19V2000, post cap kit, but new issues

FedExin

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Hello! I've been attempting to restore an Asteroids machine as of late, and came across an issue I couldn't immediately diagnose. It has a WG 19V2000 monitor that I have replaced the caps, most of the connectors (the X and Y's, as well as the 10pin one), two pots (not the contrast and brightness, they were a different shape than the ones in the kit I received from Bob Roberts) and all fuses on the deflection board, but not the HV board yet. I also replaced the transistors on the chassis.

Before the cap kit, the game played well, but there was some slightly garbled graphics in the middle of the screen, with the top and bottom of the picture sharp. The X and Y connectors were loose as well, and had to be fiddled with to maintain picture. I let it run on a hot day for a while, and it failed all together, with the tube filament glowing, and the LED on the deflection board staying on. I figured a cap kit and some new pots and connectors would do the trick! I checked and rechecked all the old solder points as well.

I've installed all of the parts, put it back together for a test, and the monitor shows a bright, short, vertical line in the center of the screen, with no LED lit on the defl board. This would be fine to diagnose, except I smelled and saw smoke coming from the back! I checked and it was R100 smoking. I've read that R100 and R101 can be removed and simply jumpered permanently. Is this true? And is the vertical line occurring because I haven't re-capped the HV board?
 
okay! i checked the chassis transistors for continuity issues with the chassis itself (with the connectors unplugged as t not detect a cap). sure enough one was touching the chassis via a screw. i replaced the old screws with plastic ones, and turned it back on. no smoke! there is now a general glow, especially when i blind play the game and shoot. the spot killer led is also on now.

the R100 resistor isn't smoking, but it is extremely hot!!! i insta-burned an index finger after feeling for general heat on the component. i checked it later with my infared thermometer; 400+ degrees.


so: spot killer on, general glow, red hot R100. any thoughts as i nurse this finger? :)
 
Fedex

Some people here, including me do not like fed ex. That might be why no one has helped.

R100 and R101 are the 2 power legs coming in to the monitor. One is not getting to the deflection board that is why the other is heating up. It will run like this but not forever. It really beats up the the other resistor. It could be a fuse holder, wire, connector or cold solder. Your deflection problem is mostlikely cold solder joints on the deflection PCB. I read that you visualy checked them but that is not good enough. Go ahead and reflow the solder on the headder pins even though they look good. A lot of times that is the issue.
 
Thanks for stepping up. Please note, I DO NOT work or ever have worked for fed ex!

I reflowed darn near the whole board, and continuity checked every wire I could. I'm now getting a solid dot in the middle of the screen, and the spot killer led is on.

Thanks again!
 
You're ok to jumper R100 and R101 - they do run hot as hell and he was right where one tries to make up for the other. I would also re-test that one transistor to make sure its not shorted altogether now. They're cheap enough to replace or you could just put one of your old ones back in to test.

Make sure all your fuses are good - if one resistor is/was dead chances are a fuse may have blown. You may also want to double-check the fuses in the power brick at the bottom of the game.

(Vectors are wierd in that they are powered by about 60volts AND 6 volts (for heater) directly from the game's power brick.)

Last but not least - check the molex plug feeding the monitor to make sure no pins have backed out. I've had that happen once or twice.
 
You're ok to jumper R100 and R101 - they do run hot as hell and he was right where one tries to make up for the other. I would also re-test that one transistor to make sure its not shorted altogether now. They're cheap enough to replace or you could just put one of your old ones back in to test.

Make sure all your fuses are good - if one resistor is/was dead chances are a fuse may have blown. You may also want to double-check the fuses in the power brick at the bottom of the game.

(Vectors are wierd in that they are powered by about 60volts AND 6 volts (for heater) directly from the game's power brick.)

Last but not least - check the molex plug feeding the monitor to make sure no pins have backed out. I've had that happen once or twice.

Yep, the fuses are all good. There was only one fuse I could find in the main power brick at the bottom of the cabinet. I replaced all the connectors with new crimp and stuff molex ones, and replaced the posts on the board as well. They all seem to check out. I swapped all the chassis transistors with the old ones, and get the same thing at the moment. I'll be testing them again.

**I do remember when I was initially futzing around with the deflection board when I first got the machine that I saw an arc from somewhere in the middle of the board to the chassis. This was from me poking the wires while the machine was on. Before I was getting some video, after the arc, spot killer only...
 
Okay, a couple questions:

- I have an extra diode from the cap kit I bought from Bob Roberts; DT230b. Should I use it to substitute for the diode at D506? I've read shorthand that suggests this, but no explicit instruction.

- For D100, can I use a 3A 50PIV Rectifier Diode in place of the (SI) 3A the manual calls for?

Thanks.
 
Some progress!

Replaced the diodes at D608, D708, and D100. Jumpered R100 and R101. Haven't swapped out D506 yet. Results:

- Spot killer on
- Short horizontal line with movement kind of visible

Thoughts?

Should I swap out D506?
 
Some progress!

Replaced the diodes at D608, D708, and D100. Jumpered R100 and R101. Haven't swapped out D506 yet. Results:

- Spot killer on
- Short horizontal line with movement kind of visible

Thoughts?

Should I swap out D506?

have you tested the bottlecap transistors on the monitor? If one of them are bad you could have collapse.

-csa
 
have you tested the bottlecap transistors on the monitor? If one of them are bad you could have collapse.

-csa

Gah, I mis-placed them on the chassis, two 2n3716's on one side, and the 2n3792's on the other! Placing them properly now, and testing as well.

Digital multimeter set to diode, and positive lead on the base, neg on the case... right?
 
Gah, I mis-placed them on the chassis, two 2n3716's on one side, and the 2n3792's on the other! Placing them properly now, and testing as well.

Digital multimeter set to diode, and positive lead on the base, neg on the case... right?

I think each kind of transistor tests a bit differently. The important thing (in diode mode) is that readings only happen in one direction, and are not 0.000

Having them swapped probably caused some other components in your board to fail.. hopefully those things you've all ready caught. Me however, I'm still working through my G05 in another thread. :)

-csa
 
Should the bottlecap transisitors Collector be touching the case? Should I have continuity between the chassis and the Collector?

I was using plastic screws, but replaced them with the original metal ones after checking them with my meter (all good).

I installed the DT230b substitution for D506, and reinstalled the chassis transistors. Now:

- Spot killer on
- Chatter!
- wide horizontal line with a bright dot in the middle, action sorta visible.
 
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Should the bottlecap transisitors Collector be touching the case? Should I have continuity between the chassis and the Collector?

I was using plastic screws, but replaced them with the original metal ones after checking them with my meter (all good).

I installed the DT230b substitution for D506, and reinstalled the chassis transistors. Now:

- Spot killer on
- Chatter!
- wide horizontal line with a bright dot in the middle, action sorta visible.

There is supposed to be a plastic mica insulator between the frame and the transistor. You also need to put that heat resistant grease between the frame and the mica, and also between the mica and the transistor. I'm not sure about the metal vs. plastic screws to be honest. I'm surprised to hear that your transistors were good even though you initially placed them wrongly.

-csa
 
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