3 Tv's for $30.00 Tube Swapping Report Again!

Thomas

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Ok it must have been my lucky day. I walked into a place today that had about 20 old tv's. I was really prepared this time for all the tv buying goodness. Big thanks goes out to all the wonderful posts here on klov. You guys really rock!

Ok I had a flashlight, electrician screwdriver, small socket set & the Bk Precision print out in hand. I was only looking for 19 inch tubes today. However when I get some more money I might go back a lay claim to some of the bigger tubes that were there.

First Tv on the Bench...

1 of 3

Magnavox Model#PR1914 C122
Orion Tube#A48JLL40x40
November 1995

Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 14.0 ohms Low Impedance
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 3.5 ohms
8 Pin Neck Board = CR#31

Now I need to find something in my collection to use this tube on.

Helpful Links...
http://www.8liners.com/datatech/monitor.html
http://www.bkprecision.com/download/documentation/100-CRT.pdf
 

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2 of 3

Hitachi Model#CT1931
Tube#A48AAJ00X
October 1983

Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 56.2 ohms High Impedance
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 3.5 ohms
10 Pin Neck Board = CR#23
 

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3 of 3

Emerson Model#TC1966D
Tube#G-A48ACB32X
November 1992

Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 8.9 ohms Low Impedance
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 3.3 ohms
10 Pin Neck Board = CR#23
 

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I find it interesting that the older 80's Tv's have a lighter grey tube then say the 90's Tv's. Doesn't seem to be no rhyme or reason to it that I can tell.

Well that's it for this weekends haul. I just need to figure out what will fit in the monitors I have. I wish I wouldn't have sold my BK 490. I could have run a test on these to make sure they are good before the swap.

Oh Well...
 

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Nice stuff! I am a bit of a monitor mad scientist myself. I am on the lookout for 25" tubes with 15-16 ohm vert and 3-4 ohm horz, not finding many with that combo yet. Lately I've found some good Phillips and RCA TVs with 7ohm vert and 3ohm horz, work great for WG U2000, manufactured around 95, sorry I trashed the cases and didn't get the models! Seems like if you stick around same manufacture date, you tend to get lucky now and then.
 
Thats cool I picked up 6 19 inch tvs today

Andrew

I find it interesting that the older 80's Tv's have a lighter grey tube then say the 90's Tv's. Doesn't seem to be no rhyme or reason to it that I can tell.

Well that's it for this weekends haul. I just need to figure out what will fit in the monitors I have. I wish I wouldn't have sold my BK 490. I could have run a test on these to make sure they are good before the swap.

Oh Well...
 
Magnavox Model#PR1914 C122
Tube#A48JLL40x40
November 1995

Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 14.0 ohms Low Impedance
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 3.5 ohms
8 Pin Neck Board = CR#31

Couple questions...

I have a newer model Wells Garner 19K7302 chassis. It has the yoke and rings with it. This came to me in a universal mounted frame. See the first picture.

1) Would this chassis work with my cr31 tube above?
2) Can I measure the ohms of a yoke that's not on the tube?
3) How can I make this chassis into a shelf mount setup?
4) If I can't how the heck can I use a universal setup as a shelf mount?

Now in picture two I have a few k7000 chassis...

1) Would this style chassis be a better choice for that cr31 tube I have?
2) How can I tell which k7000 is a 19 inch or 25 inch chassis?

Thanks...
 

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Magnavox Model#PR1914 C122
Tube#A48JLL40x40
November 1995

Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 14.0 ohms Low Impedance
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 3.5 ohms
8 Pin Neck Board = CR#31

I measured the Wells Garner 19K7302 yoke not on the tube. It's kinda close to the cr31 tube that I have.

Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 14.0 ohms Low Impedance
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 2.3 ohms
 
Couple questions...

I have a newer model Wells Garner 19K7302 chassis. It has the yoke and rings with it. This came to me in a universal mounted frame. See the first picture.

1) Would this chassis work with my cr31 tube above?
2) Can I measure the ohms of a yoke that's not on the tube?
3) How can I make this chassis into a shelf mount setup?
4) If I can't how the heck can I use a universal setup as a shelf mount?

Now in picture two I have a few k7000 chassis...

1) Would this style chassis be a better choice for that cr31 tube I have?
2) How can I tell which k7000 is a 19 inch or 25 inch chassis?

Thanks...

Pretty sure the 25" k7000 chassis has the taller heatsink (away from the flyback). the first 2 on the wall are 25" can't see the others.
 
Thanks for the post Bill... I circled in red the first k7000 where I thought you were talking about. Is this the right spot to tell? If it is, I would have three of each.

I have two more I need to id. These are going to be rough to see. However I do have the yoke readings. I will post them in a second...
 

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Pic 1 and 2 Burgertime
----
Tube#19VLTP22
Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 38.2 ohms
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 2.9 ohms
10 Pin Neck Board = CR#23
Says WG499963 the chassis model is not there


Pic 3 and 4 Missile Command
----
Tube#19VLTP22
Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 38.3 ohms
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 2.9 ohms
10 Pin Neck Board = CR#23
Says WG747726 the chassis model 19K4902

Both of these tubes look like ass. Now if I could just make heads or tails out of which donor tube to use and where? The only one for certain to me is the Hitachi for a go7.
 

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Thanks for the post Bill... I circled in red the first k7000 where I thought you were talking about. Is this the right spot to tell? If it is, I would have three of each.

I have two more I need to id. These are going to be rough to see. However I do have the yoke readings. I will post them in a second...


25" K7000 - P538
19" K7000 - P447, though I have seen 13" with the 447 chassis as well.
 
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Thanks for the post Bill... I circled in red the first k7000 where I thought you were talking about. Is this the right spot to tell? If it is, I would have three of each.

I have two more I need to id. These are going to be rough to see. However I do have the yoke readings. I will post them in a second...

correct. thats what I was told. I don't know if its 100% accurate..
 
Pic 1 and 2 Burgertime
----
Tube#19VLTP22
Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 38.2 ohms
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 2.9 ohms
10 Pin Neck Board = CR#23
Says WG499963 the chassis model is not there

This is a Wells-Gardner 4900 series also.

Edward
 
This is a Wells-Gardner 4900 series also.
Edward

Thanks Man!

1 of 3

Magnavox Model#PR1914 C122
Orion Tube#A48JLL40x40
November 1995

Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 14.0 ohms Low Impedance
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 3.5 ohms
8 Pin Neck Board = CR#31

I have almost finished swapping this tube above into my Wells Garner 19K7302 chassis with yoke and purity rings below.

Vertical: Green & Yellow Wires = 14.0 ohms Low Impedance
Horizontal: Blue & Red Wires = 2.3 ohms
8 Pin Neck Board = CR#31

I have a few other questions about this CR31 tube swap.

1) I have a cracked V-Position pot on my remote board. (see pics) Do these have any value to them? Can I just unsolder something close and use it?

2) Do I use rubber cement for the yoke wedges?

3) Do I need to put anything under the anode cup? It is dry after cleaning...

4) After discharging the tube I noticed I scratched it up a little. Is this a problem?

Thanks for your time in advance!
 

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1. The pots do have a specific value and you need to be close. pots are usually marked with a three or four digit number. However, if you don't understand how to read the number the easiest way to ID the pot value is to just use the schematic.

2. They should be glued in place, rubber cement or hot glue have always worked fine for me.

3. The cup shouldn't have anything under it.

4. Those scratches are not a problem.
 
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Thanks Oryk.

Hey I was asking about an adjustment pot. I think you think I was asking about a cap. Nope just a pot...

On the glue front I just got back from wally world with some rubber cement & hot glue w/gun. So I am set.

Thanks...

I am ready to fire this puppy up. Convergence is going to be a bitch if it passes the smoke test!
 
Thanks Oryk.

Hey I was asking about an adjustment pot. I think you think I was asking about a cap. Nope just a pot...

On the glue front I just got back from wally world with some rubber cement & hot glue w/gun. So I am set.

Thanks...

I am ready to fire this puppy up. Convergence is going to be a bitch if it passes the smoke test!


Sorry, I wrote it in a hurry and didn't proofread. I was referring to the pot. Most components have specific values and most of these values are important. In this case you really need a pot that is close in range to the broken one and that is why I suggested looking at the monitor manual.
 
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