A little help with my monitor- CPS2

vipe155

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I have an X-MEN COTA cps2 cab that needs some kind of capacitor work. I have this odd black line thing going on:

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp55/vipe155/IMG_0891.jpg

I'm trying to figure out what kind of monitor I have so that I can see what parts it needs. The monitor is one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...Category=13718&_trkparms=algo=LVI&its=I&otn=2

So far I haven't found any cap kits or anything that helps me figure out what to do with this game. I would appreciate any information anyone here has.
 
rookie mistake. you really only have the tube type. different TV manufacturers supplied tubes to video game monitor companies, so they're really not relevant at all.

take a picture of the actual board the hooks up to the tube. the biggest board is called the deflection board, that's where all the main circuitry is located, then there's a smaller board that plugs into the tube's neck socket, appropriately called a neckboard. some monitors do or don't have another board for the monitor adjustments (width, height, vertical position, vertical hold, horizontal position, brightness, contrast, etc.) called the remote adjustment board -- in other cases these controls will be located on the deflection board instead.

taking pictures of these will help us identify what kind of monitor chassis you have, which you can then take the next step of ordering a capkit for and installing it.

your problem looks like jailbars, which is symptomatic of a cap-related problem. I can't particularly explain why that is or what exactly causes it, though I'm sure it has something to do with the horizontal circuitry.

I just rebuilt (essentially) my WG K7000 the other day and although I have 3 lines like what you have, though fainter and thinner, the colors and overall picture quality actually improved on mine. so sometimes caps can make a huge difference. I still have a little more tinkering to do on it.

I can't really narrow down which brand of chassis you have based on the RCA tube, cause I've seen Wells-Gardner monitors and Hantarex monitors both use RCA tubes.
 
That's a Wells Gardner K7000. And, you have the white knob flyback too. Carefully inspect it for cracks. The flyback won't cause those lines, but it's something that could fail rather "eventfully"...

I would start by doing a cap kit. This is a pretty easy monitor to work on, especially since it's already basically working. Under the chassis you may see some modification wires - leave these alone if present - they're factory and poorly documented.

-Ian
 
as the spokesman for the Save the K7000s Foundation, do not turn that thing on again until you replace the flyback. it truly can go at any moment, go read my thread and particularly look at the pictures for visual aids. lol :)

your chassis looks exactly like mine I just fixed. so take heed.

the K7000 albeit easy to work on has several parts that you have to remove to get at everything you need to change out (in the case of a rebuild like mine). but in your case you're probably only looking at caps and just a preventative maintenance replacement of the flyback, cause when those go bad, they cook everything on these. there's not a whole lot of caps to change out, half the battle is scraping away the glue to read what cap is which, but Bob has a capmap for the K7000... I just chose to go the harder way when I did mine and made my own on the fly.

if you go through Bob you'll save a lot of money on parts, www.therealbobroberts.net, flyback and capkit together cost less than what even I can get with my special pricing at Happ.

I'm thinking that in order to remove the old flyback you're going to have to desolder the bracket the HOT mounts too, and that's not fun, I really miss my soldapult. the old flyback is tall enough to screw into that bracket... the replacement will not be.
 
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