25 inch Die Hard Monitor has no blue

kjeffery

New member
Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
4,502
Reaction score
49
Location
Walcott, Iowa
Well I just got a Die Hard and it works but Monitor has no blue and adjusting pots doesn't add it,you can see where some one tried to fix some traces on the board that connects to the tube, what is that called and can you just buy them instead of the whole chassis, the pic below is a component from the board right underneath the blue pot and it was getting very very hot compared to the other 2 for green and red, anyone have a clue, thanks

SDC10079.jpg


SDC10081.jpg
 
Those monitors are famous for bad solder/traces there on the neckboard. they didn't use big enough heat sinks on those color transistors. You can continue to fix it with jumpers, or you can try to get a new neckboard. I'd check with Chad at arcadecup if you want to go the replacement route...
 
Those monitors are famous for bad solder/traces there on the neckboard. they didn't use big enough heat sinks on those color transistors. You can continue to fix it with jumpers, or you can try to get a new neckboard. I'd check with Chad at arcadecup if you want to go the replacement route...

do you have a picture of one so i can see if the traces are right, also why would that one heat up so much than the rest?
 
Do you have a meter?
Check components around blue drive and compare to red and green parts to see if a bad resistor,transistor is bad.
 
the transistor with the hacked traces and shit is in fact the blue one.

if any one of those legs on the transistor isn't making contact, OR the resistor is bad, you will be missing blue. :)

ways to diagnose whether the transistor/resistor's bad or not, you desolder the suspect one and switch it with a known good one. if the problem carries, you have bad parts... if the problem stays the same, then the parts are good, but the solder joints aren't making contact. if they all work, then that's fantastic.

is this a K7500 or U5000 by chance? I have some extra neckboards, but I think they all have lifting pads on them.

does anyone here know if you can superglue the underside of the pads back on and then be able to resolder again fine?
 
the transistor with the hacked traces and shit is in fact the blue one.

if any one of those legs on the transistor isn't making contact, OR the resistor is bad, you will be missing blue. :)

ways to diagnose whether the transistor/resistor's bad or not, you desolder the suspect one and switch it with a known good one. if the problem carries, you have bad parts... if the problem stays the same, then the parts are good, but the solder joints aren't making contact. if they all work, then that's fantastic.

is this a K7500 or U5000 by chance? I have some extra neckboards, but I think they all have lifting pads on them.

does anyone here know if you can superglue the underside of the pads back on and then be able to resolder again fine?

i just tried to fix the traces and swap out the component pictured above with a known working one and no luck getting my blue back
 
well in replaced the neckboard(thanks to mecha187) and still no blue, what can i check on the chassis?
 
ah yes, reflow all the pins on the video connector header.

if that doesn't do anything then it's probably a tube problem, unless you ruled out that it's the transistor and resistors.

you inserted that one stray tiny black transistor in the new neck didn't you? make sure whatever is missing on the new neck you bring over from the old one.

ironically, I think that missing black transistor was for the blue.
 
Yeah I swapped everything over, its exactly same model neck board too, ill try the header pins tonight
 
i was messing around with it last and i disconnected the remote pots for contrast and h-position..ect..and doing this displayed 3 little lines and it did have a blue red green so does this mean my tube isnt bad? im just going to buy the universal replacement chassis for from 8liners.com
 
I wouldn't operate it without those, lol. basically every adjustment pot on the remote is required to run it. if you're seeing blue though, then that means your tube is ok.

next step I say you try hooking a different game up to it. maybe borrow your Final Fight board. but then again, I imagine Die Hard Arcade isn't a JAMMA game, so you'll either have to butt the ass ends of the 2 cabs together and flip them both on, but hook the Final Fight video signal to the Die Hard monitor, and likewise hook the Die Hard one to the Final Fight one.

probably doesn't mean anything, you said the blue components got hot? everything on these get hot though, like you said, the heatsinks weren't sufficient, and that's commonly why the pads lift on these.

your best bet might be to give Chad at arcadecup.com a call on monday if you're not working.
 
I wouldn't operate it without those, lol. basically every adjustment pot on the remote is required to run it. if you're seeing blue though, then that means your tube is ok.

next step I say you try hooking a different game up to it. maybe borrow your Final Fight board. but then again, I imagine Die Hard Arcade isn't a JAMMA game, so you'll either have to butt the ass ends of the 2 cabs together and flip them both on, but hook the Final Fight video signal to the Die Hard monitor, and likewise hook the Die Hard one to the Final Fight one.

probably doesn't mean anything, you said the blue components got hot? everything on these get hot though, like you said, the heatsinks weren't sufficient, and that's commonly why the pads lift on these.

your best bet might be to give Chad at arcadecup.com a call on monday if you're not working.

Die hard is jamma and I hooked up my Time Killers pcb and still no blue, guess a new chassis will hopefully fix it, i replaced everything on the wells garnder troubleshoot page that said check and even replaced the damn ic u500 chip...still no blue
 
Last edited:
check the blue pin on your JAMMA harness. sometimes those pop out or even the wire could be broken.

the fact you have blue when it's in tweak-out mode...

did you try putting the two cabs together and just swapping the video signal harnesses around? (as in, each monitor is powered by their respective cab, video signal is going from one cab to the other)

if you get no blue on the non-DH one, then it's something in the JAMMA harness.

alternatively you could meter each pin on the video signal connector on the chassis, you should get maybe .3V at each one.
 
check the blue pin on your JAMMA harness. sometimes those pop out or even the wire could be broken.

the fact you have blue when it's in tweak-out mode...

did you try putting the two cabs together and just swapping the video signal harnesses around? (as in, each monitor is powered by their respective cab, video signal is going from one cab to the other)

if you get no blue on the non-DH one, then it's something in the JAMMA harness.

alternatively you could meter each pin on the video signal connector on the chassis, you should get maybe .3V at each one.


I looked over the jamma harness and nothing is broke and the pin is fine and my voltage on all colors even the blue is around .29
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom