3.6v battery replacement

Nerbflong

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Have several games that need 3.6 batteries fixed/installed in them and I was wondering what the best course of action is on this.

Do the lithium 3.6's work well? Do they really last a long time?

Or is it better to install a battery holder and change out the batteries every year?

I'm assuming both options require a blocking diode.

If Lithium batteries are the best option, where's a good place to pick some up? What sort of shelf life do they have?
 
Which games? You might want to just put non-volatile RAMs in and be done with batteries....

That would be ideal! Just too many different games though. First on the list would be Rapid Fire and D&D pinball, then Omega Race, Spy Hunter! (tried one Simtek solution that didnt work), Theatre of Magic, even the NeoGeo would be awesome.
 
On the pinballs, and even the Spy Hunter, you can just pick up a 3.6v Nicd rechargeable cordless phone battery and put that in. Easy to connect (if you can solder)....
 
That would be ideal! Just too many different games though. First on the list would be Rapid Fire and D&D pinball, then Omega Race, Spy Hunter! (tried one Simtek solution that didnt work), Theatre of Magic, even the NeoGeo would be awesome.

simteks are too fast for MCR games... they'll catch glitches on the bus and interpret them as writes....

They work fine on omega race and pins though....
 
simteks are too fast for MCR games... they'll catch glitches on the bus and interpret them as writes....

They work fine on omega race and pins though....


I'd love to put the simteks in my pins and Omega race, but where and which simteks? I have no clue. And where to get them? :D

Will just do the cordless battery thing for the MCR's, thanks modessitt
 
Dallas 1220Y works fine on MCRs if you don't want to worry about battery packs.

I've got 2kx8 simteks with adapters to replace 5101s... newer pins require larger simteks, which you should still be available from the mfg. As long as you get ones with 'autostore' w/ JEDEC pinouts, you should be fine. Some of the lower end models require external caps and have more pins than the standard JEDEC pacakge.
 
On the pinballs, and even the Spy Hunter, you can just pick up a 3.6v Nicd rechargeable cordless phone battery and put that in. Easy to connect (if you can solder)....

I like using battery backup capacitors. I usually use 1F, 5.5v but I did use a 3F, 5.5v hulk in our old Baby Pac-Man. No real point I guess because NiCds are easier but that's what I started with when I got into the hobby and it's just stuck. ;)
 
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On the pinballs, and even the Spy Hunter, you can just pick up a 3.6v Nicd rechargeable cordless phone battery and put that in. Easy to connect (if you can solder)....
I just did this on my Spy Hunter last Friday. Works great. I soldered header pins to the power supply so I can unplug the phone battery if I need to.
 
Dallas 1220Y works fine on MCRs if you don't want to worry about battery packs.

I've got 2kx8 simteks with adapters to replace 5101s... newer pins require larger simteks, which you should still be available from the mfg. As long as you get ones with 'autostore' w/ JEDEC pinouts, you should be fine. Some of the lower end models require external caps and have more pins than the standard JEDEC pacakge.

So whats the simtek with adapter cost shipped? Does that only work on the Bally 35 mpu? Anything for the bally 6803 mpu? =)
 
So whats the simtek with adapter cost shipped? Does that only work on the Bally 35 mpu? Anything for the bally 6803 mpu? =)

I'd imagine they'd work on anything that uses a 5101 RAM...Bally -35 MPU, -17 MPU, Defender CPU, etc. The 6803 doesn't use a 5101. A Simtek should drop right in....no adapter necessary.

Edward
 
I'd imagine they'd work on anything that uses a 5101 RAM...Bally -35 MPU, -17 MPU, Defender CPU, etc. The 6803 doesn't use a 5101. A Simtek should drop right in....no adapter necessary.

Edward

Won't work on any board that actively uses both chip enables. Definitely won't work on a Gottlieb without some active logic added to the adapter.

Ed
 
Won't work on any board that actively uses both chip enables. Definitely won't work on a Gottlieb without some active logic added to the adapter.

How do you know mine doesn't have active logic added? :)

Not familiar with the 6803 boards... but I can pull schems and see what's up.
 
How do you know mine doesn't have active logic added? :)

Not familiar with the 6803 boards... but I can pull schems and see what's up.

Actually, I don't. I had another board maker's version in mind when I wrote that....

Ed
 
How do you know mine doesn't have active logic added? :)

Not familiar with the 6803 boards... but I can pull schems and see what's up.

Peeking at the 6803 board right next to the battery is a srm2016c, is that the chip that should be a simtek or something with battery backup? I'd love to do this to my d&d pin and skip the battery!

And still need a price on a replacement simtek for the MPU-35 MPU
 
I just did this on my Spy Hunter last Friday. Works great. I soldered header pins to the power supply so I can unplug the phone battery if I need to.

So you have the battery mounted off the board then?

That's what I did - it's sitting on a plastic holder in a plastic baggie mounted about 2 feet away from the linear power board.

Next time I have to unplug the main boards and do something with them I'll consider popping some kind of NVRAM in there. Otherwise I'll just replace the battery every couple of years.
 
it's sitting on a plastic holder in a plastic baggie mounted about 2 feet away from the linear power board.

I think you have it covered! :D Mine is off the board, but not far enough. I'm going to grab some fan/led wires from an old PC case and move the batteries a little further away when I have a chance.
 
I think you have it covered! :D Mine is off the board, but not far enough. I'm going to grab some fan/led wires from an old PC case and move the batteries a little further away when I have a chance.

I think it's all about containment if the new battery leaks... I want it far away and I actually have mine in 2 baggies. Right now it's soldered onto long wires which are soldered onto the linear power board.

When I replace this battery I have the proper molex plugs that I'll put on the wire so all future batteries will just plug right in. :)

Of course, if my Spy Hunter boardset keeps acting up I'll have to pull it anyway and then it'll get NVRAMed so I don't keep losing high scores...
 
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