6100 Z Amp 100% and not adjustable

Are the two neck boards you tried exactly the same revision?

I'd also check all of the wires on the neck board. They like to break very easily, and can even break inside the insulation, so you can't see that they're broken. Tone everything out with the DMM.

Also, make sure all four ground wires are good, that connect to the aluminum frame plate. There should be 2 from the neck board, one from the harness, and one for the dag spring.

You light also have issues with the HV cage or focus block pot, which is preventing the brightness (i.e., screen) pot from working. Try swapping HV cages with your good monitor.
 
Just fixed a tempest with that same exact issue a few days ago. Just like Andrew said, the issue was wires on the neck board that were barley hanging on. I just re soldered all the wires on the neck board cut back a little bit so fresh wire was now attached and bam, perfect picture.
 
This is what mine looked like before and after
98ccd81a1b1644d111e7c67d2118c936.jpg
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Are the two neck boards you tried exactly the same revision?

I'd also check all of the wires on the neck board. They like to break very easily, and can even break inside the insulation, so you can't see that they're broken. Tone everything out with the DMM.

Also, make sure all four ground wires are good, that connect to the aluminum frame plate. There should be 2 from the neck board, one from the harness, and one for the dag spring.

You light also have issues with the HV cage or focus block pot, which is preventing the brightness (i.e., screen) pot from working. Try swapping HV cages with your good monitor.

Yes, same version neck boards. I actually already replaced all the pin & crimp connected wires to the neckboard. Some were indeed loose, so I replaced them all.

I just replaced the dag spring and know it's good to ground. I'll all test the others as well.

I agree that the issue appears to be in the HV cage??? I'll try a good one and see what that gets me.
 
Couple of new things.

Tested and verified all the ground wires are good with continuity between the chassis and their solder pads.

First, I tried swapping a known good HV cage. Same identical results. That leaves it being the neckboard pretty conclusively?

I re-installed the original HV, and with no signal, set the HV to 19.5 KV with an HV probe, etc. With the original HV cage, if I turn up the brightness a bit (the lower knob on the flyback), and crash it down to the minimum setting fairly quickly, I'll get a second or two of a good image that slowly reverts to bad again.



As a side note, this flyback has 2 thumb turn-able knobs for focus & brightness. My other 3 6100s require a screwdriver for the lower adjustment. Variant flybacks? Aftermarket?

Im in the process now of trying known good HV cage AND known good neckboard just to cover the bases.

edit: As expected; known good HV & Neckboard = good picture.
 
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With the HV probe connected, and the picture starts blooming and shrinking, is the HV stable? I bet "not".

If not a bad neck board, maybe a bad transformer in the HV cage.

Will be interesting to see which board you narrow it down to ...

(BTW, the fire button on the CP should be "black") LOL :)
 
With the HV probe connected, and the picture starts blooming and shrinking, is the HV stable? I bet "not".

No, not stable at all.. all over the map. 14.5k thru to 18k.

But I got the same with the known good HV cage, so I'm doubtful of transformer... but I'll re-verify it to be sure. Knowing my luck, it'll be something in both the HV and neckboard that are difficult to diagnose on their own. :(
 
You might also have a broken pin inside the neck connector on the neck board.

You can pop that cap off the back of the connector, and check that wire. (Just pop it off with a small screwdriver. There isn't any way to damage it, really.) You can try toning out all of the other pins as well, through the neck connector.

Also check to make sure you don't have any bent pins on the neck, and make sure there isn't any dirt or corrosion on any of the pins. Basically anything that could cause a broken connection.
 
You might also have a broken pin inside the neck connector on the neck board.

You can pop that cap off the back of the connector, and check that wire. (Just pop it off with a small screwdriver. There isn't any way to damage it, really.) You can try toning out all of the other pins as well, through the neck connector.

Also check to make sure you don't have any bent pins on the neck, and make sure there isn't any dirt or corrosion on any of the pins. Basically anything that could cause a broken connection.

I have some DeOxit on the way for the neck pins; they all toned out, but look far more dull than the other neckboards I have.

I also may have found a contributing factor. The molex connector that runs from the neck connector (black wire) and the board (red wire) had the red wire not very securely held by the pin inside the molex. It toned out, but any jostling would make the connection intermittent. I tugged on the wire while holding onto the molex a bit and it came out pretty easily leaving the pin in the molex.

Is there a trick to getting the pin out of the molex and re-pinning the wire? Or do I need to buy a new set of pins and a new molex connector? Anyone know where I might find the right one?
 
I have some DeOxit on the way for the neck pins; they all toned out, but look far more dull than the other neckboards I have.

I also may have found a contributing factor. The molex connector that runs from the neck connector (black wire) and the board (red wire) had the red wire not very securely held by the pin inside the molex. It toned out, but any jostling would make the connection intermittent. I tugged on the wire while holding onto the molex a bit and it came out pretty easily leaving the pin in the molex.

Is there a trick to getting the pin out of the molex and re-pinning the wire? Or do I need to buy a new set of pins and a new molex connector? Anyone know where I might find the right one?


That is what I was referring to in post #6 (the 2-pin Molex).

Use a small jeweler's screwdriver to get the pins out, or an extraction tool. You need to bend the tabs in to get the pin to back out. Then I'll use an exacto knife or razor to gently bend the tab back out that holds the pin in when you reinsert it.

I cut, strip, and solder the wires back to the pins, then cover them with shrink tubing, to help give some strain relief. But you still need to be gentle with them.
 
I have some DeOxit on the way for the neck pins; they all toned out, but look far more dull than the other neckboards I have.

I also may have found a contributing factor. The molex connector that runs from the neck connector (black wire) and the board (red wire) had the red wire not very securely held by the pin inside the molex. It toned out, but any jostling would make the connection intermittent. I tugged on the wire while holding onto the molex a bit and it came out pretty easily leaving the pin in the molex.

Is there a trick to getting the pin out of the molex and re-pinning the wire? Or do I need to buy a new set of pins and a new molex connector? Anyone know where I might find the right one?


they do make pin extractors which work for only their designated size and we stock all of them. as example .084, .093, .062 etc.
 
That is what I was referring to in post #6 (the 2-pin Molex).

Ya, :/ I thought you meant the molex on the HV cage on the receiving side of that connector. I checked those, not the neckboard side of the connector. Fail on my part. :(

Thanks for the tips on getting the pins out.
 
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Eureka!

I repinned and replaced the molex on the HV cage connection, De-Oxit'd the neck pins, and viola! I'm in business!



For future reference, these are the correct Molex connectors:
Male:
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...ins/amp-3-pin-mate-n-lok-male-plug-connector/
Female:
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...ns/amp-3-pin-mate-n-lok-female-cap-connector/

And these are the pins I used; probably 1 size too small, but seem to work.
female:
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...female-socket-14-20-awg-loose-10-pack-cf1022/
male:
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...s-male-socket-14-20-awg-loose-10-pack-cf1023/

Thanks once again to the usual crew of 6100 experts!
 
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since we have almost 300 different connectors/pins we gave them a quick reference part number which has two letters and four numbers such as CE1012, so every connector and pins that have the same letter prefix go together. if you have CE prefix connector housing you always want pins with the same CE prefix. once customers know this it helps them to pick all the correct parts that go together.
 
since we have almost 300 different connectors/pins we gave them a quick reference part number which has two letters and four numbers such as CE1012, so every connector and pins that have the same letter prefix go together. if you have CE prefix connector housing you always want pins with the same CE prefix. once customers know this it helps them to pick all the correct parts that go together.

So the connector is a CE1009, but you dont appear to carry any CE pins. :(
 
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