2mf elctrolytic caps??

Riptor

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I just recapped the sqwalk & talk board in my pinball and there was a couple 2mf caps on there. I metered the originals at 1.85 mf and replaced them with 2.2 since I didnt have the 2mf. The board is working fine but wanted to see others opinions on it.
 
i keep hearing, you can go up on the voltage but you cant go up on the uf/mf.
is a transistor or chip getting real hot? i guess if its working, fine but the calculation the engineers made when making the circuit, determined the 2mf cap.
me? id replace with what was there. on some of these big electrolytic caps i run into and need to replace, i cant find the exact value. the technician i talk to says that if you stay within 10%, then you will be ok.
doesnt bob roberts replace a 560uf 200v with a 600uf 200v ?
 
i keep hearing, you can go up on the voltage but you cant go up on the uf/mf.
is a transistor or chip getting real hot? i guess if its working, fine but the calculation the engineers made when making the circuit, determined the 2mf cap.
me? id replace with what was there. on some of these big electrolytic caps i run into and need to replace, i cant find the exact value. the technician i talk to says that if you stay within 10%, then you will be ok.
doesnt bob roberts replace a 560uf 200v with a 600uf 200v ?

You can go up on voltage AND uf's depending on the application. If its a timing circuit that's sensitive to the components in the circuit then you have to try to stick as close as you can in uf's. If its a filter circuit you can generally go higher in uf's without any issues. Just don't go crazy. Dont replace a 100mf cap with a 10,000 mf cap.

Matt
 
I guess these caps werent that critical since the machines working fine. Caps are usually +/- 10% so I figured the extra .2 should be close enough.
 
If it's an audio path in the circuit you might notice a slight change in frequency response if you go too far off, otherwise you'll be fine.

2.2 vs. 2.0 is negligible unless it's in a timing circuit like on a 74LS123

RJ
 
2uf caps arn't made anymore (though, you might be able to find some surplus). 2.2uf is totally acceptable replacement. 2.2uf is what comes in GPE's cap kits.

Edward
 
I just recapped the sqwalk & talk board in my pinball and there was a couple 2mf caps on there. I metered the originals at 1.85 mf and replaced them with 2.2 since I didnt have the 2mf. The board is working fine but wanted to see others opinions on it.

2.2uF cap will be fine as they're used as DC blockers on this board.
2uF caps are no longer made and have been replaced by 2.2uF.
In the old days - electrolytic caps had tolerances as much as +/-50%.
Most new caps have a tolerance of +/-20% except for the cheapie chinese caps.

-- Ed
 
You can still get 2uf caps from Big Daddy as part of the squawk and talk cap kit.

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/bally_kits.htm#b-snt1

b-sntcaps1.jpg


I'm not saying the replacements you used won't work, but just putting this out there so people know a place to get a rebuild kit for those boards with all the axial cap goodness. :cool2:

7 ea. 1uF 50V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C19, C24, C25, C28, C31, C34, C42)
2 ea. 2uF 50V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C36 & C43)
1 ea. 10uF 50V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C15)
1 ea. 47uF 25V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C1)
2 ea. 330uF 50V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C37 & C38)
1 ea. 470uF 16V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C29)
1 ea. 1000uF 25V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C27)
1 ea. 4700uF 35V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C14) (Optional, see below)
2 ea. 4.7uF 25V Dipped Tantalum Capacitor (C16 & C22)
 
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I dont know if I would use old surplus caps on any of my boards. Not sure about the 2uf but that big blue sprauge looks like its vintage. Wonder why he includes the tantalums in the kit, they dont typically go bad right?
 
I dont know if I would use old surplus caps on any of my boards. Not sure about the 2uf but that big blue sprauge looks like its vintage. Wonder why he includes the tantalums in the kit, they dont typically go bad right?

What is making you think they are all surplus? That Sprague doesn't look vintage to me. The vintage ones are not wrapped in blue like that. Here is what the vintage ones look like.

b-c26.jpg


I think Sprague just likes to not clutter the wrap on the part.

Edit: You can still buy 2uF axial caps from Sprague through Mouser.

http://mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=75-TE1301-E3
 
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Im not saying that cap is old surplus, just looks like it to me. Ask him to give you the date code off it.

I have played a few dozen games with the 2uf caps in place and everything seems to be working great.
 
I dont know if I would use old surplus caps on any of my boards. Not sure about the 2uf but that big blue sprauge looks like its vintage. Wonder why he includes the tantalums in the kit, they dont typically go bad right?

You'll also find kits for these boards here:
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY-STE-KIT

ONLY NEW caps are used in these kits - never old or NOS caps. Plus - no unknown Chinese branded caps - only Nichicon in this kit.

Here's the list:
C1:
Original = Axial Electrolytic 47uF, 16 Volt
Kit = Axial Electrolytic 47uF, 25 Volt

C14:
Original = Axial Electrolytic 4700uF, 25 Volt
Kit = Axial Electrolytic 4700uF, 25 Volt

C15:
Original = Axial Electrolytic 10uF, 16 Volt
Kit = Axial Electrolytic 10uF, 50 Volt

C19, C24, C25, C28, C31, C34 and C42 (7 capacitors):
Original = Axial Electrolytic 1uF, 25 Volt
Kit = Axial Electrolytic 1uF, 50 Volt

C27:
Original = Axial Electrolytic 1000uF, 16 Volt
Kit = Axial Electrolytic 1000uF, 25 Volt

C29:
Original = Axial Electrolytic 470uF, 6.3 Volt
Kit = Axial Electrolytic 470uF, 16 Volt

C36 and C43 (2 capacitors):
Original = Axial Electrolytic 2uF, 16 Volt
Kit = Axial Electrolytic 2.2uF, 50 Volt

C37 and C38 (2 capacitors):
Original = Axial Electrolytic 330uF, 50 Volt
Kit = Axial Electrolytic 330uF, 50 Volt

The 2.2uF versus 2uF difference doesn't matter.

Ed
 

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Ed, what are you using for the two large caps on the solenoid driver board?
I was going to order them from your site but I think your out of stock if I remember right?
My games working fine, just thought since I replaced all the other caps may as well do them all at the same time. Maybe I will just wait until I place another order with you. I prefer to do large orders to save on shipping.
 
Ed, what are you using for the two large caps on the solenoid driver board?
I was going to order them from your site but I think your out of stock if I remember right?
My games working fine, just thought since I replaced all the other caps may as well do them all at the same time. Maybe I will just wait until I place another order with you. I prefer to do large orders to save on shipping.

I have new axial 150uF, 350V caps for the high voltage supply.

For the low voltage supply, I normally have two choices:
1 -- computer grade cap, 12000uF, 25V but these are sold out. Sprague has hiked their prices every time I bought these with the latest hike being the biggest. Looking into other manufacturers for these now.
2 -- I also have a regular, radial style 12000uF, 25V cap. You can bend the leads at a 90 degree angle at about 1/4" from cap, solder it down and ziptie it to the SDB like the original cap. This turns out looking quite nice, actually.

Ed
 
2uf

Your fine. most of the time when you check caps the value is fine but the ESR is what you need to check as it starts to act like a resitor in series with the cap and starts messing up your board.
 
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