48 in 1 won't register p2 start

treborlicec

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Can't figure this out. I just finished a 48 in 1 cab with a used 48 in 1 I purchased. It all works great except, P2 start will not register at all. I have verified the button and switch works. I have tested for continuity from the Jamma harness all the way to the switch and it is good. I'm at a loss here. Could it just be a bad board somehow?

Thanks in advance,
 
The 2 options it has is cocktail and upright 1 joystick. It is on upright 1 joystick, but behaves the same on both options
 
That wouldn't matter anyway, as the start buttons work in any of the 3 modes.

Couple things:

1) Is this P2 Start button ONLY wired for P2 Start, or are you using it as a jump/fire button, too? Sometimes one signal can override another, and cause a button not to work properly.

2) If you are using quick-connects on the button, try swapping the ground wire with the one on the working P1 Start buttons to see if that affects anything.

3) Swap the entire switch out with another "just because". You may test it with your meter and it goes down to say .040, but that might be just off .000 enough to keep the board from recognizing it as a low.

4) Do a continuity check from the "hot" wire for the switch all the way back to the pad on the board for that signal. I had a wire once that broken inside the insulation and wasn't connecting.

5) When you put it into Input Test, do you get any signs of life when you push the button? Any intermittent working or anything?
 
That wouldn't matter anyway, as the start buttons work in any of the 3 modes.

Couple things:

1) Is this P2 Start button ONLY wired for P2 Start, or are you using it as a jump/fire button, too? Sometimes one signal can override another, and cause a button not to work properly.

2) If you are using quick-connects on the button, try swapping the ground wire with the one on the working P1 Start buttons to see if that affects anything.

3) Swap the entire switch out with another "just because". You may test it with your meter and it goes down to say .040, but that might be just off .000 enough to keep the board from recognizing it as a low.

4) Do a continuity check from the "hot" wire for the switch all the way back to the pad on the board for that signal. I had a wire once that broken inside the insulation and wasn't connecting.

5) When you put it into Input Test, do you get any signs of life when you push the button? Any intermittent working or anything?

1) Yes, only wired for start.
2) No qd's. It was soldered to the leaf switch already.
3) I can try.
4) I've done this and it is good.
5) Nada. Nothing at all. I get registration on all other buttons that are hooked up, but nothing on this.

Thanks,
 
I was at a customer's house a few weeks ago....they had a homemade cocktail table multigame doing the same thing. I went so far as to jumper the "player 2" start to ground on the motherboard at the input.....nothing. I just assumed they (or whoever they bought it from) did something to it to blow out the input on the motherboard. I guess there could have been a bad batch of these motherboards let loose in the wild.

Edward
 
I was at a customer's house a few weeks ago....they had a homemade cocktail table multigame doing the same thing. I went so far as to jumper the "player 2" start to ground on the motherboard at the input.....nothing. I just assumed they (or whoever they bought it from) did something to it to blow out the input on the motherboard. I guess there could have been a bad batch of these motherboards let loose in the wild.

Edward

Same thing here. Jumpered at the pads on the board and nothing. Guess it just won't play 2 player games.
 
Make sure that socketed chip is seated fully. Folly that pad trace to see if it got scratched and broken...
 
Sounds stupid, but make sure you are on a game that supports 2 players. Mine won't start a 2 player game if it can't support 2 players.

ken
 
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