NEW 3D Printable Arcade Parts (thingiverse)

What's holding the back of the marquee? The same as the front?

Scott C.
Yep, the marquee is just held between two vertical pieces of plastic. I printed it rotated on its side 90 degrees for better strength (printed as modeled would have layers stacked vertically, which are more prone to breaking if someone bumped/pushed on the marquee). STL file is attached... feel free to use it if it's helpful.

DogP
 

Attachments

  • holder.png
    holder.png
    68 KB · Views: 4
  • marquee_holder.zip
    3.9 KB · Views: 6
Yep, the marquee is just held between two vertical pieces of plastic. I printed it rotated on its side 90 degrees for better strength (printed as modeled would have layers stacked vertically, which are more prone to breaking if someone bumped/pushed on the marquee). STL file is attached... feel free to use it if it's helpful.

DogP
These may actually work, but they will need to be angled forward to offset the slop of the Williams mini cabinet top. If more support is needed, they could also be made wider, so more marquee is held.

Scott C.
 

Attachments

  • v2_cable vice.zip
    791 bytes · Views: 1
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    582.6 KB · Views: 26
Last edited:
I've gotten pretty deep into 3dprinting as of late, and I've been slowly dipping my toes into modeling.

I was able to model the Midway emblem that goes in the steering wheel of a few sit down driving games ala the Cruis'n series.

I had a hell of a time hunting one down when I needed it, and see it missing on a lot of cabs. Probably folks keeping them as trinkets.

It does require a multicolor printer, but its an option!

Midway emblem and spacers

1743163873569.png
 
I did a throttle cover for my After Burner Deluxe. No one has repro'd these yet, and they're all broken. We'll see how long my 3D-printed version lasts!

Printed in ASA, then painted with Krylon Fusion satin nickel, then Fusion clear gloss. The color match is good, but not perfect. Likewise, the print is a good replica, but not perfect. The original was vacuum formed, and it's tough to model the way the plastic flows.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7007990

20250411_123314_sm.jpg
 
I did a throttle cover for my After Burner Deluxe. No one has repro'd these yet, and they're all broken. We'll see how long my 3D-printed version lasts!

Printed in ASA, then painted with Krylon Fusion satin nickel, then Fusion clear gloss. The color match is good, but not perfect. Likewise, the print is a good replica, but not perfect. The original was vacuum formed, and it's tough to model the way the plastic flows.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7007990

View attachment 812582
You could 3D print a mold and cast one out of high strength epoxy? That would certainly last.
 
Was doing some research on the pc10 holster and came across this 3D print model, and thus lead me to this thread lol🙃 is there someone on here that can print one of these bad boys for me?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3538225
@Arcadenut printed this for me; he does amazing work, and super fast!

I'm wondering what hardware anyone has used for this to attach the holster part to the back plate? I believe the original had threaded parts on the backplate to grab a bolt, but obviously the printed one does not. Technically I could just use long screws to go all the way through to the wood, but i'd rather not. Bolts are out because they would create a gap on the back of the plate.
 
@Arcadenut printed this for me; he does amazing work, and super fast!

I'm wondering what hardware anyone has used for this to attach the holster part to the back plate? I believe the original had threaded parts on the backplate to grab a bolt, but obviously the printed one does not. Technically I could just use long screws to go all the way through to the wood, but i'd rather not. Bolts are out because they would create a gap on the back of the plate.
@braedel mau have plate and parts for sale.
 
@Arcadenut printed this for me; he does amazing work, and super fast!

I'm wondering what hardware anyone has used for this to attach the holster part to the back plate? I believe the original had threaded parts on the backplate to grab a bolt, but obviously the printed one does not. Technically I could just use long screws to go all the way through to the wood, but i'd rather not. Bolts are out because they would create a gap on the back of the plate.
I actually was lucky enough to still have the metal back plate with threaded holes on my pc10-just no gun or holster. All I had to find was the proper Allen screws/washers to secure it😏
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9461.jpeg
    IMG_9461.jpeg
    260.3 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_9466.jpeg
    IMG_9466.jpeg
    298.4 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_9468.jpeg
    IMG_9468.jpeg
    464.3 KB · Views: 17
@Arcadenut printed this for me; he does amazing work, and super fast!

I'm wondering what hardware anyone has used for this to attach the holster part to the back plate? I believe the original had threaded parts on the backplate to grab a bolt, but obviously the printed one does not. Technically I could just use long screws to go all the way through to the wood, but i'd rather not. Bolts are out because they would create a gap on the back of the plate.

How is it mounted? I can always add threaded inserts into what ever I print.
 
How is it mounted? I can always add threaded inserts into what ever I print.
I believe the back plate is mounted to the cab with carriage bolts (I'll confirm once I get home) and the 6 small holes on the back plate for the holster are threaded. Holster itself are just through holes on mine.
 
Maybe this will be the incentive I need to get a tap and die set :unsure:
 
Looks like two carriage bolts securing the metal back plate to the cabinet, and the cable clamp assembly itself actually pinches the third corner of the back plate against the cab.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2106.jpeg
    IMG_2106.jpeg
    221.3 KB · Views: 13
@Arcadenut printed this for me; he does amazing work, and super fast!

I'm wondering what hardware anyone has used for this to attach the holster part to the back plate? I believe the original had threaded parts on the backplate to grab a bolt, but obviously the printed one does not. Technically I could just use long screws to go all the way through to the wood, but i'd rather not. Bolts are out because they would create a gap on the back of the plate.
You can always add threaded inserts to the backplate.

As an example (from a completely non arcade related project)
1749128021233.png
 
Back
Top Bottom