC3686 and 1 with 2SC3687.
I couldn't find the 3686 at Mouser, figured maybe obsolete?


Thanks Mod. My research has yielded the same conclusion. Gonna order a new HOT today. I have another u5000 that is completely dead, but its geting the 120 vac and the fuse is good. I might just get a new hot for it to

Thanks again. Ill report back hopefully with a fixed monitor after th HOT installatiOn


Did you test the HOT with a meter to confirm it (they) are bad?
Just be sure to get the little insulator pad reinstalled if you replace it! :D


I may have done the same thing, I had a U5000 chassis that worked great.
One day I flipped the machine on and smelled the magic smoke.
Looked behind the machine and the remote board had fallen and was resting on the pedal assembly.
Anyway, I am currently confirming updates on all my five chassis's, I found R760 had burned up on my dead board and was measuring in the MegaOhms not 470Kohms.
Mine is NOT ticking though, just dead.

My HOT is measuring as OK per Mod's check method.
I still need to look for a short past the R760 to see what pulled the power and burned it.

I'll be following you situation close as it may help me out!
BTW, if you have a burnt looking L103, check my thread on that.
Found a replacement part that is very close, but beefier.
 
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Ok, good news.
I had gotten three games at the same time, all various forms of death. Another one was a Total Vice, with a completely dead monitor. It is also a U5000, so I stole the HOT from it, and guess what? The Time Crisis monitor is back up and running. I then discovered, via the standard-medium res plug, that it was on medium res. Powered down, switched the plug, and alas, Time Crisis is up. Dialed picture in, all good. The recoil gun for Time Crisis is missing its guts, so cant play it.
so, I checked KLOV, and it says Total Vice is standard resolution, but wait, the monitor I just took out of it was set to medium res, hmmmmmmmm. so, I hooked Total Vice up to my now working monitor, and it is up, but showing multiple images. Sure sign of a medium res image being displayed on a standard res monitor. Powered down again, switched the standard-medium res plug, and powered back up. Now Total vice is up and running. Had to change the yoke plug to flip the image, and then calibrate the guns, and it is working 100%!!!!!!
So, Time Crisis needs a recoil gun, or at least the opto, which are silly expensive. Total Vice is now ready for restoration. It is in a nice cabinet, marquee great, instruction card great, but there is no side art. Its also missing the marquee light, but should be a fun project. Its a really fun game too, gonna probably be a keeper for awhile.

to sum up,
Moddesit was right on, HOT had blown when remote board was accidentally grounded up.
KLOV has Total Vice incorrectly listed as standard resolution, it is medium resolution.

thanks for the help and guidance......now to figure out whats up with the other U5000, other then it definetely needing a new HOT cause I stole it!!! (I have some HOTs on order)
 
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