19V2000, post cap kit, but new issues

There is supposed to be a plastic mica insulator between the frame and the transistor. You also need to put that heat resistant grease between the frame and the mica, and also between the mica and the transistor. I'm not sure about the metal vs. plastic screws to be honest. I'm surprised to hear that your transistors were good even though you initially placed them wrongly.

-csa


Okay, good to know about the insulation. I've been covered in thermal paste the past few days futzing around with these things! They test normally, but I can't shake that there is something still wrong with them somehow. Are the conditions I listed above indicative of transistor trouble?
 
Okay, good to know about the insulation. I've been covered in thermal paste the past few days futzing around with these things! They test normally, but I can't shake that there is something still wrong with them somehow. Are the conditions I listed above indicative of transistor trouble?

From what I gather, if you see a single line in the center of your moinitor (fold over), it means there is a problem in either the X or Y circuit. If fuses are blowing, it means something is shorted. If the spot killer is on, something is still "broke". That's about all I understand at this point.

Have you resoldered all the pins that monitor cables connect TO that deflection board yet? Apparently that's a known thing to do while you have the board pulled.

Here's my thread, and where I'm at with things. I feel like I'm pretty close to the end, but have no clue where to go from here. Maybe some of this advice will help you however.

-csa
 
From what I gather, if you see a single line in the center of your moinitor (fold over), it means there is a problem in either the X or Y circuit. If fuses are blowing, it means something is shorted. If the spot killer is on, something is still "broke". That's about all I understand at this point.

Have you resoldered all the pins that monitor cables connect TO that deflection board yet? Apparently that's a known thing to do while you have the board pulled.

Here's my thread, and where I'm at with things. I feel like I'm pretty close to the end, but have no clue where to go from here. Maybe some of this advice will help you however.

-csa

No blown fuses, and something is still broke.... This is starting to feel like group therapy for vector monitor repair! I'll futz around a bit more, but then I'll be sending this off to a professional. Dunno why more experts aren't commenting. It seems the fix is to be sold and not told.
 
No blown fuses, and something is still broke.... This is starting to feel like group therapy for vector monitor repair! I'll futz around a bit more, but then I'll be sending this off to a professional. Dunno why more experts aren't commenting. It seems the fix is to be sold and not told.

Well, if you find someone you trust to send it to let me know. I'm almost there as well. As for sold not told.. i just get the feeling there's a lot of variables, and non-obvious fixes are hard to diagnose remotely. *shrug*

-csa
 
Well, if you find someone you trust to send it to let me know. I'm almost there as well. As for sold not told.. i just get the feeling there's a lot of variables, and non-obvious fixes are hard to diagnose remotely. *shrug*

-csa

I've been quoted an excellent repair price by Sharp Images in Las Vegas. The real cost will be shipping!
 
I've been quoted an excellent repair price by Sharp Images in Las Vegas. The real cost will be shipping!

Hmm.. I was thinking more along the lines of sending out just the deflection board to someone who has the other parts..

-csa
 
Chassis

If you need to send this out. Chad at arcadecup.com is the only way to go. If you have a line running horizontally, you have vertical collapse. Check or recheck the components in the vertical deflection circuit. Dont give up now, you are very close.
 
Hmm.. I was thinking more along the lines of sending out just the deflection board to someone who has the other parts..

-csa

That'd be fine and good, if there weren't so many variables apparently involved with this monitor. I paid so little for the whole cab (it came complete with all the service manuals and history too!) that having a guaranteed fix would be worth it. I thought maybe it'd be worth the time, but man it is a beast of variables! Gonna do a bit more scrounging for info tho... Then to fix and sell this awesome machine!
 
If you need to send this out. Chad at arcadecup.com is the only way to go.

Jeeze! 140$ .. I think I dumped that much into my monitor thus far trying to get it to work myself :) So close.. i'm still gonna work on this myself for a bit more!

-csa
 
okay, I reflowed every solder point in the Y deflection area, and replaced almost all of the diodes. I checked and rechecked the chassis transistors, but I still cannot get Y deflection. I have chatter and the X axis line visible, but no Y and the spot killer on. What else could die from overuse/heat? Could the HV cage need some attention now?

I also checked the connection of the Y signal from the game PCB to the deflection PCB, its good!
 
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XY

okay, I reflowed every solder point in the Y deflection area, and replaced almost all of the diodes. I checked and rechecked the chassis transistors, but I still cannot get Y deflection. I have chatter and the X axis line visible, but no Y and the spot killer on. What else could die from overuse/heat? Could the HV cage need some attention now?

I also checked the connection of the Y signal from the game PCB to the deflection PCB, its good!

Your hv section is working if you have a line on the screen. If you are not sure, check for the 90v return on pin 5 at the HV pcb.
 
It's now to the point of replacing ALL of the resistors on the board. The chassis transistors all tested good at +- 38 VDC each. If I have them, the disk caps are getting the heave ho too. If you hear a very loud curse outside in the next day or so, it was me and my rebuilt board and no Y deflection.
 
It's now to the point of replacing ALL of the resistors on the board. The chassis transistors all tested good at +- 38 VDC each. If I have them, the disk caps are getting the heave ho too. If you hear a very loud curse outside in the next day or so, it was me and my rebuilt board and no Y deflection.

You should only have to replace a resistor if 1) it is shorted 0.000 readings or 2) it reads above/below the 5% (or whatever) tolerance rating for that resistor.

I've started to chart all my resistor readings, and have come up with 4 so far which are outside the tolerance. My Trim pots are also outside the tolerance, so I'm replacing them as well.

Do note that if you suspect the resistor is bad or whatnot, you should pull it complete from the circuit and test it one more time. That way you're 100% sure it's the reading of ONLY the resistor and not the rest of the circuit.

I'm doing this now, so I say you should join in and do it too :)

-csa
 
Well, I may have saved myself some $$ by not sending the monitor out for repairs.... I just checked the PCB again for Y signal, and there is none! The connectors for Y and Y-Ground are good from the PCB to the monitor. I checked the point on the actual game PCB and got no reading from my voltmeter. Fun. With no working machine to test this monitor on, I'll move to a different forum to search for answer to the board problem! gah!
 
You should only have to replace a resistor if 1) it is shorted 0.000 readings or 2) it reads above/below the 5% (or whatever) tolerance rating for that resistor.

I've started to chart all my resistor readings, and have come up with 4 so far which are outside the tolerance. My Trim pots are also outside the tolerance, so I'm replacing them as well.

Do note that if you suspect the resistor is bad or whatnot, you should pull it complete from the circuit and test it one more time. That way you're 100% sure it's the reading of ONLY the resistor and not the rest of the circuit.

I'm doing this now, so I say you should join in and do it too :)

-csa


Good luck to you! So many variables, it makes your head spin! =)
 
Well heck, I fixed the game PCB that wasn't supplying a Y signal, and the spot killer is still on.

- Does the spot killer circutry have any likely suspects, or could the traces on the board be bad at this point?

- Does spot killer come on if the tube is bad?

- Is there a member of this board anywhere near the central coast of California with a working Asteroids I could swap this monitor out to test? =)

- Anyone have a known working deflection board for sale? =D
 
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Tube.

The spot killer wont be on when the tube is bad. It is upstream from the tube. BW vector tubes very rarely go bad. I have had only 1 out of probably 30 that has passed through my hands. They do get cracked though. If your heater is orange, not blue, there is no crack in the neck most likely.
 
The spot killer wont be on when the tube is bad. It is upstream from the tube. BW vector tubes very rarely go bad. I have had only 1 out of probably 30 that has passed through my hands. They do get cracked though. If your heater is orange, not blue, there is no crack in the neck most likely.

Thanks! That only leaves:

- Does the spot killer circutry have any likely suspects, or could the traces on the board be bad at this point?

- Is there a member of this board anywhere near the central coast of California with a working Asteroids I could swap this monitor out to test? =)

- Anyone have a known working deflection board for sale? =D
 
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