mc300baud
Well-known member
20EZ that has had a full standard cap kit done it. it would run fine for quite a while then get the jitters, so i got a filter cap through Dokert recently.
decided tonight that if i'm taking the machine to Bumbershoot to live backstage for the weekend i'd better try to fix the jitters. get the filter cap replaced, put everything back in and get it hooked back up. fire up the cab up and no picture.
quickly shut everything back down and check the monitor over... find that i forgot to reconnect the r/g/b/y yoke wires. hook them back up, double check continuity on the fuses (the big one checked out fine, the small 300MA DC fuse seems to check out ok sometimes and not others.) put the monitor back in and still nothing. turn the brightness up on the flyback and suddenly i've got vertical collapse.
did i fry the yoke? or is it likely there's some other issue now?
i can probably replace the 300MA fuse in the morning, assuming my local shop has 'em (i'll have to buy five, probably at $1.75/each,) and i'll try that of course, but is there something else i should look for? i suppose i can pull the chassis again and check the yoke header pins for cold solder joints... beyond those two things i probably don't have time for any major repairs and i'll have to pick another game to go with me.
decided tonight that if i'm taking the machine to Bumbershoot to live backstage for the weekend i'd better try to fix the jitters. get the filter cap replaced, put everything back in and get it hooked back up. fire up the cab up and no picture.
quickly shut everything back down and check the monitor over... find that i forgot to reconnect the r/g/b/y yoke wires. hook them back up, double check continuity on the fuses (the big one checked out fine, the small 300MA DC fuse seems to check out ok sometimes and not others.) put the monitor back in and still nothing. turn the brightness up on the flyback and suddenly i've got vertical collapse.
did i fry the yoke? or is it likely there's some other issue now?
i can probably replace the 300MA fuse in the morning, assuming my local shop has 'em (i'll have to buy five, probably at $1.75/each,) and i'll try that of course, but is there something else i should look for? i suppose i can pull the chassis again and check the yoke header pins for cold solder joints... beyond those two things i probably don't have time for any major repairs and i'll have to pick another game to go with me.
