19V2000 HV Diode

Branden

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Any suggestions? The holder on the flyback side is brittle and busted. Also, is an H1802 (28 KV) a suitable replacement? I have a spare for a G05-802. IMG_2320.JPG
 
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And yes, an 1802 will also work. You can epoxy the holder back together, and reuse the boots. They can be cleaned up with Goof Off. You should solder the new diode to the wires though, and eliminate the springs. This is how I rebuild all of the ones I repair.
 
I take it H1802 is fine for a 10V200 then? That's the same diode I have as a spare.

My main concern is how do I go about "fixing" the holder?
 
And yes, an 1802 will also work. You can epoxy the holder back together, and reuse the boots. They can be cleaned up with Goof Off. You should solder the new diode to the wires though, and eliminate the springs. This is how I rebuild all of the ones I repair.

The entire boot has disintegrated on the flyback side. It is super brittle. Should I solder the diode on then encase in epoxy? If so, what kind should I use?
 
I'm actually working with another KLOVer here to 3D print new boots, as they are necessary, and there are no easily available replacements. We've done some prototypes, but aren't ready to make the available yet.

In the meantime you can use black RTV silicone to insulate the solder joints. Be sure to file or sandpaper the wires on both sides of the joint so the solder will flow and stick well. (I clean both with my Dremel with a wire wheel brush, so there's bare metal on both sides). Clip the legs of the diode so they're only about 1/4", and keep the exposed part of the flyback wire short as well. Also, make sure the solder joint is nice and smooth with no sharp points sticking out of it.
 
What would you recommend for install on an intact HV setup (boots are good)? I would rather not solder and cut anything up if I don't need to. Should I cut the diode lead off and bend it over like the original or coil it up on the end to match the springs under the boot?

Either way I would like to test the new diode first to see if it is the issue.
 
IF your boots are fine, clean out the gunk that is in there with some sort of solvent cleaner, preferably a spray cleaner. I use a qtip to get the gunky grease etc out of there. The springs should look clean and not rusted. I then use the dielectric grease that they sell for spark plugs at the auto store and squirt just a tiny bit in there. This insulates against moisture etc. lightly sand the oxidation off the wire of the stick diode or use a fiberglass brush. Coil up the end and press it correctly into the holders. You will note that it isn't very snug. I then take a roll of electrical tape and tape the stick diode to the boot and wrap it several times in an overlapping pattern to hold it into place. Do this to both sides of the diode/boot configuration. Then snap the stick diode into place in the plastic standoffs. I've had pretty good luck with this method. Otherwise I do exactly as Andrewb recommends. I use tape to hold the stick diode and then insulate it with high temp silicone over the tape. That way it is easier to clean up and resolder if necessary. Trying to get silicone off a solder joint is pretty tough. I also will sometimes use heat shrink cut into two separate overlapping pieces. Each install if different.

We really need those boots Andrewb!
 
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We really need those boots Andrewb!


Still working on it! The main thing at the moment is the person I'm working with was upgrading his 3D printer. But I should see where he's at with that, as I need some boots myself.

We were 90% of the way there, and the protos I had worked well. We were going to tweak the sizes a little, as they change depending on the material and how much it deforms, but the softer material was stretchy enough that it provided a little leeway.

We just need to get it across the goal line, but it hasn't been forgotten.
 
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