25K7000A in HV shutdown

kilgers

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Pulled the k7000a out of my friends Battletoads and sent it down to my brother to get recapped. But the cap kit did not include C36. I feel like I should probably replace that as well. The b+ was reading at around 180v before we pulled it out, no power getting to the tube. The flyback looks to be in good shape, but what can I do to actually test it? Should I replace everything else that could be causing this first? Besides the HOT and C36, any other possible culprits?

Any advice would be much appreciated by this complete n00b. Sorry I don't have pictures, but I won't get the board back til tomorrow.
 
C36 isn't an electrolytic cap, and won't gt replaced with a cap kit. If it doesn't test as shorted, then leave it alone. Same with the HOT (measure with black on center leg and red on each of the other legs).

Look over the entire thing for cold solder.

And hope the flyback is good. There are no replacements except from other like chassis...
 
It's a polypropelene cap isn't it? Don't have the manual in front of me. I wasn't surprised that it didn't come with the cap kit. Those don't dry out like an electrolytic cap will, do they?

I instructed my bro to reflow anything that was cracked or dull. Other than that I'm pretty much trying to leave everything alone as much as possible.

I think I may have forgotten to check one of the resistors (103?). The fuse wasn't blown, and other than the degauss it made no sparks or noise on start-up. Well other than game noise. It does play blind. Anything else I may have missed?
 
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