19v2000 Asteroids deluxe playing blind, what's the best course of action...

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19v2000 Asteroids deluxe playing blind, what's the best course of action...

I just got an asteroids deluxe and you can't even see the chassis with a big metal plate in your way attached to the frame of this thing.

Is it best to remove the monitor in one piece to mess with these things?

Can I just unscrew the metal plate in the way and see where I can get while the monitor is still installed?

love some advide from AD owners/people who have worked on them.
 
Are you looking through the coin door? You can get the deflection board out that way, but it might be easier to go through the back. I repaired both the HV and deflection boards without removing the monitor. But the monitor does slide out nicely on its wooden mounting panel if you need to get a better look.
 
Upright or cocktail version?

I'd pull the monitor from the back if it's an upright. The monitor is resting horizontally on some wood slides. Just remove a few bolts and the whole monitor will slide out the back.

I just finished working on my AD upright, so I should be able to help you...
 
yes it's an upright. I guess it's the cardboard backdrop that is hanging down in the way. Inhibiting me from getting to the monitor.

I just want to check the fuses honestly. I have read up on some of the threads around and it seems everytime a guy does a bob roberts kit and I figure change the frame transistors I should be back in business. I was hoping it was just a fuse first though. :)

thanks, for the offer, I am sure I will be asking for some help soon.
 
Once you unplug the connectors, you can pull the whole thing out at once from the back. There are 2 bolts to remove and it'll slide out underneath the cardboard backdrop. I did a Bob kit on mine + the 2 filter caps and it's up and going.
 
Once you unplug the connectors, you can pull the whole thing out at once from the back. There are 2 bolts to remove and it'll slide out underneath the cardboard backdrop. I did a Bob kit on mine + the 2 filter caps and it's up and going.

ordered this cap kit with transistors and 2 filter caps. I will report back in a few days.
Well maybe sooner once I get a chance to pull that monitor and test fuses, etc.
 
ok I pulled the monitor (it was really easy)

I had one blown fuse, replaced it.

turned her on, still nothing. no static on screen, no neck glow.
replaced fuse did NOT blow again.

the red led light pulsates from light to bright back and forth back and forth. then it turns off for 30 seconds. then back to the light to bright, light to bright.

power doesn't appear to be making it to the tube though huh? everything appears to be connected nicely, I will check that. I have not pulled the chassis yet to check for cold solder joints.

what next? wait for the cap kit and filter caps, or keep going right now?
 
Reflow solder (desolder then resolder) on ALL header pins on deflection board and HV board

Also check for loose pins in the monitor connector (check both sides)
 
Reflow solder (desolder then resolder) on ALL header pins on deflection board and HV board

Also check for loose pins in the monitor connector (check both sides)

is there any charge that is held in the high voltage section? that cage makes me 'respect' it's authority. lol

I discharged the monitor a couple of times and didn't even get a pop out of it.
 
I've been told that these vector monitors lose their charge within seconds of being powered down.

You should be able to disconnect the high voltage connector from the deflection PCB without too much worry. Once everything is disconnected from the deflection PCB, you can pull it without worrying.

The behavior you're describing suggests cold solder joints. Resolder all connectors and you may see some good results. But be prepared for more troubleshooting - I resoldered my board and got heater glow back, but still needed to track down one of the sand resistors that had gone bad before I got the spot killer to play nice.

FYI - unless you want to risk blowing the inline rectifier diode on your flyback line (located inside the high voltage cage) I'd suggest NOT discharging the monitor in the way that most guys do it for raster monitors. Grounding the anode to the frame will likely blow that diode, and you'll be on your way to arcadeshop.com to buy another one. At $20 a pop, you don't want to fry too many of these diodes.

You need to discharge that monitor with a high voltage probe.

But as mentioned above, there's likely no charge stored in it after a few minutes anyway.
 
is there any charge that is held in the high voltage section? that cage makes me 'respect' it's authority.

No, the HV section is fine to touch if the monitor is off. But the tube will need to be discharged to remove it. I believe the cage is just an RF shield, not a "be careful" shield.

FYI - unless you want to risk blowing the inline rectifier diode on your flyback line (located inside the high voltage cage) I'd suggest NOT discharging the monitor in the way that most guys do it for raster monitors. Grounding the anode to the frame will likely blow that diode, and you'll be on your way to arcadeshop.com to buy another one. At $20 a pop, you don't want to fry too many of these diodes.

You need to discharge that monitor with a high voltage probe.

I have seen this happen (HV diode failing after direct discharge), or at least it was an amazing coincidence.
 
If the spot killer light is the light you are talking about then it almost sounds more like a board problem. If you haven't checked your +5 then I am going to have to chastise you. I would also reseat all the chips on the motherboard. Does it play blind ? Try putting it in test too.
 
Had a similar thing happen on my space duel. I took all chips or roms out. Cleaned with eraser head and boom it worked
 
If the spot killer light is the light you are talking about then it almost sounds more like a board problem. If you haven't checked your +5 then I am going to have to chastise you. I would also reseat all the chips on the motherboard. Does it play blind ? Try putting it in test too.

well I haven't checked the +5, all I have really done is confirm that it plays blind, and I did put it in test mode, and it made a series of 'tones' then I flipped it back into game mode.

Bottom line right now is the neck has no glow, and the tube isn't getting power (it appears)
all fuses are good and holding steady after the 1 blown was replaced.

I will be pulling it and do some solder work tonite, I will test the voltages and reseat the chips to keep my self busy. I should have the bob kit by friday (day off) so I can get it all installed.
 
I had similar symptoms with mine... no neck glow, played blind. After testing votages, replaced the tube, resoldered pins, etc....a cap kit finally did the trick for me.
 
ok I pulled her apart and removed and replaced the solder to all the connector pins.

touched up a couple of other sketchy looking areas to play it safe.

flipped her on, and I've got neck glow. only my screen is scrunched to shit. So I find the x/y (?) adjustment pots on the pcb) adjusted those out in test mode and she's rolling very nicely now. (aside from being backwards/inverted lol) I assume once it goes back in and gets reflected it will be proper.

In test mode I couldn't get the grid to perfectly fill the screen, maybe a cap kit helps with that. there was a touch of curl in one of the corners. I want to hook it up and play it but I may as well wait for bob's kit and update it.

more to follow............ hopefully all good stuff
 
only my screen is scrunched to shit. So I find the x/y (?) adjustment pots on the pcb)

In test mode I couldn't get the grid to perfectly fill the screen, maybe a cap kit helps with that. there was a touch of curl in one of the corners. I want to hook it up and play it but I may as well wait for bob's kit and update it.

more to follow............ hopefully all good stuff

Note that you likely have:
-X/Y size adjustments on the GAME PCB
-X/Y "BIP" adjustments on the GAME PCB
-X/Y linearity adjustments on the MONITOR PCB (one or two pairs, depending on monitor model)

The game & monitor manuals & schematics have some nice details about how to go about adjusting each of them.
 
Note that you likely have:
-X/Y size adjustments on the GAME PCB
-X/Y "BIP" adjustments on the GAME PCB
-X/Y linearity adjustments on the MONITOR PCB (one or two pairs, depending on monitor model)

The game & monitor manuals & schematics have some nice details about how to go about adjusting each of them.

I found the size adjustment pots I believe and used those. I didn't see anything else, so I need to go look up a copy of the manual and explore what you are talking about.
Thanks!
 
My mistake; Ast Deluxe is DVG, and doesn't have BIP adjustments. Sorry.

You do have seperate X/Y adjustment on the game PCB and the monitor deflection PCB, though (1 set on the 19V2000).
 
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