A couple of M5000 questions

MonsterBash

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So I just picked up a Space Invaders Deluxe that plays blind. I found the anode wire ripped out of the white plastic thing (pictured below). Being this is the first B/W monitor I've worked on I have a few questions.

I was able to solder the wire back together by removing the black shaft then a cap like piece of metal that the wire originally attached to and put it back together.

I checked the voltage at Q17 and was right at 73v both before and after the repair.

After the repair I got neck glow and just a line running horizontal across the center of the screen. The tube tested fine with the rejuv. When I coin the game up you can see movement in the white line (about a 1/4 inch wide)..it consistent with move the laser left and right

My question is with the anode wire repair is this chassis ever going to work? I'm note sure what I took apart to fix it was originally sealed system. It certainly came apart easy like it was meant to come apart.

I'm gonna order a cap kit for now...wondering if anyone has made this repair and was successful
 

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So I found this post from Retro...

I looked at the manual for both SID and the m5000 and can't find the pinouts..I'd like to try this just to test the boards. Anyone know which pins are the video out and ground?

Did they replace the large silver can capacitor on the monitor? That's the main filter, it's actually a multi-section cap, several capacitors in one. When they go bad, the picture gets this wave through it.

You can isolate the problem to the monitor by feeding in some other video signal, or feeding the game's video elsewhere. Black and white arcade monitors actually just take regular composite video. The molex plug carries AC power to the monitor, as well as the video signal. Check the wiring diagram in the manual to see which pin is which. There will be a video line, and a video ground. You can make up a lead to go from that plug to an RCA connector. Center pin is video, outer ring is video ground. Plug that into a the composite video input on a television set, and see the game's video on that screen. Or, patch the signal from something else (like a Nintendo) into the arcade machine's monitor. This will help rule out if it's a board problem or a monitor problem.

For a test lead, a length of two conductor wire with some bits of a paper clip soldered to the end work. You can jam the paper clip pins into the back of the molex connector that goes to the monitor. To test the game's video on something else, unhook the molex from the monitor. To test some other signal on the monitor, plug the molex into the monitor, and unplug the edge connector from the game board.

-Ian
 
My question is with the anode wire repair is this chassis ever going to work? I'm note sure what I took apart to fix it was originally sealed system. It certainly came apart easy like it was meant to come apart.

Yeah, that's fine. That is the holder for the HV diode. I've had to fix these before too. The repair worked if you got a picture. If it didn't work you should have heard some nasty zapping and arcing...

The HV diode is a failure point - when it goes, it causes the picture to bloom real big.

Right now, it sounds like you have a nearly working monitor with collapse in one direction. You say that the line is horizontal - is that horizontal relative to the game, or horizontal relative to the picture tube? Space Invaders is a vertical game, so if you have a horizontal line (i.e. parallel to the floor), then you've actually lost horizontal deflection. But if it's a horizontal line relative to the picture tube (perpendicular to the floor), then you've lost vertical deflection.

A common cause of complete collapse is a bad connection to the yoke itself. Loss of horizontal deflection is kind of rare beyond a connection problem because the horizontal circuit is tied pretty closely to the high voltage generation. Lose the horizontal transistor and you also lose the picture entirely.

The pinouts are in both manuals, but looking at the monitor manual, which I happen to have handy, it's pins 1 (signal) and 2 (ground) of the large molex plug that goes in to the monitor. You can sanity check this by following the wires inside the monitor to the circuit board - you should be able to easily spot the 110vAC and the video.

-Ian
 
So it's horizontal in compared to the monitor (Parallel to the floor).

Actually a yoke connection make perfect sense as I did remove the chassis to make the repair. I took picture of the 4 wires hooked up to the yoke but I could barely see them when I put it back together. I 'thought' I had them correct but I probably don't

I'll have to check them when I get home...I bet I crossed something
 
Just checked the Space Invaders Deluxe manual. Pins 17 and 18 are GND and VIDEO respectively, on the 18 pin connector on the game board. You should be able to follow them right up to the monitor.

-Ian
 
Thanks..
I had a hell of a time try to read that as the scans are horrible. It looks like 17 is the top black wire..18 is red wire right below it.

I'll have about a half hour when i get home before I gotta leave again..I'll do some poking around. I bet I got a wire crossed on the yoke..will check that first..then I'll make a component cable


Just checked the Space Invaders Deluxe manual. Pins 17 and 18 are GND and VIDEO respectively, on the 18 pin connector on the game board. You should be able to follow them right up to the monitor.

-Ian
 
So I just tried the RCA cable thing and it plays fine on my 25" zeinth...I'll have to get a better look at the monitor tomorrow
 
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