720 "off with thy head!!!" Restore

LUCKYMAN

New member
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
6,465
Reaction score
54
Location
Clifton Heights, Pennsylvania
dscn1344i.jpg


Well i started my 720 restoration. First i chopped the head off. It doestnt unscrew, it accually has wood screws in the wood holding the head on. you really cant unscrew these screws cause the head of it is sandwitched between the head board and the support board which is glue together..i guess!!
dscn1345f.jpg


Anyways i got it off without breaking anything. Lifted those screws on the right side, but no damage, but ill lob them off with some cutters... Ill run some longer screws in those spots later to re-enforce the head of it.

dscn1343j.jpg


but i also got some of the wooden pegs out to the board that accually secures the head to the body. im going to replace them and mabey through some screws in, for 2 that i broke for more support..

dscn1346h.jpg


dscn1342y.jpg


my next step will be stripping the head of everything , getting the side panels off, then restore it... Ill post some pics when i get to that.
 
ok stripped the thing of tmolding and vinyl. The vinyl peeled off very easy i was surprised. Didnt even have to use a heat gun.

dscn1344c.jpg


I had to remove the sides of the radio to get the t-molding off for both sides and head.

again had to be gentle not to break and pieces cause each piece is stapled and glued..

got the sides off without breaking anything.

dscn1349d.jpg


Pulled some partical board on the glue areas but nothing that cant be sanded and fixed..

dscn1350n.jpg


Vinyl peeled off real easy of the sides of the radio. Has some partical board sweling around the edges, but they will get sanded down to also remove the old resin vinyl glue...

dscn1352j.jpg


removed some of the vinyl in the inside. I think im just gonna sand, prime and paint the front part and leave some vinyl like you see just cause its the monitor area and you dont see it, even with the monitor in youll never see it...

dscn1355.jpg
 
I forgot, are you going with Rich's 2nd run of vinyl? That stuff is really thin if you do, so be careful. Also be SUPER careful when replacing the boom box artwork.
 
I forgot, are you going with Rich's 2nd run of vinyl? That stuff is really thin if you do, so be careful. Also be SUPER careful when replacing the boom box artwork.

im going to paint it.. i have KILLERKADES left over paint from when he did his restore.. I also dont know when rich will have that done either, if it even comes about.. I also think the paint will be a better solution. All my cabs ive restored ive done with paint and they are very durable and look very nice...Also im already putting enough money into the cab with artwork and monitor repairs...

As for the radio overlay.. you know it funny you say that. I just bought BLOWBACKs radio overlay that he was selling for 60.00 shipped.. When i got it, the clear layer on top of the graphic was alreaady coming off the graphic. And if you just touch it, it was gettting worse and worse... i didnt peel anything or do anything to it, just pull it out of the envolope it came in.. Now im ordering the whole set from pheionx for 180.00

Theres a trick to apply overlays and such. Its called 1/2 windex and 1/2 water. Spray the area that you are applying. also spray the overlay. Not to soak it, just to wet it. This will allow you to move the overlay around so it doesnt stick right away.. Once you have the graphic in place, you get a squeegie and squeegie all the windex from underneath out. The alcohol thats in the windex will adhere the overlays glue right to the panel... also you can get all the air bubbles out with the squeegie.. it works wonders!!
 
True to the wet method...however you hit the nail on the head regarding the separation. I got 2 sets from Darin and both separated just removing the paper backing...that's what you have to be careful about.
 
Theres a trick to apply overlays and such. Its called 1/2 windex and 1/2 water. Spray the area that you are applying. also spray the overlay. Not to soak it, just to wet it. This will allow you to move the overlay around so it doesnt stick right away.. Once you have the graphic in place, you get a squeegie and squeegie all the windex from underneath out. The alcohol thats in the windex will adhere the overlays glue right to the panel... also you can get all the air bubbles out with the squeegie.. it works wonders!!

Except...never, EVER, add water, and that includes Windex, if you're applying it to particleboard, MDF, heck..even plywood has grain that raises when it gets moist. Using windex or soapy water is fine, if applying to metal, painted metal, melamine, but I've applied a ton of artwork and have always done it dry.
 
Except...never, EVER, add water, and that includes Windex, if you're applying it to particleboard, MDF, heck..even plywood has grain that raises when it gets moist. Using windex or soapy water is fine, if applying to metal, painted metal, melamine, but I've applied a ton of artwork and have always done it dry.

Umm. Of course it's over primed, painted wood. Who the he'll would put art over plain particle wood? I've done this to all my cabs and never ever had problems

the water doesnt soak in, it doesnt have time... ill show you pics off all my cabs done that way and there is no lifting no corners lifting no air bubbles nothing, just perfect
 
Last edited:
ok, been busy past couple of days, reallty havent had time to work on it till today.

sanded the cab down, bondo what needed to be bondo and then sand cab again

dscn1361.jpg


(really sunny out today, pics are kinda dark)

then primed the cab, back monitor door, and the radio sides.. I also sanded and primed the top piece of the cab that the radio screws to...

dscn1364m.jpg

dscn1365m.jpg
 
Love 720° and love what you're doing. Please post as many pics as possible along the way. I am trying to design a custom 720° and want to see how all the wiring, internals, etc look like so I can streamline the design as much as possible.
 
Back
Top Bottom