25K7000 series basic flyback replacement advice

Evewalker

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So after doing a full cap kit, I'm about to attempt my first flyback replacement on a WG25k7184 (I think, the identification sticker is missing). Since I've read that some of these might have had a different flyback, and the one I'm replacing it with looks a bit different (even though it got it through Bob as normal for the K7000 series.), I wanted to check to make sure before I drop it in.

Secondly, is there any specific procedure to go about or keep in mind when replacing the flyback? I see there are two wires connecting to plastic connectors on the neckboard from of the existing flyback. What is usually the best way of connecting up a new one?

Finally, is it even worth doing the flyback replacement now even though the existing flyback doesn't look like it is that bad of a state? The monitor problem which I figured require capping was some vertically rolling shadow on the left side of the screen, but based upon what people have said here, old flybacks have a tendency to go after a full cap kit, so I assumed it would be a good habit to get into.

So, sorry for the noob questions. Thanks, folks. :)
 
So after doing a full cap kit, I'm about to attempt my first flyback replacement on a WG25k7184 (I think, the identification sticker is missing). Since I've read that some of these might have had a different flyback, and the one I'm replacing it with looks a bit different (even though it got it through Bob as normal for the K7000 series.), I wanted to check to make sure before I drop it in.

Well, you haven't told us the number on your old flyback and the number on your new flyback, so I can't tell you if they are compatible or not.

Secondly, is there any specific procedure to go about or keep in mind when replacing the flyback? I see there are two wires connecting to plastic connectors on the neckboard from of the existing flyback. What is usually the best way of connecting up a new one?

One wire to the neckboard should just unplug. The other on the socket should either pull out after lifting the tension snap, or will unsolder after sliding off the cover on the back of the socket (I can't remember). You'll also find it easier to remove the flyback if you remove the screw holding the metal bracket cover to the left side of the frame.

Finally, is it even worth doing the flyback replacement now even though the existing flyback doesn't look like it is that bad of a state? The monitor problem which I figured require capping was some vertically rolling shadow on the left side of the screen, but based upon what people have said here, old flybacks have a tendency to go after a full cap kit, so I assumed it would be a good habit to get into.

So, sorry for the noob questions. Thanks, folks. :)

A K7000 flyback isn't known for blowing after a cap kit. That would be a G07 that does that. If your chassis looks fine with the cap kit, you could save the flyback for a later date. If your old flyback shows tiny hairline cracks around the focus and screen controls, you can replace it if you wish, as it will need to be done at some point anyway....
 
Well, you haven't told us the number on your old flyback and the number on your new flyback, so I can't tell you if they are compatible or not.

Sorry about that. I can imagine that didn't make any sense, as I had originally posted photos that didn't go through. :D

They are attached below this time.
 

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Okay, the flyback replacement is fine. You probably won't have a place fr the screw on top for the new one.

As for the neckboard, just unplug the red wire at G2, then lift the tension lever on the side of the socket and that wire will pull right out....
 
I believe (I could always be wrong) that the only difference in the K7000 flybacks, is one model is obviously different because it has two lines coming off the anode cup. I think Sharp made that model.
 
I believe (I could always be wrong) that the only difference in the K7000 flybacks, is one model is obviously different because it has two lines coming off the anode cup. I think Sharp made that model.

it was made by Zenith and the flyback config was totally different , not jus the HV capacitor they had on it , the footprint is different as well, pretty much everything else is the same (cap kit , reg, HOT) but once the fly dies , the chassis is junk unless someone happens to re-pro the flyback, but for now the fly dies , strip anything good and junk it
 
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