a little bit on yellowness in my life

RonnyRage

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hey y'all.

So over the summer I completely broke my monitor by dropping a speaker on the neck tube.

arcadegamer was nice enough to help me fix the chassis and replace the tube that I broke and the monitor worked when we had it plugged in at his house but when I got back home with it, it had a yellowish tint to it that i can't adjust out.

Anyone around chicago that can help could be greatly rewarded for their time.

206df2p.jpg

this is what the monitor looks like. it has a yellowish tint.
 
Missing/low red?

And when it was fixed, was it fully capped? Looks like some jailbars there...
 
Missing/low red?

And when it was fixed, was it fully capped? Looks like some jailbars there...

No when it was fixed it wasn't fully capped, just the fuse that was blown.

the tube itself is perfect. like I said, it worked at the place i got it fixed
 
cold solder on the neckboard I'm guessing. lack of blue will give you the yellowish tint.

if you're remotely handy with a soldering iron you can probably resolve this on your own. reflow the solder joints on all the drive transistors and corresponding resistors on the neckboard and see if this fixes it. (while the monitor is off, obviously)

alternatively, a loose JAMMA pin for the video signal can also cause this. you're running MAME with it, I'm not entirely sure what your video signal connections look like with that, but ensure that your blue video signal is making it to the monitor too.

if you got a K7000 there, caps will make it look beautiful.

I'd help you out, but I don't do the city.
 
What happens when you manually degause it?

The guns be be dirty or the dirt shifted from the move to your house, or the way it was transported and a rejuv may be in order now.
 
Is the spacing between the yoke and the tube correct? Sounds like you pulled it off to do the tube conversion did you check for proper convergence once you replaced it?
 
What happens when you manually degause it?

The guns be be dirty or the dirt shifted from the move to your house, or the way it was transported and a rejuv may be in order now.


How do you do that? It was in a different metal frame when I brought it back from arcadegamer's house, so I had to switch it to the original that came with the cabinet.

@modesitt:
no it wasn't fully capped, the only thing arcadegamer found wrong was a blown fuze. Granted it probably needs cap kit, it was working when we repaired it.


@mecha
Well, I understand that you don't do city, but ha, I don't do solder. it's a good trade off (not really I should probably learn to do that).

i'd be interested in driving to wherever as long as it's near chicago. arcadegamer was just outside of milwaukee and that wasn't a problem. As for the way I have the computer hooked up to the monitor, I'm using one of those red video card boards that yourmameman uses in one of his restorations (I have 2 due to the person sending me 2 on accident)

When I go home i'm going to check for a loose pin on the jamma connecter.

Now when I adjust the drives on the back I can get full red, full green and full blue. So i don't think it's the guns. I also am pretty sure that arcadegamer put the yolk back on correctly

lastly, but not leastly, the image itself is kind of cockeyed on the screen. arcadegamer explained how to fix it, but it's dead to me now. ha.


:) I really just want to get this thing going again, I got everything else ready to go. it's just a bummer playin on a yellow tinted screen.
 
alternatively, a loose JAMMA pin for the video signal can also cause this. you're running MAME with it, I'm not entirely sure what your video signal connections look like with that, but ensure that your blue video signal is making it to the monitor too.


ftw. I just came home, and re wrapped my makeshift (hey what can i say) jamma connecter. And guess what, it was the blue connection, it wasn't even connected anymore, just loose inside the tape i wrapped around it.


now on to some screen adjustments (like getting the screen not to be tilted and across the whole monitor, i'll be in business)


anyone? I know to adjust the angle of the image you need to take the chassis off and stuff. perhaps I can do something on my computer to fix it?
 
If your image is tilted on the screen, you need to twist the yoke on the tube a bit. Just do it with the power off, then turn it on to see the effect your twisting had on it. Repeat as necessary.
 
you can rotate a yoke with the power on, I know it sounds scary as shit but I've done it on 2 monitors now. the most difficult part is getting someone to cooperate with you and use their eyes effectively to tell you when to stop, lol.

I lacked such a luxury with the Ms. Pac/Galaga I did it on first.

obviously, don't touch the copper windings on the yoke. there's plenty of plastic available for you to get your hands on to turn it.

how to do it? well if you saw the tube swap, you already know, but in case not, down by the convergence rings is a metal clip that's tightened together by a bolt with a 1/4" head. do this first with the power turned off, just loosen this bolt enough to where the yoke turns. you don't want to do it TOO LOOSE, otherwise there's a chance the yoke will slip off, cause I'm going to assume you lack the proper personnel outside of yourself to pull up the crosshatch pattern in test mode. :p

then you just turn it accordingly. if the picture's shifted clockwise from the front, you just turn the yoke very subtly clockwise from the back to straighten out the picture. optimally you want to have the horizontal and vertical sizes stretched to probably the furthest edges of the visible tube area so you have something to compare to. you may have to tinker with the horizontal positioning a few times while doing this.

it's easy to do, but difficult to do right. if you can pull the monitor out and set a mirror in front of it, you can do this all by yourself easily.

once you have the yoke in the correct position, then re-tighten the retaining clip bolt. don't OVER-tighten it though, remember that this clip is going around the tube's glass neck. :)

also worth noting, I make sure that the yoke is as far forward as it can go, because you can shift it up/down and left/right and this will create all kinds of havoc. I assume that all the metal wedges are inserted as well, these will serve as guides for how the yoke goes back into place. if that makes sense at all.
 
wellllll alrighttttyyy then.

it's incredible that this color problem has plagued me since I brought the monitor home (I knew it had to be something on my end, because I saw the monitor working before i took it) and I guess i just over looked the simplest thing, a loose connection.

i'm kind of macguyver when it comes to wire connections, I think just plain old electrical tape and some twisting is a good way to do things. Turns out that was my downfall! The tape was still wrapped around it, but the wire inside was detatched. Probably from the 50 times I unplugged the son-bitch to see what was going on.

well I guess later i'll go home and finish this badboy up. been a helluvah time with this thing. I just wish I had never broken my first one in the first place :)))


thanks mecha!
 
yeah, if you ever splice wires don't do it where the two halves of the wire are parallel to each other. I learned this the hard way over the years, lol. the ideal way to do it is to strip the wires probably an inch (or a little more) and intertwine them together. THEN you tin them with solder. then you can throw some electrical tape or heatshrink on it.

if your JAMMA harness is too hacked up (like the one I just changed out), I'd advise just replacing the whole thing. they're not cheap, but ideally you have to consider that it should last the duration of the ownership of the game at least.
 
yeah, if you ever splice wires don't do it where the two halves of the wire are parallel to each other. I learned this the hard way over the years, lol. the ideal way to do it is to strip the wires probably an inch (or a little more) and intertwine them together. THEN you tin them with solder. then you can throw some electrical tape or heatshrink on it.

if your JAMMA harness is too hacked up (like the one I just changed out), I'd advise just replacing the whole thing. they're not cheap, but ideally you have to consider that it should last the duration of the ownership of the game at least.


once this is all complete, i'll make a thread so you guys can see the handy work. ha.
 
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