19v2000 Basics?

Ghostnuke

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2010
Messages
4,168
Reaction score
399
Location
Lawrence, Kansas
I just picked up an Asteroids Deluxe that is playing blind. This will be my first time working on a vector, so any help would be appreciated.

When I fire it up, the front of the tube glows as if it was going to work, but there is no neck glow.

I'm assuming Bob has a kit for it, I'll probably pick that up. Is there a good resource for basic repairs on this model?
 
I would order the kit with transistors and order the 2 large filter caps.
Check the voltages at the motherboard.
Look for the spot killer on the deflection board and see if it is on.
 
I would order the kit with transistors and order the 2 large filter caps.
Check the voltages at the motherboard.
Look for the spot killer on the deflection board and see if it is on.

Will do. Where specifically should I check voltages? This is my first time looking at one of these, so treat me like an idiot. ;)
 
Will do. Where specifically should I check voltages? This is my first time looking at one of these, so treat me like an idiot. ;)

There are 2 types of monitor for AD

Which one do you have?

Either way, the voltages are checked at the 15 pin plug on the Transformer block in the bottom of the cab, and also the AR board

Come back with questions if this makes no sense
 
You should also check the 4 transistors on the heat sinks on the deflection board and meter the ceramic resistors. Is the red led lit up on the deflection board ?
 
I had the same problem when I picked mine up last year. After a week of troubleshooting someone told me to just rebuilt it and do the resistor removal mod before going any further. Fired up and worked great since the rebuild.
 
Theres's lots and lots and lots of information on these monitors on the 'net. Read the B&W Vector FAQ, it covers pretty much everything you would want to know.

-Ian
 
I'm on the case! I've got the B&W vector monitor faq to read, ordered a kit from Bob, and I will check for the light on the deflection board today. Expect more questions soon! ;)
 
I had the same problem when I picked mine up last year. After a week of troubleshooting someone told me to just rebuilt it and do the resistor removal mod before going any further. Fired up and worked great since the rebuild.

Have any links explaining this resistor removal mod?
 
Ended up getting an interview and a job in the last two days, so I have yet to check the deflection board. I will get to it this weekend. :D
 
Alright, so I'm getting ready to pull this monitor out and I'm reading that discharging it in the usual method is bad?

I normally use Bob's safeback discharger, but the vector faq says that will damage the chassis. Is that right? I don't currently have an HV probe.
 
Did a search and found this quote from Bob:

Basic electricity 101 as taught since the days of Edison until now:

"Electricity ALWAYS seeks the easiest path to ground! It does not "care" how
it gets there. If you or your equipment create that path, you will be
placing yourself (and possibly others) in a life threatening situation."

So... if you don't hold onto the ground wire with one hand & touch the metal
frame with the other it will not go through you to get to it's objective nor
will it go through a diode, or any other component, unless you put it in the
path to ground. In the case of discharging a monitor with a Safeback, it's
absurd to think that the electricity with a nice solid path to ground is
going to somehow allow part of it's charge to go in reverse looking for a
much harder path to ground.... yet... the inet stories still grow such as
the one about ketchup containing the HIV virus!

For a common sense view... while the monitor is on there is a constant
17,000 to 22,000 volts applied directly to that HV diode.... not just the
small residual charge left in the CRT.

Guess I'll just use my safeback discharger.
 
You don't want to discharge it to the frame on these. There are frame mounted components.

Any besides the bottle cap transistors? Would it make a difference if I'm replacing them all anyway?

Edit: I guess I could discharge it into something else, my desk has metal legs...
 
You don't want to discharge it to the frame on these. There are frame mounted components.

That's not the reason at all. Most monitors have frame mounted components - or components mounted to something electrically attached to the frame.

The reason is that the HV diode in the anode connection is rather sensitive. You still discharge to the frame, but you want to do so through a bleeder resistor, so as not to zap the diode.

But, truth be told, they usually seem to discharge themselves pretty quickly.

-Ian
 
I read that somewhere when I got mine. Since when was info on the internet not always true? Didn't know about the diode thing. They do seem to discharge themselves pretty quickly also.
 
Well if it discharges itself, maybe I won't have to worry about it. I've got the monitor out of the cabinet already. I'm thinking at this point I'll just remove the anode cap with a plastic screwdriver and see what happens.
 
Back
Top Bottom