a few re-cap/soldering questions ...

ok ok ok HOLLLLD THE PHONE, stop the presses ...

so i "finished" the sound amp (probably murdered it in cold blood but i guess we'll see if it works) and i'm starting the cap kit for the 20EZ

but i'm on my first cap, and immediately i see a discrepancy ... do i have the wrong kit?

i de-solder C201, i look at the values on the cap and they don't match the specs on the info sheet for the supposed appropriate cap

IMG_0629.jpg


the cap kit i have is for a "Sanyo 20-EZV (R-B, C)" what am i missing here?
 
ok ok ok HOLLLLD THE PHONE, stop the presses ...

so i "finished" the sound amp (probably murdered it in cold blood but i guess we'll see if it works) and i'm starting the cap kit for the 20EZ

but i'm on my first cap, and immediately i see a discrepancy ... do i have the wrong kit?

i de-solder C201, i look at the values on the cap and they don't match the specs on the info sheet for the supposed appropriate cap

IMG_0629.jpg


the cap kit i have is for a "Sanyo 20-EZV (R-B, C)" what am i missing here?

Just ran into this myself

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=401815
 
I am working on one of them right now. Does your sheet not tell you that C201 has been upgraded per Sanyo service bulletin from a 10uf to a 100uf?
 
Great thread. Since I will be doing one myself in about a month.

#1 glad im not the only cheap bastard on this forum.

#2 excellent link on the desolder tool. Was looking for a cheap one.
 
I am working on one of them right now. Does your sheet not tell you that C201 has been upgraded per Sanyo service bulletin from a 10uf to a 100uf?

i have only seen my cap kits that have the upgrade and EXPLAIN it so the user knows what's up. i see threads about this pop up all time because other vendors don't explain it.
 
another general question ... it looks like not every cap gets replaced on this thing

e.g. ... C202 ... i have no cap in my kit to replace it. and my kit (25 caps total) has the same total as others i've seen

is there a reason not ALL the caps get replaced?
 
AAAAAAND ... on C407 ... desoldered the bottom but which is supposed to be the positive lead???

it looked like the original was coming through that "upper" positive (the one i've got the leg sticking through in the pic) but i see the "+" to the right of the "lower" positive in the pic

IMG_0642.jpg
 
AAAAAAND ... on C407 ... desoldered the bottom but which is supposed to be the positive lead???

it looked like the original was coming through that "upper" positive (the one i've got the leg sticking through in the pic) but i see the "+" to the right of the "lower" positive in the pic

IMG_0642.jpg

Postive is on the bottom.
Edit: I see what you're asking now...doesn't matter which one of those lower holes you put the positive lead through. As you can see from my pic, those two holes are solder bridged.
 

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DONE ... finally ... all caps and resistors replaced for the 20EZ chassis and sound amp (note to self ... next time, start with the resistors first ...)

other than a good spot check, is there anything else i should do before hooking this all back up? any continuity tests? while everything looks good, i'm nervous (e.g.) two solder points are gonna get bridged that shouldn't be or some other rookie-type mistake

i ain't trying to ruin a perfectly good Sanyo 20EZ (or worse!)
 
I always make sure I put each cap in the right direction one last time. In other words, make sure each cap has its negative stripe lined up with the stripe on the board. As you check each cap, mark the top with a sharpie.

When you first fire up the game, the screen will probably look like crap. Don't panick, your probably going to need to adjust the pots for a while to get a good image. Good luck!

There's no better feeling than seeing a monitor come back to life after a cap kit!
 
run it for at least 20 minutes than set your B+ to 108vdc and once that is done than do any other needed adjustments.
 
holy crap. it actually worked when i plugged it all back in (even the sound amp that i savaged hahahahaha)

now all i gotta do is adjust that B+ (i guess i should invest in a multimeter) and i think i'll be able to dial those colors in perfectly.

God capkits suck but my fear of them has been somewhat alleviated ... now i have at least one more Sanyo to go :004_scry:

for anyone reading this that's never done one because of trepidation: if i can do it, this should be all the proof that - with planning, organization, and patience - you can do it too

IMG_0643.jpg
 
Nice job! Looks really good!

Yes get a multimeter. I'm using one on a daily basis now. A must have.

And get some alegator clips with it too. Also a must.
 
OK so follow-up ... the Sanyo will need adjustments but other than the Nintendo hum fix involving the 50k pot on the soundboard (gonna hit that this weekend) it's done

so i'm recapping a Nintendo PP-7B PS ... since this thing is power-related (not that the CRT isn't) i'm trying to be as delicate with my solder points as possible (so as not to create an unintentional and possibly destructive bridge).

but holy hell some of these solder points are very close along parallel traces. other than a delicate hand and eye, any helpful tips to not create an electronic-time bomb after recapping this thing?

below is one of the first caps i've done, but some of them have solder points (near the power headers) even closer:

IMG_0653.jpg


IMG_0654.jpg
 
I capped a Nintendo Power Supply last year...and holy crap that was a lot of work and required a steady hand and some patience.

You need to get a multimeter and put it on continuity and touch each probe to the 2 solder pads in question. If you hear a beep, then you have bridged the traces.

I know that fluke make a great multimeter but I have found this one to be a good value:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXX2OYY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

EDIT: Also remember to try and not bend those legs over and it looks like you might want to be more conservative with the solder. Easier to add more solder than it is to take it off...especially if the legs are bent.

how_to_solder_in_ten-easy_steps_4.jpg
 
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heh learned this the hard way when i re-capped my Sanyo ... it had been re-capped by someone before and i felt like half the time i was gonna tear traces out because the legs were bent perpendicularly and soldered in parallel with the board itself

EDIT: Also remember to try and not bend those legs over and it looks like you might want to be more conservative with the solder. Easier to add more solder than it is to take it off...especially if the legs are bent.

how_to_solder_in_ten-easy_steps_4.jpg
 
I have a solder sucker....but I also use copper braid to do final cleanup on the pads.

Also note the top side of the boards sometimes have markings for +/-. Often its just a dot near one of the holes.
 
heh learned this the hard way when i re-capped my Sanyo ... it had been re-capped by someone before and i felt like half the time i was gonna tear traces out because the legs were bent perpendicularly and soldered in parallel with the board itself



always remember that "too much solder" picture may not happen due to too much solder but not enough flux/too many contaminants will also cause that type of appearance which you have to remove all solder and hit the connection again and maybe again depending on what type of flux/solder the manufacturer originally used.
 
I have a solder sucker....but I also use copper braid to do final cleanup on the pads.

Also note the top side of the boards sometimes have markings for +/-. Often its just a dot near one of the holes.

kinda funny about the copper braid. every single radioshack store in the 50-100 mile
radius is completely sold out of it. mainly cuz all those stores can burn in hell and they
are going out of business! finally!! lame ass store. they all deserve to shrivel and go away.
 
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