33" WG monitor No green

XcALiBrE

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Pic is very blue, or very red. can SORT of balance the colors a little to get a decent picture, but putting the green up or down has NO effect on it what-so-ever. any thoughts on what's up? it's a VGA/CGA capable monitor
 
Color transistor bad? Bad pot?

Might need to be put on a rejuvenator.
I had a 19" Wells that was not displaying red. After a capkit, I tried swapping the color transistors to see if there was a bad one. After that showed no difference, I threw a rejuvenator on it and the red was back. Picture was perfect.
 
"clean" each individual color gun. sometime the guns get dirt on them and the rejuvenator helps with that.
 
you can ground out the collector tabs on each color drive transistor for a brief moment (on the neck board) and watch the screen. If you can see a red, blue and green screen each time you short out each transistor, then your tube is good and you can devote your attention to the chassis, providing you are getting a good signal from the game. Most likely you have a broken solder pad or a bad drive transistor, as these get very hot while the game is on.
 
Would anyone happen to have a picture of what these transistors look like? are they the little black things with heat-sink, or are they the white pieces that look like C-4? lol. also, color guns... what are they?
 
after a quick short of each one, I saw a flash of red, green and blue. is it a problem with the chassis, or should I actually use the rejuve? mine had no adapters when i got it. perhaps I got to get a different one.
 
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after a quick short of each one, I saw a flash of red, green and blue. is it a problem with the chassis, or should I actually use the rejuve? mine had no adapters when i got it. perhaps I got to get a different one.

The tube is fine. You most likely need to replace a CDT. One of the three-legged black things with heatsinks. They should have a model number on their face, just slap that into Digikey or Mouser. You DO have some desoldering experience, right?
 
what kind of 33" WG is this? I didn't catch that.

since you were able to ground and get color more than likely you're probably looking at some lifted traces or separated solder pads somewhere on your color drive transistors.

I documented some fixes I did on a K7000 that could cause what you're experiencing.

you'll see the lifting in this picture:
406822_10100422711549769_30804676_47640814_478511052_n6.jpg


if you scrape the outer green part of the trace, you'll see the brass-looking surface underneath that you can apply solder to. I reconnected the transistor leg to the trace this way. the right circle shows the lifted solder pad there, that transistor flopped back and forth like crazy cause it had no support holding it in place.
401276_10100422711779309_30804676_47640820_1206305333_n.jpg


the right circle, I did the same trace scrape method, but to give the transistor more stability (since there was lifting) I desoldered that leg entirely, bent the transistor leg flat at a 90 degree angle to the surface, and then reapplied solder to give it a good connection.
403339_10100422711859149_30804676_47640822_1619848870_n.jpg


this one's from a WG U5000 that had shitty red. I had the monitor rejuvenated (I know it needed it, I saw the levels on it) but after the rejuve, I still had a very faint red. upon closer inspection I saw some hairline breaks in the traces at the solder pads. for this one, since I never did it before, I decided to all out replace the traces with tinned wire. :) it's very ugly, but it worked, and that's all that really matters to me.
373974_10100311769473579_30804676_47200853_334951403_n.jpg


hope these methods can inspire you to do the same with yours. heh
 
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