Compute
Well-known member
Sweet! Please do come back with your findings, my brother has a Continental Circuit cockpit and feels it is necessary to have the 3D. Thanks in advance!
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3D question
- Thread starter silvereagle
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silvereagle
Well-known member
SAY WHAT????? Your brother has the cockpit version of the game? Man, you have to post pics. I have NEVER seen one. All of the ones I've come across including the one I own is an upright.
SanTe
Well-known member
Photos attached. I couldn't get a good photo of the control panel's connector (photo #4; it's too bright with flash and practically black without), but it's a 9-pin male Molex connector (similar to this one) that is keyed on one side so that it will plug in only one way to the 9-pin female connector that comes off of the PCB. That is the only connector coming from the control panel. Photo #5 is of the female PCB connector that you can see a lot better.
I set all the dip switches to what I believe to be the default settings (dip 1 on block A is 'On' to specify upright cabinet and all other dips are 'Off'). The game still came up in 3D mode. Then I figured out that the big button on the control panel to the left of the steering wheel switches the video between 2D and 3D at any time.
Everything works. Steering is touchy on this game. Just like a real F1 I suppose.Oryk Zinyo is coming over tomorrow with the LCD shutter glasses he picked up off of eBay and we'll see if we can get 3D working.
Also, I got the wheel rotation measurement wrong last night. It turns 360 degrees from stop to stop. That is, 180 degrees from center to left stop and 180 degrees from center to right stop. I was in a hurry to leave and get back to work and wasn't thinking clearly.
I've corrected my earlier post.Attachments
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silvereagle
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Thank you for the pics SanTe. That type of steering assembly is exactly what I am trying to get to work on my cabinet and comparing my cab's wiring to yours is exactly the same so I can only assume the pcb's on my steering assembly are bad. The spring that appears to be loose on your assembly is for return to center which again, yours seems to me missing the bracket where the spring ties into to.
Now for the 3D I have to check the Dip Switches on my board because the button next to the wheel does absolutely nothing and the game is always on 2D. Perhaps the 3D feature needs to be enabled on the board and the button allows to switch between the two?
As terms of the steering being really sensitive, you can switch one of the dip switches from free steering to locked steering. Free being loose and locked much tighter. I use locked on mine.
Edit: Regarding the 3D it was a dip switch setting. Mine now switches between the two by pushing the button. On a bad note, I just unpacked my glasses and they are damaged guess I will have to wait for you guys to test it first. I'm off to contact the seller on ebay to rectify the problem.
Now for the 3D I have to check the Dip Switches on my board because the button next to the wheel does absolutely nothing and the game is always on 2D. Perhaps the 3D feature needs to be enabled on the board and the button allows to switch between the two?
As terms of the steering being really sensitive, you can switch one of the dip switches from free steering to locked steering. Free being loose and locked much tighter. I use locked on mine.
Edit: Regarding the 3D it was a dip switch setting. Mine now switches between the two by pushing the button. On a bad note, I just unpacked my glasses and they are damaged
guess I will have to wait for you guys to test it first. I'm off to contact the seller on ebay to rectify the problem.
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Compute
Well-known member
Next time I make it to GB to see him I'll snap a few pics of the cab, it's pretty neat.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
Any update on the 3D glasses guys?
SanTe
Well-known member
Sorry, I've been offline most of the day because my wife is painting in the computer room and all my gear was unplugged and piled up in the middle of the room.
Oryk came over earlier today and the glasses work.
The 3D effect is not bad at all for 1987 technology. There is some flicker but not too bad. It is enough to trigger headaches for certain people though. My monitor is pretty bright. I've read that you can reduce the flickering on these liquid crystal 3D setups by turning down the brightness of the monitor. I'll have to experiment with that.I didn't have time to take any photos of the wiring for the glasses because I was scrambling to get my game room together for an arcade party (currently in progress). I'll try to get that done tomorrow and post them here.
You were right about the broken spring on my steering wheel. I had never played this game on a real cab; I discovered it in MAME and really liked it. I didn't realize the wheel is supposed to be spring centered. The hook on one end of the spring had broken. I found a replacement spring at Home Depot today but the loops on each end are smaller and they are super stiff. The spring body itself is pretty stiff also. I was unable to get it installed after struggling with it for 20 minutes. I'll have to keep looking for a better spring replacement. The game is playable now but I'm sure it will be much better when the wheel is fixed properly.
Silvereagle, can you please post a photo of your steering assembly so I can see if anything is missing? You said you thought I am missing a bracket that the spring connects to. Also, my PCB does not seem to have any mounts. It just rests on the slide-out tray. Can you please post photos showing how your boards are mounted? Mine is just sitting loose and I don't want to leave it that way. Thanks!
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Oryk Zinyo
Well-known member
OK, I just got home and need to update this. First off the connector on the glasses:
The Tip is the right channel.
The Ring is the left channel.
The sleeve is the ground.
These are opposite of how a typical stereo headphone set is wired.
Next, the connector. From looking at the pic I assumed it was a .062 diameter connector. It is actually a .093 diameter connector. The correct parts to order are here:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/03-09-1031/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtVoztFdqDXOya2qcujYnQn
Of course you will need to get the associated sockets as well.
The Tip is the right channel.
The Ring is the left channel.
The sleeve is the ground.
These are opposite of how a typical stereo headphone set is wired.
Next, the connector. From looking at the pic I assumed it was a .062 diameter connector. It is actually a .093 diameter connector. The correct parts to order are here:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/03-09-1031/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtVoztFdqDXOya2qcujYnQn
Of course you will need to get the associated sockets as well.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
Thank you Oryk. I'm assuming you didn't cut the glasses plug to expose the 3 wires inside of it? I was planning on splicing mine open and hard wiring it to the pig tail connector i made. Good job though guys
SanTe, I have plenty of the springs you are looking for. Let me know if you can't find one locally and I'll ship you a spare and as far as the steering goes, try switching the dips from free to locked. You will notice a huge difference.
SanTe, I have plenty of the springs you are looking for. Let me know if you can't find one locally and I'll ship you a spare and as far as the steering goes, try switching the dips from free to locked. You will notice a huge difference.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
Just wanted to add I fixed my steering assembly this morning and combined with the locked steering dip switch, the game controls so much nicer. Best of all, the wheel returns to center when you let go of it, the way it was meant to
Oryk Zinyo
Well-known member
Thank you Oryk. I'm assuming you didn't cut the glasses plug to expose the 3 wires inside of it? I was planning on splicing mine open and hard wiring it to the pig tail connector i made. Good job though guys
No, I didn't cut the wire on the glasses, I just built the dongle making it easier to swap out the glasses later.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
Oh I see. IS there anyway you can post a couple of photos of the "dongle" and how it was wired Oryk? Just wanna make sure I don't mess up my new glasses when they arrive. Initially I was going to cut the plug on the glasses off and hardwire it but I noticed there's an oval looking thing at the end of the glasses wiring so I am not sure if that is needed or not.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
Silvereagle, can you please post a photo of your steering assembly so I can see if anything is missing? You said you thought I am missing a bracket that the spring connects to. Also, my PCB does not seem to have any mounts. It just rests on the slide-out tray. Can you please post photos showing how your boards are mounted? Mine is just sitting loose and I don't want to leave it that way. Thanks![/QUOTE]
SanTe,
My apologies for not filling your request sooner. I completely missed it and only seen it now after reading the thread again. Anyhow, here's the photos as you requested. As you can see, my cab's pcb, power supply etc are all mounted on the side of the cab which is dislike and plan to change but if you look closely, there are plywood boards that hold the pcb in place because it doesn't have feet to secure it to the wood. My Chase HQ is the exact same thing only the board is secured by the same pieces of plywood in the tray like your CC. TAITO had some weird designs back in the day.
SanTe,
My apologies for not filling your request sooner. I completely missed it and only seen it now after reading the thread again. Anyhow, here's the photos as you requested. As you can see, my cab's pcb, power supply etc are all mounted on the side of the cab which is dislike and plan to change but if you look closely, there are plywood boards that hold the pcb in place because it doesn't have feet to secure it to the wood. My Chase HQ is the exact same thing only the board is secured by the same pieces of plywood in the tray like your CC. TAITO had some weird designs back in the day.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
Oryk,
Here you go:
Here you go:
Homey244
Member
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I got a sit down and it seems elementary but I cannot get the gas pedal to work. In test mode it's at 5 and I step on it it goes to 4. In the manual for it says it should be at zero and then change from zero to I guess 5? I was able to use this information and get the 3D glasses hooked up. For some reason the dip switch it will not turn the 3D mode off no matter what the position it's at.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
The gas pedal is just a microswitch, so that could be the problem. I don't recall if the sit-down uses a potentiometer on the gas pedal, I don't believe so. Congrats on getting the glasses to work! Ironically enough, I had to look up my own thread to wire the glasses to my own cab earlier this year lol.
I've tried a different switch with no luck. Gas pedal 5v from the game board harness it goes to another big circuit board then it feeds through that circuit board and that wire comes out and goes to the pedal. In test mode it does change from 5 to 4 but I don't believe that's right somebody's got to have one of these games sit down or stand up would probably be the same.
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silvereagle
Well-known member
That filter board causes more problems than necessary. Bypass that wire all together and see if if the problem persists or better yet, take your Volt meter and measure continuity between the filter board and gas pedal see what you get.
Okay so that's a filter board I didn't really understand what that board was.
