3 Ninty boards, 1 problem...GARBAGE!!!

NERDtendo

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Donor 2011
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Eight Ball Action on a Donkey Kong Junior board:

8BALLACTIONGARBAGE.jpg


Original Donkey Kong:

DKGARBAGE.jpg


Donkey Kong Junior:

DKJRGARBAGE.jpg



Any ideas??? All boards were tested in my wrking original Donkey Kong cab using original hook-ups so the problem is definitely something with the boards. From the looks of the issues, it is the same problem with every board.
 
Do you have a eprom burner? If you do read the Eproms and then save them. After you have saved them verify them in winromident. WinRomIdent will tell you which roms are bad. Sometimes I've seen that the 2114 ram has caused these issues too. Try piggybacking some 2114 ram and see if you notice a change. This would be a good place to start.
 
Do you have a eprom burner?
No I don't. I would like to get one eventually.


Sometimes I've seen that the 2114 ram has caused these issues too. Try piggybacking some 2114 ram and see if you notice a change. This would be a good place to start.

I don't usully deal with chassis/video inverters/audio boards, PCBs, and power supply rebuilds. How does one "piggyback" the RAM??? I know where to get the 2114 but is it something I will be needing my soldering iron for??? I am assuming so since the 2P chip is not socketed.
 
piggybacking refers to placing a good chip directly on top of a suspect chip where the legs are in contact with the legs of the other chip.Thus the term piggyback.There is no soldering involved unless the chips are bad. Pay attention to the Cpu board at locations 3A+3B and 4A+4B these are 2114 ram locations and go bad.
 
piggybacking refers to placing a good chip directly on top of a suspect chip where the legs are in contact with the legs of the other chip.Thus the term piggyback.There is no soldering involved unless the chips are bad.

Good deal. Thank you for the information. I had figured to look at the 2114 RAM but wasn't sure. I don't have any chips on hand as I cannot solder so I guess I will have to wait to work on these, get someone to work on these, or sell them off as-is.
 
Why go through all that trouble?

The first thing to check would be the sockets. Especially the CPU sockets...

Corrosion there is common and those single wipe sockets only make contact with the inner surface of the chip legs.

Also when you remove that kit you'll probably have to replace the CPU socket.

RJ
 
Why go through all that trouble?

The first thing to check would be the sockets. Especially the CPU sockets...

Corrosion there is common and those single wipe sockets only make contact with the inner surface of the chip legs.

Also when you remove that kit you'll probably have to replace the CPU socket.

RJ

Totally agree, When I get a board doing anything like that the first thing I do is pull each chip and clean the legs with an eraser, then I use deoxIT on the pins and reinsert. I have fixed a few boards that way. The cheapest source of deoxIT is at Radio Shack part # 64-057 about $6. They sell deoxIT there too, but it is such a tiny can.


http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3511774


This is the best to buy though $14:

http://www.all-spec.com/products/D100L-2DB.html?gclid=COKZuOr51asCFVPGKgodI0HCbg
 
Totally agree, When I get a board doing anything like that the first thing I do is pull each chip and clean the legs with an eraser, then I use deoxIT on the pins and reinsert. I have fixed a few boards that way.

This is the best to buy though $14:

http://www.all-spec.com/products/D100L-2DB.html?gclid=COKZuOr51asCFVPGKgodI0HCbg

Eplain how to use it like I'm retarded. Start to finish. I've been meaning to get this but didn't want to get in the lake without knowing how to swim.
 
Eplain how to use it like I'm retarded. Start to finish. I've been meaning to get this but didn't want to get in the lake without knowing how to swim.

It is so easy, just use the applicator brush and "Paint" the cleaner on the pins, then reinsert in socket while still "wet" It will remove oxidation on the pins and the socket. I still pre-clean the pins with an eraser till they are for the most part not black (oxidized) any more.
 
It is so easy, just use the applicator brush and "Paint" the cleaner on the pins, then reinsert in socket while still "wet" It will remove oxidation on the pins and the socket. I still pre-clean the pins with an eraser till they are for the most part not black (oxidized) any more.

Will it remove rust from pins that are soldered in place???
 
It is so easy, just use the applicator brush and "Paint" the cleaner on the pins, then reinsert in socket while still "wet" It will remove oxidation on the pins and the socket. I still pre-clean the pins with an eraser till they are for the most part not black (oxidized) any more.

Will it remove rust from pins that are soldered in place???

EDIT* Internet glitched and posted this twice.
 
Last edited:
Quit worrying about rust on pins that are soldered in place.

If the rust is bridging 2 pins then hit it with a stiff toothbrush to knock it off the chip.

The only way the rust would bother anything is if it's inhibiting contact in a socket, bridging pins (which is something I've never seen in all the repairs I've done) or if it travels up the leg inside the chip body... (which is something I've seen ONCE in all my repairs)

RJ
 
I am stopping all big projects and only working on my Asahi Seiko stuff until I get back from my hospital/KLOV sabbatical. I will resume my work on these at the end of November. I had a killer time trying to test these out yesterday and after my trip to Baltimore I can get back on some meds to help me get moving during the day.

Also, I will have my DeOxIt by then.
 
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