25" WG K7000 has Raster but no Picture

Nephasth said:
I checked a few components around that area. I have ~12V on both sides of R90. I'm not quite sure which cap you're talking about (C42 is a large black cap and C43 is a small orange cap), so I checked both. C42 is installed properly according to the + on the PCB, I don't know how to check polarity on the smaller orange cap (C43)(Edit: after some googling, I guess most ceramic disc caps don't have polarity). Anyway, I have 12V on what is marked as the positive side of C42 and the ground side has a good ground. The cathode side of D14 is at 12V, and so is the same side of C43. The anode side of D14 is -0.24V with my black lead on ground and red lead on the anode side (and what I think is the negative side of C43), and -0.06V coming out of R92. The back side of C43 looked like it had a cold solder joint (small crack), so I reflowed that joint and retested, same outcome. Does anyone know what the voltage coming out of C43 or going into Pin 5 of the flyback should be? I'm beginning to suspect a bad C43.
Click to expand...

Its scan derived ac voltage from the fly to d14 then rectified to 12v's dc
Your converting alternating current from fly to direct current thur D14..
if you have 12'vs at the cathode then your fly is working..
not to mention ac filament voltage on the neck board.
and the HV and Vertical voltage and screen voltage and Focus voltage..


You need 12v's on ic1 pin 16v's..
for the chip to pass the RGB to the neck board
I believe you have the 12'vs,but make sure it gets to the Ic 1 pin 16
and 12v's to neck board?
Whats voltage on the CBE on Q201,etc on neck board?
Before i or we agree that Ic1 is bad..

Tip: start over with new thread with details about your symptom
so not to get confusing answers.

Hopefully you have a good RGB input signals to the header.
Good Luck!
 
Well I'll just add mine to the bunch!!! I have the horizontal raster lines also as pictured below. My chassis is a WG25K7191. I have neck glow obviously and my boards all work fine. At this point from what I have read here there is no solution to the problem so off to Arcade Cup it goes, I guess? I'm so damn tired of getting chassis fixed. I have another 25" wells setup that I will throw this chassis in tomorrow to see what it does. Can someone look at my other pic below to see if the connectors are in the correct orientation,they were hanging loose when I got the machine. Thanks!!!
 

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Wish i had one of these to play with. If one of you was close, id be happy to help.

this issue is driving me crazy, and these arent even mine!
 
Yeah, someone needs to send one of these to one of us experienced techs so we can figure it out, and then everyone's will be fixed....
 
first one to pm me gets mine

first one to pm me gets mine with the same problem fix it and see what it is it has the extra addon board for the 27 inch fix it and send it back to me and help all with this problem.:)

Peace
Buffett
 
Well I feel stupid, relieved, and excited.

Last night while I was at work, trying to find this same issue over on BYOAC (because KLOVers cuss too much for the WebMarshall), I found one guy with the same thing. Turns out he had his sync hooked up wrong. It got me thinking about how I had this monitor hooked up for testing. I was using the harness from my two screen Run N Gun which has 2 19K7601s in it. I had to unplug both to get the harness to reach this 25K7191 on the floor. I also had to unplug the extra monitor's connection from the game pcb. Well it was cold as shit in my garage and I was in a hurry and just plugged in the connector that reached the easiest. After reading that thread over on BYOAC, I thought I might have hooked up the dead video connection. This morning I swapped the connections and amazingly I now have a perfect picture. That's why I feel stupid, but also relieved. My suggestion to the others with this issue is to double and triple check that you have a good video signal going to the monitor's chassis from the game and to make sure the sync is connected properly (not doubting you, but it never hurts to do so).

Why I'm excited: I picked this monitor up off of CL. Guy said it was broken, "just wouldn't turn on one day." I thought it would be an inexpensive way to do some monitor work (I was hoping to do a cap kit, I still want to do one). He gave it to me for FREE! Can't beat a free working monitor. Score!

I know, I know, I'm a dumbass.
 
Last edited:
Nephasth said:
Well I feel stupid, relieved, and excited.

Last night while I was at work, trying to find this same issue over on BYOAC (because KLOVers cuss too much for the WebMarshall), I found one guy with the same thing. Turns out he had his sync hooked up wrong. It got me thinking about how I had this monitor hooked up for testing. I was using the harness from my two screen Run N Gun which has 2 19K7601s in it. I had to unplug both to get the harness to reach this 25K7191 on the floor. I also had to unplug the extra monitor's connection from the game pcb. Well it was cold as shit in my garage and I was in a hurry and just plugged in the connector that reached the easiest. After reading that thread over on BYOAC, I thought I might have hooked up the dead video connection. This morning I swapped the connections and amazingly I now have a perfect picture. That's why I feel stupid, but also relieved. My suggestion to the others with this issue is to double and triple check that you have a good video signal going to the monitor's chassis from the game and to make sure the sync is connected properly (not doubting you, but it never hurts to do so).

Why I'm excited: I picked this monitor up off of CL. Guy said it was broken, "just wouldn't turn on one day." I thought it would be an inexpensive way to do some monitor work (I was hoping to do a cap kit, I still want to do one). He gave it to me for FREE! Can't beat a free working monitor. Score!

I know, I know, I'm a dumbass.
Click to expand...


Is this the connection you are talking about??
 

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sohchx said:
Is this the connection you are talking about??
Click to expand...

Yep. The game I was using to test has two of those, one for each 19K7601. I had the sync (3 pin plug) connected right, just using the dead connector set. The aux monitor connects to the game pcb through a different connector (the one I had to unplug to get the harness to reach), not the JAMMA connector like the other monitor (the only one actually getting a video and sync signal).
 
sohchx said:
I hope and pray that this is the result of my issue. I have had these plugged in wrong in the past.
Click to expand...

Does that white Sync wire loop over to the pin where it looks like the wire is cut off ?

If it does NOT, then move that connector over one pin to the right. (very first pin)

What game are you running on this monitor ?
Have you checked the solder joints underneath those header pins ?
 

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KevinMullins said:
Does that white Sync wire loop over to the pin where it looks like the wire is cut off ?

If it does NOT, then move that connector over one pin to the right. (very first pin)

What game are you running on this monitor ?
Have you checked the solder joints underneath those header pins ?
Click to expand...

Yes it does loop into the right side. The game is a Simpsons. I have yet to check the solder joints let alone pull the chassis from the frame. That will be done tonight.
 
Well, move that connector to the right one spot anyway. Composite negative sync games (like JAMMA) using a K7000 don't need the vertical pin to be connected, and connecting it can cause problems...
 
Nephasth said:
P5 - Pin 1 12V, Pin 3 130V, Pin 5 3.6VAC (which is lower than what I have read it should be around 5-6VAC, no clue if this is OK or not)
Click to expand...

Connector P5 or P202/J202 depending on where you're looking.
Pin 5 is the heater voltage.... should be a bit higher. (typical is around 6v)
Measure between the two "H" spots on the neckboard itself.

Try this schematic for K7191/7193 reference - http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Wells Gardner 25K7191.pdf The rest is pretty much the same as the manual you have been looking at.

Check C44 on the main chassis and R213 on the neckboard.
This voltage is derived from the flyback, not much else to it.

But basically without good heater voltage/glow you'll get little to nothing image wise on screen.
 
sohchx said:
Moved the connector,no change
Click to expand...

And this game board was tested in another cabinet or with another chassis at least ?
(or another game board on this chassis, etc)
Just want to make sure we're still looking at the chassis being the problem.

Pull that chassis and look over every solder joint, starting with the headers pins where the video cable plugs in.
 
KevinMullins said:
And this game board was tested in another cabinet or with another chassis at least ?
(or another game board on this chassis, etc)
Just want to make sure we're still looking at the chassis being the problem.

Pull that chassis and look over every solder joint, starting with the headers pins where the video cable plugs in.
Click to expand...

Yes the game board works 100%. I am currently pulling the chassis to check the joints and for testing in another game.
 
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