20EZ Jumps to 130 B+ After a Minute

texasmame

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I did the centering/adjusting in from the flowchart. Screen looks good and is a steady 108v on the B+

After about a minute, the screen blacks out and the B+ jumps to 130v and stays there.

B+ pot seems solid in that it's adjustable and holds steady once adjusted.

Also tried adjusting the HHold as I'd seen mentioned.

Haven't capped it yet since it's a Sanyo and is horrible to do. Hoping it's something adjustment-wise I'm missing.

Thoughts?
 
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Cap kit, than the ic's namely q901. Possibly the flyback but not likely. Could be cold solder. Sanyo's are easy to cap for me now 1 hour and half.
 
Cap it FIRST!!

you may not like it but bad caps will cause your issuer when they warm up and fail under load.
seen it many times over the years.

if you don't want the hassle, send it in and i will do it for you.

Peace
Buffett
 
Cap it FIRST!!

you may not like it but bad caps will cause your issuer when they warm up and fail under load.
seen it many times over the years.

if you don't want the hassle, send it in and i will do it for you.

Peace
Buffett

Ugh. I know you're right and with anything but an EZ, I'd have already done it.

Ah, well. Will cap and report back!
 
if you need parts i have them top quality nichicon 105c so you only do it once.
 
mine was doing this also , i capped, changed IC601 ( volt reg) Q901, and HOT Q902 . couldn't get it out of HV shutdown. the new HOT i installed was shorted and i found out after testing continuity for broken traces the B+ was shorting to ground. taking the HOT out of circuit eliminated the B+ short to ground. i replaced the HOT , and a new pot for the H-HOLD VR 451 and it is now perfect.
power it down and see if you have continuity from the B+ test point to the chassis.
 
Cap fixed it.

Now, I know the physical state of the caps doesn't always tell the tale, but the ones on the main chassis all looked fine. There were THREE on the audio board that were physically shot - including one that was simply split open at the bottom. Thing is. . . we were getting good audio before the cap!

Is the "audio" board responsible for more than just the audio on the EZ?
 
Cap fixed it.

Now, I know the physical state of the caps doesn't always tell the tale, but the ones on the main chassis all looked fine. There were THREE on the audio board that were physically shot - including one that was simply split open at the bottom. Thing is. . . we were getting good audio before the cap!

Is the "audio" board responsible for more than just the audio on the EZ?

I dont think so as I fixed someone's sanyo with 4 blown out caps on the audio pcb. I think one cap may have been on the fritz in the b+ section but hey who cares you fixed it good job :)
 
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