19K4906 is it shot?

Just noticed this too?!? Is this right; D306 has a cap in parallel with it.

YES it's correct. not all versions have it but if it's there replace it.

BTW: my cap kits explain this and tells you which way to install it.
 
Well I pulled 4 of the 6 pots and when out of the circuit off the board they all read within tolerance.

I did notice that VR353 is a 10k pot and the manual says it's suppose to be a 2K? Not sure if that would do anything.

Maybe the B+ Coil?

Also, VR302 which says V.Damp has had no effect on the picture and the pot is good.

Thanks!!!
 
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leave the pot values the same as what is on the chassis.

wells never updated the manuals for the different revisions of the PCB regarding the pots.

some use different values because of the mods done to the chassis.

what you have on there is correct for that chassis revision.

Peace
Buffett
 
Thank you very much Buffett! Do you have any advice on what I should check next?

Ideas from all are more than welcome. I would love to get at least one of these games I picked up working.

Thanks!!!
 
no prob.

that issue from what i have come across is either caps, transistors or a busted trace/pad.

you have gone threw a bunch of what i would have checked already.

yes that cap on the diode needs to be there, if you have not changed it yet it need to be changed.

leave the diode and replace the cap.

take another good hard look at your work for any solder bridges, even the tiniest of bridges can make a chassis behave with odd issues.

start in your vertical circuit and work your way along testing components, it may be a simple resister that is just out of spec.

use the schematic and a resister calculator to add up the values that you see on the resister if the manual is different.

many times wells would put in different values and not update the manual.
this is common across the board with their monitors.

if you cannot narrow it down and need another set of eyes on it, your welcome to send it in.

those issues can be a pain.

i just had a K7000 that had a wacky issue that i never saw before, i had seen similar things in the past but not this issue it had elements like yours.

everything checked good, but it was a small crack in the trace on one of the caps, the owner did the cap kit and when i found that hidden bugger, the chassis ran like a champ.

Peace
Buffett
 
no prob.

that issue from what i have come across is either caps, transistors or a busted trace/pad.

you have gone threw a bunch of what i would have checked already.

yes that cap on the diode needs to be there, if you have not changed it yet it need to be changed.

leave the diode and replace the cap.

take another good hard look at your work for any solder bridges, even the tiniest of bridges can make a chassis behave with odd issues.

start in your vertical circuit and work your way along testing components, it may be a simple resister that is just out of spec.

use the schematic and a resister calculator to add up the values that you see on the resister if the manual is different.

many times wells would put in different values and not update the manual.
this is common across the board with their monitors.

if you cannot narrow it down and need another set of eyes on it, your welcome to send it in.

those issues can be a pain.

i just had a K7000 that had a wacky issue that i never saw before, i had seen similar things in the past but not this issue it had elements like yours.

everything checked good, but it was a small crack in the trace on one of the caps, the owner did the cap kit and when i found that hidden bugger, the chassis ran like a champ.

Peace
Buffett

Really appreciate the Great Info Buffet!!! Will let you know how it goes!!! Really Nice of you and everyone to take the time to answer these questions!!!
 
YES it's correct. not all versions have it but if it's there replace it.

BTW: my cap kits explain this and tells you which way to install it.

Hey Peter, I see what you are talking about now. I opened the other cap kit you sent me and everything is right there in black and white along with the cap. I honestly forgot I had that kit as I have so many games I'm working on.

Focusing on Ms-Pacman until it's fixed!

Thanks Peter and will do Buffett!!!
 
Well I just set myself back!!!!!!! I put the pots back and changed the cap that is in parallel with the diode. Plugged it back up and although the right side still looked bad, I could read the words better and the buttering seemed to have calmed down.

THEN LIKE A DUMB ASS I WENT TO CLOSE THE COCKTAIL TABLE AND THE CHASSIS FEEL BECAUSE I DIDNT HAVE IT SCREWED IN AND IT SHORTED SOMEWHERE AND BLEW THE FUSE!!!!

I replaced the fuse and all I have now is a dot in the center of the screen.

I'm thinking C501 might be bad. I pulled it and its reading 150uf the manual says it's suppose to be .1uf

The strange thing to me is I'm reading about 20v where the ax comes in to the board. When I measure the cable connecting from the power supply it's 127v?

Do you guys think the cap is causing the dot on the screen?

Thanks!

Also, just so anyone reading this knows, a monitor can BITE YOU even after you discharged it twice and let it sit for 2 days. I went to hook the tube back up without discharging again as I thought after discharging it twice two days earlier I should be fine, Wrong lol!!!!! And it was a good jolt!!! I can't even imagine how bad it would be if you just unplugged the game and didn't discharge the tube!
 
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check your yoke connector on the bottom of the chassis.

you could have broken the solder joints on the pins.

then check your yoke wires from the connector to the yoke.
make sure they are not open.

then check your yoke to see if you broke any wires off the posts.

after all that ohm the yoke to see what both pairs read.

you need to do all theses checks to make sure the wires are not making and breaking contact anywhere along the line.

Peace
Buffett
 
When you say Yoke connector are you talking about the neck Board Buffett? I know where the yoke is. The pins on the yoke seem intake. The blue, Green, Red, Yellow wires all have continuity from the plug back to the monitor neck. They all look like they are still connected to the copper wires on the monitor neck. Not sure where to measure resistance.
 
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When you say Yoke connector are you talking about the neck Board Buffett? I know where the yoke is. The pins on the yoke seem intake. The blue, Green, Red, Yellow wires all have continuity from the plug back to the monitor neck. They all look like they are still connected to the copper wires on the monitor neck. Not sure where to measure resistance.

the yoke is the big piece with copper winding's that is against the bell of the tube.

none of those wires go to the neck board in any way.

the connector plugs onto the chassis next to the width coil.

put your meter on ohms and read the blue/red pair and then the other pair.

this will tell us how your yoke checks out and if it has a broken winding.

Peace
Buffett
 
Ok I tested the the blue and red wires at the connector and got 2.8 ohms tested the green and yellow and got 20 ohms.
 

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the Horizontal half of your yoke is ok.

the Vertical is not, i should be around 40 ohms, so i suspect you have a broken winding somewhere on the yoke, look over where the wires solder to the posts and see if you find a broken winding from when your chassis fell off and yanked it loose.

Peace
Buffett
 
All wires are connected on the yoke.

Just as a reminder, I am only getting around 20vac where it comes into the chassis board. When I read the connector coming from the transformer it's reading 128vac but when I read it at the board it's only 20vac.
 
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if that is the case then your measuring the voltage incorrectly.

if you have 120vac ish on the output of the ISO then something is real wrong when you measure it at the monitor.

the chassis will not even come on with 20vac.

weather all the wires are connected at the yoke, you have a winding that is BROKE somewhere on the yoke.
it may not be obvious and you will have to dig around.

the 4900 is a HIGH impedance chassis and 20 ohms is considered LOW impedance.

i am betting your yoke is bad internally or it is a broken wire on it somewhere you cannot see.

Peace
Buffett
 
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