25" Universal Chassis blows fuse after a few minutes

TravistyOJ

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25" Universal Chassis blows fuse after a few minutes

So I got one of those Wei-ya Universal Chassis for my 25" tube. Checked the deflections and it's within range. Hooked everything up, added juice, and so far so good. Picture looked good, but just way too wide. I know there is a jumper wire, you can change to change width modes, and i think that will help, but after about 3-4 minutes of being on, poof, blown fuse. Anyone have an experience like this? Could it be because the pic was so wide on my tube that it caused an issue, or does a blown fuse strictly mean arc? I had to degauss a few times to get rid of the discoloration, so can repeated degausses cause a blown fuse?

Thanks!
 
A little late here, but yeah - complete crap.

I've tried the 19, 25 and 27 versions and none of them are worth
squat.

The 25 actually worked fine for a few hours but the picture went
dead. When I opened the cabinet up something had smoked.

The 19 and 27 both had yokes that met the "specs" however when powered
up the pictures were both narrow, with vertical issues I can't even described
and both of them eventually started smoking near the flyback.

Junk, junk and more junk - stay away !


Check this thread about the Universal chassis's

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=251434

They are well known for being garbage. From what I have read, cut your losses, check your yoke ohms and if it's compatible, grab a K7000
 
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yup they are utter CRAP!!!!!!!!!!

measure your yoke, post the readings so we can see if a K7000 will work.

Peace
Buffett
 
While I have learned since doing my review that they are in fact junk, it should be noted that you MUST use an ISO with them even though they say you don't need one. Otherwise the tall vertical ceramic resistor overheats, cracks and basically burns up.
 
So if your cab already has an isolation transformer ( mine seem to have one) does it mean you need another one just to use this chassis?

Could be that they are complete junk either way, but do the bad experience with those be related to not originally using an isolation transformer from the get-go?
 
So if your cab already has an isolation transformer ( mine seem to have one) does it mean you need another one just to use this chassis?

Could be that they are complete junk either way, but do the bad experience with those be related to not originally using an isolation transformer from the get-go?

You only need one. I've never had any of the bad experiences that others have had but I suspect that since it's advertised as not needing one, people don't use them and yes, it causes some of their issues. Just like the OP. His worked for only a few minutes and died. I suspect he didn't have an ISO hooked up.
 
my wie-ya whaterer worked o.k. had some 50/60 hz out of adjustment type lines at the top of the image i couldnt get out but other then that it did get the job done. i was using it on a k7000 tube and yoke.

the main issues witht hose chassis besides quality control is that theres so many different impedence yokes out there, that there is no way it will do em all.

someone ought to redesign one with a couple different yoke plugs depending on the yokes impedence to give the chassis some flexibility. theres your million dollar idea fellers.
 
Not sure what we are doing different in these parts but I've made 8-10 Wei-Ya/TV tube monitors and they have all worked great.

Two of them have been running 6-10 hours a day, 7 days a week... for over three years. Then a couple more have been running the same amount for 1 to 2 years.

The only thing I do to the chassis is Americanize the power and signal connectors(thanks to Ken Layton's suggestion) and once in a while swap out the horizontal width capacitor.

As far as isolation transformers... the cabinets have already had them so that's how these new monitors are installed. BUT I usually let the monitors run overnight before putting them into service and that is done without an isolation transformer.

Here are a few I was building back in 2012...
Monitors.jpg

(Burning them in with a borked multi-Williams board. :))

Not sure if it matters but we only buy our universal chassis through Alva Amusements out of Florida. We did buy one from another company but it seemed like it was previously used so we no longer buy from them.
 
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