8liners 825HR installation tutorial?

r3m

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8liners 825HR horizontal width problem

Hey guys. I just got in my 8liners chassis for a 25" tube that I have and will be installing it in my cab. Only thing is. I'm not sure what color wires are supposed to be connected to which pins on top of that there is another connecter with red, green, blue, black, and white and have no clue where those are supposed to be hooked up either. I was looking at a retroblast tutorial but they skip that step and don't explain how to tell which color wires should be soldered to which pins. Also they talk about the degaussing cord you get but I didn't get 1. Is 1 somehow not needed anymore? it would be great if someone can shoot me a tutorial link to get me on my way because I have searched up and down these forums and others but I can't seem to find anything on how to install them.

If you need pictures let me know and I will get them.

Thanks
 
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Thanks very much. I have everything hooked up etc but when I turn the machine on it goes through rom check and after the check I see midway and it resets the game. Tried it on a working killer instinct game and I see the blue bar it then stalls and goes to do the blue bar again with weird lines in them the next time. Both sound checks work fine. srarcade80 is also trying to help me with this problem.

Victor from 8liners said my power supply voltage was ok before I bought the chassis. Now that I have this hooked up and the problem he said it might be a power supply problem or my iso transformer. It's in a dedicated Killer Instinct cabinet. Since I bought it 2 years ago I have never played it and I am getting very frustrated and it's plain depressing. ='(

I also hear a high pitch hum, Looks like there is pincousion, and I have the horizontal all the way in and it's still way too wide for the screen.
 
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I have the horizontal all the way in and it's still way too wide for the screen.

I have a Wei ya 425H, and on the board there was a red wire I believe that could be jumped to two different pins. One with an (W) for wide and a (N) for Narrow. Maybe yours has this as well. If so it needs to be plugged in to the (N). Hope this helps
 
I just looked and it's on the (N). Switched it to (W) just to see what it would do and it made it very wide.

Also forgot to mention that right before I put in the chassis the games played blind all the way through. Now that I've connected the new chassis it started to do this resetting stuff.
 
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Maybe you could post a few pics of the chassis wired up, and if something look's wrong someone maybe able to help you better. Also take a pic of the screen when powering on the game so we can see the problem your having.
 
Ok here are the pictures of how I have everything wired up.
http://s17.postimage.org/rn5l26365/DSC00725.jpg
http://s17.postimage.org/lnmfc97rh/DSC00726.jpg
http://s17.postimage.org/63f1lpxn1/DSC00728.jpg

And here is the picture of the horizontal problem.
http://s17.postimage.org/sgms8iykt/DSC00736.jpg

And the reset after rom check on the MK1 board.
http://s17.postimage.org/suo484iod/DSC00737.jpg

By the way it ruined my mortal kombat 1 board and my killer instinct board.
on top of that I'm hooking up a power supply I know works but the old power supply just says AC and AC. I have a purple wire with a yellow strip and a solid purple wire. Which would be neutral and hot?
Both don't boot up after rom check in my other cab now and they were previously both working.
 
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Ok here are the pictures of how I have everything wired up.
http://s17.postimage.org/rn5l26365/DSC00725.jpg
http://s17.postimage.org/lnmfc97rh/DSC00726.jpg
http://s17.postimage.org/63f1lpxn1/DSC00728.jpg

And here is the picture of the horizontal problem.
http://s17.postimage.org/sgms8iykt/DSC00736.jpg

And the reset after rom check on the MK1 board.
http://s17.postimage.org/suo484iod/DSC00737.jpg

By the way it ruined my mortal kombat 1 board and my killer instinct board.
on top of that I'm hooking up a power supply I know works but the old power supply just says AC and AC. I have a purple wire with a yellow strip and a solid purple wire. Which would be neutral and hot?
Both don't boot up after rom check in my other cab now and they were previously both working.

Purple should be hot, and purple with yellow should be neutral. These two wires were running to the AC on old power supply, right?
And it looks like your missing the red color on the monitor,or it needs to be adjusted. The last pic looks like it's out of sync, I believe you would need to adjust the V sync. I know Mortal Kombat runs at a odd sync, something like 53khz. Maybe your chassis has a 60/50khz switch.
 
Ya my convergence is off but I was worried about messing up my boards and how everything is cut off by a lot horizontally during the rom check. The KI board played fine blind before I changed out the chassis and the tube.
 
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Ok so I put in the new power supply and my mortal kombat game seems to play through pretty good. meaning that maybe my mortal kombat arcade machine power supply is going too? My killer instinct however gets past boot, plays the music, stays on the rare midway screen, and there is no announcer talking. And while that's happening the blue bar comes back like when you first turn it on but the music still plays. May be some rom or flash drive issues? Also for some reason on the KI the black is not black and it's like a dark green with a line on the bottom of the screen and than line is the same exact part at the part that is missing color. Seems as if that piece was taken out and put at the bottom. So now it seems the only problem that I have so far is my KI board, and the horizontal stretch. Gonna keep the power off on the machine for a while and try KI again and try MK again and go from there.
 
The width on the 825HR has to be corrected by changing the width cap. Its going to always run wide out of the box, even set on narrow. You can solder in another cap in series of the same value and keep swapping caps until you find something that fits better. I don't recall the cap number off the top of my head but its one of the brown fat guys near the flyback and non adjustable width coil.

Remember, KI is going to suck more power than MK because of that drive so you need to make sure your +5v trim is close to +5v as possible. You will need to adjust between swapping these games. I've seen funny on screen glitches like you describe to no boot blue screens from +5v being off on KI.
 
The width on the 825HR has to be corrected by changing the width cap. Its going to always run wide out of the box, even set on narrow. You can solder in another cap in series of the same value and keep swapping caps until you find something that fits better. I don't recall the cap number off the top of my head but its one of the brown fat guys near the flyback and non adjustable width coil.

Remember, KI is going to suck more power than MK because of that drive so you need to make sure your +5v trim is close to +5v as possible. You will need to adjust between swapping these games. I've seen funny on screen glitches like you describe to no boot blue screens from +5v being off on KI.

Do you mind figuring out the cap that needs changed on the wei-ya chassis? I have one of these chassis and it is also too wide. I spent lots and lots of time trying to figure out how to fix it only to give up. I saw several people mention this width cap, but no one ever divulged the info.
 
Little off topic here... how long did it take for 8liners to reply to your initial email? I emailed them on Monday and haven't heard a word back yet so I'm curious.
 
The width on the 825HR has to be corrected by changing the width cap. Its going to always run wide out of the box, even set on narrow. You can solder in another cap in series of the same value and keep swapping caps until you find something that fits better. I don't recall the cap number off the top of my head but its one of the brown fat guys near the flyback and non adjustable width coil.

Remember, KI is going to suck more power than MK because of that drive so you need to make sure your +5v trim is close to +5v as possible. You will need to adjust between swapping these games. I've seen funny on screen glitches like you describe to no boot blue screens from +5v being off on KI.
I turned it up to 5.2 and it still did it. Maybe try and turn it up a little more? I am using the flash drive instead of the hard drive for my killer instinct. Is it possible for you to find out which caps I need to change? Without knowing which cap to change with another I won't be able to get this finished. It actually seems like it's the only thing I have left for this monitor to be finished. Btw you have done an amazing job helping me out this far man. =)

"I spent lots and lots of time trying to figure out how to fix it only to give up. I saw several people mention this width cap, but no one ever divulged the info."

Ya I've read people talking about it a while ago too but I never seen anyone actually share the info either. If anything I'd love to share that info if I knew it to help people get their monitor fully functional.
 
Little off topic here... how long did it take for 8liners to reply to your initial email? I emailed them on Monday and haven't heard a word back yet so I'm curious.
It really varies with him. It's hit and miss. Sometimes almost right away and sometimes a few days or so. Send him another email.

Alright back on topic I was looking at my chassis and right next to the pin where you can change the jumper to W and N. Right next to those pins are those brown things that was spoken of by srarcade80. The W is a bigger brown one J38A and the N has a smaller of those brown things C908. I am no electrician but my guess would probably be changing the C098 out. But with what? Idk. I see nothing written on the brown thing but just a serial number. I can't really find any info on them. I'm not even sure if that's the one that would need changed. I looked at my polo chassis and there is only 1 of those brown things on my whole chassis next to the fly back... I'm wondering...
 
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OK so here is the deal. I took a closer look at the chassis and it appears there are 2 jumpers.
On mine 1 of the jumpers is white and the other is red. The red is removable but the white is not and is soldered in. With the white jumper there actually seems to be 3 selections. N, W, and K. Well the white wire is actually soldered in the K position on the board. I'm wondering if it's there for a reason or if I should de-solder it and put it on the N position on the board? I'm kinda scared to do it because if my board fries I will not be able to get another chassis for it for a loooong time. Here is a picture of a earlier model chassis which allows you to make a selection between K, N, & W. Look closest near the flyback.
chassis_small.jpg
Now look at a picture I took of mine. Mine is slightly different and you can't see the N but it's the other Bold black circle. http://www.shotpix.com/images/77589451510926191882.jpg I kept it a link due to size.
 
I have the schematic for this chassis somewhere in my manuals, I'll look to see if that jumper is on it. I'll be installing 4 of these in the next week or so (two on polo tubes) and I'll share my results when I tweak the width on them of what caps I end up with.
 
I have the schematic for this chassis somewhere in my manuals, I'll look to see if that jumper is on it. I'll be installing 4 of these in the next week or so (two on polo tubes) and I'll share my results when I tweak the width on them of what caps I end up with.

Highly appreciated. If the width can be fixed on these they become a really viable chassis to use.
 
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