39" gauntlet legends monitor issue

CraZy Muffin

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Having an issue with a pedestal gauntlet legends. Display has power, but no image for a few minutes until it warms up. Until then, it just randomly flashes on the left and right edge of the screen. Then eventually the picture fades in and looks normal again. Picture is great otherwise.

Cap kit needed? Or flyback issue? Or something else?
Also, any advice for servicing this beast? Only a small access on the back, so looks like it needs to be pulled out the front? This looks like it would be crazy heavy to get out..

Quick video of the issue, only caught one flash before the picture came back. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fz8ycLSDgbrwYWwt5
 
Having an issue with a pedestal gauntlet legends. Display has power, but no image for a few minutes until it warms up. Until then, it just randomly flashes on the left and right edge of the screen. Then eventually the picture fades in and looks normal again. Picture is great otherwise.

Cap kit needed? Or flyback issue? Or something else?
Also, any advice for servicing this beast? Only a small access on the back, so looks like it needs to be pulled out the front? This looks like it would be crazy heavy to get out..

Quick video of the issue, only caught one flash before the picture came back. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fz8ycLSDgbrwYWwt5
pictures, monitor model. necessary information needed.
 
pictures, monitor model. necessary information needed.
Sorry for the delay, just got access to it. Can't find a chassis number, but here's some pictures that maybe can identify.

I also hooked up a VGA to HDMI adapter to a modern LCD to make sure the video output was working as expected. I will likely just use the LCD for now until I get the CRT working again, it had a beautiful image, so definitely want to get it going again.

PXL_20250924_060932789.jpgPXL_20250924_060730439.MP.jpgPXL_20250924_060739934.jpgPXL_20250924_061000277.jpgPXL_20250924_060220544.MP.jpgPXL_20250924_060720559.jpg
 
And it looks like the access hatch on the back is enough to probably remove the chassis, which is amazing, I was not looking forward to dealing with removing the whole monitor.
 
that is the Neotec NT-3501. the caps are original. that monitor requires service. which is probably the reason for your problems with it.

all Neotecs are kind of a pain to get the deflection board out because there's 4 screws, one in each corner. the sheer size of your tube though it looks like you have easier access to the front screws as opposed to the many 25/27" monitors I've had to take apart over the years. lol

the anode should self discharge also, you don't have to worry about that, especially if you don't power it on for a day. you'll need to unplug the yoke and degauss connections and it appears in your case the line filter stays with the monitor frame, so there's the black and white AC connections too. the remote board probably runs into the front door, so you'll need to unplug that, I think the remote board itself may have 3 individual plugs and then you can snake it back to the deflection board side.

PXL_20250924_060739934.jpg
 
So helpful @mecha thanks! So just to clarify, if I were to remove this and send off to someone like Chad at arcadecup, I just send him the bottom board? Or also the yoke board
you would send the deflection board, neckboard, and remote board. all of these together are what we call monitor chassis. lol
 
you would send the deflection board, neckboard, and remote board. all of these together are what we call monitor chassis. lol
Thanks so much for the help!! I guess I always thought the chassis was just the bottom big board. Still learning after all these years.

Anyway it came out nice and easyPXL_20250925_180547078.jpg
 
Thanks so much for the help!! I guess I always thought the chassis was just the bottom big board. Still learning after all these years.

Anyway it came out nice and easyView attachment 849723
you did it, that's everything you need to send to Chad. when you pack it make sure to individually wrap the boards. wrap around the neckboard and then the remote board a few times, then set them on the deflection board and wrap around that a few times.
 
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