6100 XY Issues

cynic1

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Donor 2011
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Hello,

I was hoping that someone on here might be able to help me out. I picked up a dead Tempest cocktail. Turned on the 6100. Spot Killer light came on, no crackle up, 1 burned up resistor in the low voltage section. In addition, there were several parts changed, a screw that used to hold the HV cage to the chassis was laying inside and touching a .39uf CAP on the HV section and another cap on the HV board was backwards. This poor guy has had a hard life. Anyhow, I installed one of Bob Roberts 6100 kit + the Additional Kit. Fired it back up... Same thing. Spot Killer light on. But the resistor didn't burn up. Tested the voltage at the transistors. The (3) 3716 seem okay. A range of +25, +26, +33. The 92's however are a totally different story. One is okay. -33. The other two registered nothing. I replaced those two again and now they both say +8. Any help anyone could give would be more than greatly appreciated. I'd love to see this guy work again. I can hear Tempest playing so it's even more tempting. Thanks in advance.

Shawn
 
6100

1. Get the LV2000 low voltage kit. Works wonders.
2. Double check all the work you did on the cap kit. Make sure all caps are in properly.
3. Reflow all of the connectors

Side note: Does the game play blind? Have you confirmed the boards are good?

You should also consider rebuilding the ARII power supply and installing a new "Big Blue" cap.

Good luck!

- Scott
 
Do you know if all of you 92s and 16s are tested good with a diode check on your meter? You can get get spot kill to turn on if your logic dose not have video output. Also check the connector to the monitor. You game is 30 years old and so are your connectors. If your logic has a video output you can see on a scope a single wire could have broken off of the male or feale pin in the connector and cause your spot kill to light.
 
Check the 2 fuses in the middle of the deflection board. If good the reflow solder on all the sockets for the chassis mounted transistors.

Andrew
 
No the red, green, yellow, blue, white, purple wires on the sockets. From all the 6100's I repair there is always cold solder on those.

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Andrew

You solder in the chassis mounted transistors ?
 
Oh ok. That is a good idea. I had one where someone had soldered the transistors into the sockets, it was a nightmare to get them out and change them. I ended up just changing the sockets too.
 
6100 (Problems continue)

Hello,

Thanks to everyone who posted responses to my original post and tried to help me get my Tempest cocktail back up and running. It is greatly appreciated. Unfortunately, I am still having issues. The game board... I did reflow solder to all the game PCB connectors. The 1 and 2 player lights flash upon startup, and I hear the game playing. (Blind play) I don't think it's my PCB.

Now to the 6100.... I guess my main issue is that I do not have any "crackle up" when powered. Nor glow on the neck board. I did reflow solder to all of the power connectors and to the wires near the TO3 transistors. Still the spot killer light comes on. I bought a LV2000. The two lights come up when tested like it's working okay, but once the power connector where reattached, the two lights came on but the spot killer was back on as well. A real problem that I am having is in the TO3's. The (3) 16 show voltages "in range" (+24, +25, +35) But the (3) 92 are where I am having an issue. One shows -25, but the other (2) are showing +8. Not sure how that's possible. I tested the transistors, but they are fine. I changed them out anyhow, same result. Spot killer light on and no crackle up. I'm guessing I need to search for that all elusive HV diode on the HV PCB to fix my HV issues, but I'm not sure that corrects my TO3 issues. If anyone has come across these voltage issues or would have any advice, it would be certainly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Shawn
 
Hello,

Thanks to everyone who posted responses to my original post and tried to help me get my Tempest cocktail back up and running. It is greatly appreciated. Unfortunately, I am still having issues. The game board... I did reflow solder to all the game PCB connectors. The 1 and 2 player lights flash upon startup, and I hear the game playing. (Blind play) I don't think it's my PCB.

Now to the 6100.... I guess my main issue is that I do not have any "crackle up" when powered. Nor glow on the neck board. I did reflow solder to all of the power connectors and to the wires near the TO3 transistors. Still the spot killer light comes on. I bought a LV2000. The two lights come up when tested like it's working okay, but once the power connector where reattached, the two lights came on but the spot killer was back on as well. A real problem that I am having is in the TO3's. The (3) 16 show voltages "in range" (+24, +25, +35) But the (3) 92 are where I am having an issue. One shows -25, but the other (2) are showing +8. Not sure how that's possible. I tested the transistors, but they are fine. I changed them out anyhow, same result. Spot killer light on and no crackle up. I'm guessing I need to search for that all elusive HV diode on the HV PCB to fix my HV issues, but I'm not sure that corrects my TO3 issues. If anyone has come across these voltage issues or would have any advice, it would be certainly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Shawn

You have multiple unrelated issues. Check your fuses (if you haven't), including the fuses in the PS. Neck glow is on the end of the tube, not on the neck board, so be sure you're looking in the right place. Make sure you're getting the correct voltages from the PS on P23.

Spotkiller on usually means no signal from the PCB, but can mean faulty SK circuits. Game could be playing blind without outputting signal. Reseat/reflow the interconnect between the PCBs, if you haven't. Reflow all the pins on the monitor boards. It would be real helpful if you had a known good PCB or monitor to test with.
 
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