2N3792 AND 2N3716 horizontal/vertical ??

sohchx

Active member
Joined
May 12, 2007
Messages
3,755
Reaction score
11
Location
frederick, Maryland
I bought two of each of these Deflection transistors for my vector game and I am wanting to know,which ones go on the horizontal heat sink ,and which ones go on the vertical?
 
If you bought 2 of each, you install them in pairs (one 2N3792 AND one 2N3716 for horizontal, and one 2N3792 AND one 2N3716 for vertical). If you look at existing, you should notice that you have the same two transistors in the horizontal as you have in the vertical... one is the NPN and one is the PNP)
 
Last edited:
If you bought 2 of each, you install them in pairs (one 2N3792 AND one 2N371 (i'm guessing this should be 2N3791) for horizontal, and one 2N3792 AND one 2N3791 for vertical). If you look at existing, you should notice that you have the same two transistors in the horizontal as you have in the vertical... one is the NPN and one is the PNP)

Someone must have installed different ones at one point because they do not match between both heat sinks. Pics below
 

Attachments

  • craigslistandebay 209.jpg
    craigslistandebay 209.jpg
    82.3 KB · Views: 26
  • craigslistandebay 210.jpg
    craigslistandebay 210.jpg
    82.8 KB · Views: 22
OK, the two on the heat sinks labeled SK3836 get replaced with 2N3716

The 2N5876 (which is original) and the SYL ECG285 get replaced with 2N3792

Looks like someone didnt do the recommended "replace in pairs" option.
 
awwwwwwww I already did what you said first and put one of each on both heatsinks. Please tell me this is correct before I fire this thing up.
 
awwwwwwww I already did what you said first and put one of each on both heatsinks. Please tell me this is correct before I fire this thing up.

well yes... one of each of the two transistors you got goes on each heatsink (one 2N3716 and one 2N3792) goes to the horizontal heatsink and one of each goes to the vertical. That being said, they need to be in the correct spot on each of the heatsinks, per my 2nd post

OK, the two on the heat sinks labeled SK3836 get replaced with 2N3716

The 2N5876 (which is original) and the SYL ECG285 get replaced with 2N3792
The SK3836 transistors ..you had one on each heat sink... replace each SK3836 with a 2N3716 in the same spot it was in. Then you had a 2N5876 on one Heat sink and an SYL ECG285 on the other. Replace each of those with a 2N3792 in the same spot it was in.
 
Okay then I have a problem, I do not remember which spot any of the old ones were installed before I put the new ones in. Why do they not have a stamp or something on these things for designation? The only difference I can see is on the underside of each heatsink, red ,white and orange to one socket, blue, black and green to another.
 
Last edited:
OK, 2N3716 goes to the plug with Red, White and Orange wires, 2N3792 connects to the harness with the blue, black and green wires.

page 82 of the first manual below shows that wiring but references 2N5876 (replacement is 2N3792... this is the PNP) and 2N5878 (replacement is 2N3716 ... this is the NPN). You can verify the replacement transistors by looking at the cross reference chart in the 2nd link on page 52.

http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/S/StarCastle.pdf

http://www.ataricade.com/CINE_FAQ_V096.pdf
 
Last edited:
Okay now, before I try this again I wanted to make sure that the orientation is correct for the monitor being used if thats important. The monitor reads... Amperex Type M50-102W. Is this the original factory monitor? Everything else in the cab is Cinematronics. I am asking since you asked if the monitor was Cinemetronics.
 
that's the exact same monitor I have in my Star Castle. if you follow the previous post (matching wire colors up with the proper transistor), you're good to go. You cant put the transistor itself into the socket upside down, the screws wont line up. Also, make sure you use the new mica spacer that came with the transistor (or if you didnt get one, make sure to re-use the old one). You don't want the transistor touching the metal of the heatsink.

You can double check this by looking at the two links I gave you, but that's where I got the info, and I just replaced the bottlecaps on my Star Castle last week with no problem.
 
I have those FAQ's from outerworld arcade. Everything is in the correct positions now. Did you do the revisions to the pcb for replacement of the caps,resistors,diodes, etc.? I did it last night but ran out of components to finish because of late mail.
 
I haven't done the diodes or the 820ohm resistors on the DACs yet... But did everything else and it turned out gorgeous. I plan on doing the 820ohm upgrade once I get clarification in the proper trace to cut (the schematic doesn't match the board)
 
is it absolutely nescessary? I did these upgrades because R119 burned up and I got nothing but a solid white screen or a bright dot in the screens center, also CB's 1 and 2 were always tripping.. Hopefully all this work pays off and it powers up with no isssue. This is my first and only vector cab so the suspense is killing me. Sorry if I was difficult in any way while helping me correct the install, I really appreciate all of the help.
 
Well,all of the components recommended have been replaced and just as I suspected I am having the same problems only difference being that now only breaker 1 is tripping instead of both and I still have the screens pictured below. Also sometimes I get the words PLAYER ONE accross the screen at power up ,but only for a split second.
 

Attachments

  • craigslistandebay 211.jpg
    craigslistandebay 211.jpg
    84.8 KB · Views: 3
  • craigslistandebay 212.jpg
    craigslistandebay 212.jpg
    85.6 KB · Views: 3
  • craigslistandebay 213.jpg
    craigslistandebay 213.jpg
    78.8 KB · Views: 3
  • craigslistandebay 214.jpg
    craigslistandebay 214.jpg
    86.4 KB · Views: 4
Check page 35 of the 2nd manual I listed above. It has a troubleshooter for when a monitor trips the breakers. You're going a lot deeper than I had to. One thing..make certain that your bottlecaps (the transistors you replaced..the ones that are the title of this thread) are not touching the heatsink. you do not want to create a short. Other than that, follow the guide with a diode test next.
 
Check page 35 of the 2nd manual I listed above. It has a troubleshooter for when a monitor trips the breakers. You're going a lot deeper than I had to. One thing..make certain that your bottlecaps (the transistors you replaced..the ones that are the title of this thread) are not touching the heatsink. you do not want to create a short. Other than that, follow the guide with a diode test next.

I checked the transistors there is 0 continuity as they should be.
 
Back
Top Bottom