720 controller probs...

FlashbaxArcade

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i see there are several threads on a jerky/wrong direction skater but haven't seen anything that says anything about having it in the calibration test mode! like what the "circle" reading says or does....

i have one that turns almost at a 180 degree(opposite way)! doesn't do a thing in test mode on the calib screen. can't test 489 sounds on screen before cause controller won't move the number(000).

also, does this pcb(s) only need 5vdc? that's the only thing besides ground that's used on switcher??? kinda strange since audio is usually 12v, i thought.

things i've done:
1. rebuilt controller(just mechanical parts)
2. replaced switcher- (thought i'd replace anyway, had 5v on old switcher but only 4.9 at cpu...now i have 5.1 at cpu and did give a #488 at sound test but still can't change)
3. reseated all chips including LETA at 7F(mine says VLS1)
4. repositioned encoder wheels in the spot that i can unscrew allen screws(should be right i think)
5. moved encoder pcb all over....nothing changed

any ideas or do i have a bad LETA or encoder pcb?
 
If your controller is 180 degrees off, it sounds like your centering disc, the one with only two slots, is oriented incorrectly. The slots should be in the encoder when the controller is at the top closest to the monitor.
If it doesn't do a thing in test mode how can you tell it's 180 degrees off? During game play? Does the skater turn or twitch at all?
 
If your controller is 180 degrees off, it sounds like your centering disc, the one with only two slots, is oriented incorrectly. The slots should be in the encoder when the controller is at the top closest to the monitor.
If it doesn't do a thing in test mode how can you tell it's 180 degrees off? During game play? Does the skater turn or twitch at all?

Try putting joystick in 12 o clock position. Power on game, start game then see how it is calibrated. Turn off game. Put joystick in 6 oclock position. Power on game. Start game, then see if calibration has changed. Vary time game is powered of before restarting. Was there any change like there was in mine?
 
If your controller is 180 degrees off, it sounds like your centering disc, the one with only two slots, is oriented incorrectly. The slots should be in the encoder when the controller is at the top closest to the monitor.
If it doesn't do a thing in test mode how can you tell it's 180 degrees off? During game play? Does the skater turn or twitch at all?

it's not 180 off....it does move in gameplay but not good! if you turm controller slowly, it never goes up/north and soon as it gets about perfectly left or right(sideways) it will jump 180 the other way!

still has no colored in circles at all in test mode though!

hope that explains better.
 
Try putting joystick in 12 o clock position. Power on game, start game then see how it is calibrated. Turn off game. Put joystick in 6 oclock position. Power on game. Start game, then see if calibration has changed. Vary time game is powered of before restarting. Was there any change like there was in mine?

ill try that!
 
If you are getting 5v at the optical board, then you might want to try the shotgun approach. Replace both the dual optical board and the LETA chip. It is nice to have spares even if one of the parts doesn't need to be replaced. Or you could send your optical board to someone to test it their machine, to check if that is the problem, if you don't want to replace a good part.
 
it's not 180 off....it does move in gameplay but not good! if you turm controller slowly, it never goes up/north and soon as it gets about perfectly left or right(sideways) it will jump 180 the other way!

still has no colored in circles at all in test mode though!

hope that explains better.

Sounds like problem with optical board. Test the connectors to make sure there is a solid connection and voltage reads correctly during test mode. Possibly change the few components on the optic board, and hopefully the problem is limited to the joystick itself not the cpu.
 
Sounds like problem with optical board. Test the connectors to make sure there is a solid connection and voltage reads correctly during test mode. Possibly change the few components on the optic board, and hopefully the problem is limited to the joystick itself not the cpu.

yeah, iirc there is just one chip and maybe a coulple caps then the 2 optics! i would think the optics would go before the chip and/or the caps!

i ordered a optical pcb from Ram Controls but he doesn't respond to well it seems!!! anyone else have this problem? he repros great stuff and have bought several $100s of $$$ from him and still very slow. i try to give benefit of the doubt but he won't even reply via pms...hardly ever it seems! still waiting on SW Yoke and i had to be one of the very 1st ones paid.

anyone know what the deal is?
 
update:

update: rebuilt controller(replaced with new encoder pcb, wheels, etc...), also replaced switcher! i wasn't getting 5v at pcb but now i have to adj switcher to 5.3v to get 5.1 at lower pcb test points and controller connector(only had 4.9v). seems to work now intermittently(with 5.1v at controller)! still can't see anything goin on in controller test screen(0's) and my holes on "home" wheel will not line up to be perfect where "up" is up!!!

do i need to turn voltage up more than that for controller to work properly?

i read there's 3 ways to put "home" wheel and when its in up position then it should be inside pcb but mine doesn't meet up???
 
try cleaning the edge connector and try again..

you shouldnt be dropping more then 1/10th of a volt if you have good connections..


either that or something on the pcbs is pulling the 5v down...
 
The white power connector at the bottom of the board is known to brown and cause resistance. I had a significant voltage drop that caused game problems before I replaced the connector.

The controller itself only goes together one way, then the centering disc can be put in three different positions. One position should line up when the stick is closest to monitor. You might have the whole controller assembly turned the wrong direction- the optical board should be closest to the monitor.

I bet your LETA chip is bad. I had two go bad. I think it was related to having to turn the voltage up to get the game to play. I think the higher voltage burns out the LETA. Once I replaced the power connector, turned the switcher down and replaced the LETA I have been trouble free.
 
The white power connector at the bottom of the board is known to brown and cause resistance. I had a significant voltage drop that caused game problems before I replaced the connector.

The controller itself only goes together one way, then the centering disc can be put in three different positions. One position should line up when the stick is closest to monitor. You might have the whole controller assembly turned the wrong direction- the optical board should be closest to the monitor.

I bet your LETA chip is bad. I had two go bad. I think it was related to having to turn the voltage up to get the game to play. I think the higher voltage burns out the LETA. Once I replaced the power connector, turned the switcher down and replaced the LETA I have been trouble free.

ahh...i'll take a look at connector and turn controller that way! it actually has the optic pcb on one side, not toward monitor also! right now it's off my a little from being straight up!

thanks
 
ok, cleaned all connectors and even pins, reflowed pins, and reseated all socketed chips. seems to work now but don't trust it. i believe i have an intermittent LETA just cause it won't calibrate at all and won't go to center(up)!

who sells LETAs and are they on all System 1 pcbs(Indana Jones)? or just for trackball/spinners like Marble Madness?
 
Canadian Amusement Game Supplies had some, but they no longer seem to have a web site. Try emailing "Steve Camilleri" <[email protected]> the business might have closed but he may still have the parts.

http://www.coinopchips.com klov member jbuck was talking about reproducing them. I'm not entirely sure he is still in 100% business. Maybe he has some prototypes he made.

Or buy a donor board. I got this list from system16 site. It doesn't have 720 on the list- so who know how accurate it is. It seems like it should be on all Tracball and steering wheel games like Marble Madness, APB and Sprints- but I have no confirmation on those.

Off the Wall
Shuuz
Rampart (x2)
Blasteroids
System II CPU
BadLands
 
Canadian Amusement Game Supplies had some, but they no longer seem to have a web site. Try emailing "Steve Camilleri" <[email protected]> the business might have closed but he may still have the parts.

http://www.coinopchips.com klov member jbuck was talking about reproducing them. I'm not entirely sure he is still in 100% business. Maybe he has some prototypes he made.

Or buy a donor board. I got this list from system16 site. It doesn't have 720 on the list- so who know how accurate it is. It seems like it should be on all Tracball and steering wheel games like Marble Madness, APB and Sprints- but I have no confirmation on those.

Off the Wall
Shuuz
Rampart (x2)
Blasteroids
System II CPU
BadLands

thanks for the link and options but emailed earlier and haven't heard anything! probably not going to i suspect.

i can't believe noone has these made yet if they are really that much trouble???
 
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