27" Sharp image

mikdawg

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I have this monitor with no neck glow. I have 120 coming into the chasis, fuse is good, and the solder joints look good.

It is the same chasis as this one (sticker is gone but says 27" RCA-TW Blue Yoke)

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=61746

and I read how the x-ray may cause the HV to shut down. Should i tweek that pod? What other trouble shooting tips can I do?

Thanks for the help
 
Have not done a cap kit yet. Would the caps cause it not to have neck glow? Will I get a reading from the B+ if I do not have neck glow? Here is a pics also of my chasis.

Also, I am looking at cap kits. With this chasis not labeled, am I to assume it is a 27" color cap kit? Did the 629 dsr, 727 duel scan, or ktmf-264m come in a 27 in monitor?
 

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Si-434ds

Ground to heatsink red probe
to band side of D810 use jumper clipon
measure then unplug and cap it.
Mark where B+ control is set at VR801
d810 under yoke connectors thats why i said use a jumper
so it stay connected while testing B+
try it there first i need to look at a schematic
for recommended TP from Factory.
You need High Voltage first i believe heater comes from the fly.
Does it have static charge when pluged in?
What game is this being used in?
Mine was in the chassis pile.
Have to check around for a cap kit
for this model. Good Luck
 

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Well tested the B+ and had nothing. Had the meter on DC and tried both side of D 810 just to be sure. I will order a cap kit but still not sure what chassis this is? I have looked at pics of other ones and they all look the same. What is the difference?
 
Well tested the B+ and had nothing. Had the meter on DC and tried both side of D 810 just to be sure. I will order a cap kit but still not sure what chassis this is? I have looked at pics of other ones and they all look the same. What is the difference?
What is different about your's?
Ok. another way besides the way it looks is what parts are being used..
Like the HOT part #,The Signal/sync IC the Horiz-vert Drive IC the Flyback #
Mosfet used in the powersupply..part location's

If the caps haven't been changed before then change them however you can do it.
If no dc i would rebuild the powersupply first.
You don't need high voltage to make a powersupply work.
Common sense is the caps first if there no shorts on the B+
Ofcoarse thats easy, use your ohm meter,where ever voltage should be there
shouldn't be a short..
The big filter cap has to have dc on it at plugin the smps doesn't have to work
check there for about 150v's,it comes from the bridge diodes then to the cap
for dc filtering its a must to have to get anything out of the smps!
use the neg-side of cap for ground then measure the + side of cap c815
do you have about 150V??
 
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