25k7184 with black box

cwales

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K25k7184 in lethal enforcers - double image in mirror (was flyback black box question

I have a WG 25k7184 with that black box (capacitor?) as talked about in this thread:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=88626&highlight=25k7184

I am rebuilding it and there's a popping noise that makes the picture jump so I was thinking flyback. It's not a zenith but since it has this black box going to the suction cup, there's two red wires... I can easily just put a normal flyback in and forget about the black box.. But this is a lethal enforcers so does it need that box to prevent picture jumping? Will it work without it? I'm also having trouble getting the guns to work, but I figured a stable monitor is important to that so this comes first. After a while the picture gets all stretched On the bottom and compacted at the top like this:



And here is a picture of what I'm talking about:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336236926.716169.jpg

So what should I do? Leave the flyback in and look for cold solder? Replace the flyback and ignore the black box?

Ideas? :)

TIA
 
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i would replace it and see where it goes.

that flickering is not good and looks like your fly is going bad replace it before it blows other parts.

do a full cap kit including the filter cap. re-flow the chassis and the neck board.

you may also need to test the tube to see if it is weak and if it is that may be your gun problem.

adjust your contrast and black levels correctly and your color drives.

i have not seen a problem with the new fly's and gun games after replacing the fly without the black box.

but keep it around till you get it all adjusted.

Peace
Buffett
 
Already reflowed everything, doing the cap kit now.. Thanks for the answer, I'll do the flyback while I have everything pulled, that's what I was leaning towards... I can see some leakage on it...
 
Flyback went fine, thanks again for the info. The picture looks great after adjusting, but I'm having issues with a double image on white text. I can get rid of it by adjusting brightness, black level and contrast but then it's just too dark. Funny thing is hat it looks fine on the monitor, not on he mirror. Moving he mirror around makes no change. It also looks fine at a distance. Like as far as he gun will reach.


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336271243.706068.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336271329.445001.jpg

You can't see it great in these pictures, but you can see its sharper in the non-mirror picture.
 
looking excellent

cool the fly has fixed your focus and snapping issue.

did you set all the pots on the chassis and the neck board to their center positions.

that includes the brightness and contrast pots.

adjust the screen contro on your flyl till your raster lines are gone and you have a black background. then adjust your contrast up to where it does not smear. then fine tune it with the brightness pot.

then adjust your neck cutoff's and gains if needed.

i have had luck in doing it this way with every monitor i adjust.
but sometimes the tube is tired and it needs a rejuve to bring back a color or brightness level.

other wise i would adjust it till it looks good in game and leave it there.

i am also not fond of mirror games. but i adjust it clear so when you see it in the mirror it is crisp and clear.
also clean the mirror it gets real dirty. and the face of the tube.

hope this helps.

Peace
Buffett
 
Buffet, thanks a lot for all the tips. It's looking good now. I need to do some reading on gun issues now.
 
glad its looking great.

happy to help!!!

you may need to recalibrate the guns on this new monitor.:)

Peace
Buffett
 
glad its looking great.

happy to help!!!

you may need to recalibrate the guns on this new monitor.:)

Peace
Buffett

argh. had to replace a K7000 with another one I bought here and threw one of my new flybacks on it, convergence is F-ed on it now. pisses me off, cause for the tube's age the guns are still strong. back when Zenith knew wtf they were doing.

my rings still have the original glue on them though. possibility they all got rotated at once? would that even make a difference?
 
Ok, another question. In trying to get the picture centered, I realized there is a part of he monitor not displaying anything.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336310382.581225.jpg

This is a little extreme because I moved the picture all the way over so you can see the shape not displaying. If you move it over I looks fine and sharp. The picture just will not fill this odd, jagged shape on the side. It's fine if you don't want to use the left inch and a half of the screen by making the picture smaller but there must be a solution? 50/60 does not help.

I'm also having a degauss issue in one corner, tried to use a drill but it comes right back.
 
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argh. had to replace a K7000 with another one I bought here and threw one of my new flybacks on it, convergence is F-ed on it now. pisses me off, cause for the tube's age the guns are still strong. back when Zenith knew wtf they were doing.

my rings still have the original glue on them though. possibility they all got rotated at once? would that even make a difference?

sure anything is possible.

are they loose in any way.

yes if the whole ring assembly is rotated it will throw off convergence.

have they slipped back or forward on the neck.

is the yoke loose or wobbly.
or has it slipped back or forward on the neck.




Ok, another question. In trying to get the picture centered, I realized there is a part of he monitor not displaying anything.

View attachment 108177

This is a little extreme because I moved the picture all the way over so you can see the shape not displaying. If you move it over I looks fine and sharp. The picture just will not fill this odd, jagged shape on the side. It's fine if you don't want to use the left inch and a half of the screen by making the picture smaller but there must be a solution? 50/60 does not help.

I'm also having a degauss issue in one corner, tried to use a drill but it comes right back.

for the degauss i would move the game around to see if anything in the wall is affecting it.
you may need a real coil to get rid of it.

on the off chance how is your synk hooked up.
i have seen this kinda thing happen when the H&V were combined.
you should be only using pin 10 for synk.

the 50/60htz pot will not affect this.

i have also seen this kinda thing happen when the H-Hold and H-POS pots were not adjusted correctly.

also if you can check your tube with a different chassis or a rejuve that may rule it out.

Peace
Buffett
 
I'll order a real coil and try that. I've moved it all over with no change. I don't have access to a rejuvenator.

I do have to chassis that I bought in unknown condition, I should test those anyhow.

Here's a picture of he sync wires:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336323443.462769.jpg
 
OK the plot thickens!!

it looks like your synk is correct, but with out a straight on pic its kind of hard to tell looks like you have it off set by one pin. which would be correct.

now question did you cap that pincussin board. it appers that you have not.

it may be part of your problem. cap it and see if the image changes.
or you may need to adjust it but i would not think so.

also try removing it and see if the chassis workes without it or not.
it may, it may not. i have heard of it working both ways and then not so who knows.

and for shit's and giggles try combining the two synk pins and see what you get. just move the connector to the left and that should do it.

i am not a big fan of those add on cards wells used. there is no documentation on them, and i have never seen a game that needed them.

also be sure to re-flow that whole card and the pins and header pins that connects it to the chassis.


Peace
Buffett
 
OK the plot thickens!!

it looks like your synk is correct, but with out a straight on pic its kind of hard to tell looks like you have it off set by one pin. which would be correct.

now question did you cap that pincussin board. it appers that you have not.

it may be part of your problem. cap it and see if the image changes.
or you may need to adjust it but i would not think so.

also try removing it and see if the chassis workes without it or not.
it may, it may not. i have heard of it working both ways and then not so who knows.

and for shit's and giggles try combining the two synk pins and see what you get. just move the connector to the left and that should do it.

i am not a big fan of those add on cards wells used. there is no documentation on them, and i have never seen a game that needed them.

also be sure to re-flow that whole card and the pins and header pins that connects it to the chassis.


Peace
Buffett

pincussin board. I had no idea what that thing was, I've worked on several k7000's but never a 25" and I figured it was something to do with that. I didn't change it's cap, no. It's also got a lot of jumper wires on he back side of its pins like there were some issues someone addressed. I did reflow the solder on this when I had it out.

I'll try messing with it and report back.
 
I removed that board, adjusted the 50/60 and it's square now!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336327989.834117.jpg

Hot diggity.

Now it's crisp, bright and square. :)

Thanks once again!
 
congrats on finding the problem.

congrats on finding the problem.

always happy to help.

good luck on the next one.

Peace
Buffett
 
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