19K4606 in my $110.00 Pacman,dead

It's dead again. :eek:
The K 4600 monitor from Hell came back to torment me some more. I thought I had it fixed. It was working great but I did notice every now and then the picture would roll like it lost horizontal hold for a second and then lock back in place. When I first put the monitor back in the cabinet I let it run for 8 hours with no problems. Yesterday I turned it on,played a few games and left it on for about another 8 hours but when I went back to turn it off it was dead. It had blown the 2 amp slow blow fuse in the bottom of the Pacman cabinet. I did a quick check and it appears the new HOT I put in is now bad. I pulled the monitor back out and put it on the bench and pulled all 3 plug in boards and put them in my Frogger 4600 I just finished and all 3 boards work fine. So what would cause a new Hot to short out? I cant believe another flyback went bad but I guess that's possible. I do have another used flyback but it's untested and I ran out of new Hot's but I have a good one in another board I could try. Guess it's time to place another order.
Anyone have any thoughts on what's going on with this monitor? :confused:
Thanks
 
Are you sure it is running on isolated power? An overcurrent condition can cause parts to fail without blowing fuses. Then once the part fails (short) the fuses blow.
 
Oryk Zinyo said:
Are you sure it is running on isolated power? An overcurrent condition can cause parts to fail without blowing fuses. Then once the part fails (short) the fuses blow.
Click to expand...

Yep I am sure. It's getting power from the isolation transformer in the cabinet and the game is plugged into a Kill A Watt Power Strip and Energy meter which has a built in soft power up and surge protection and I can see how many amps the game is drawing.
9034ps.jpg
 
I put in a used but good HOT(last one I had) and fired the monitor up. It sounded like normal wile powering up but quickly died. It blew the 3 amp fuse. It's doing the same thing it did when the original flyback was bad. This time it had the flyback out of my Frogger 4600 and was working fine till now. Could I have such bad luck that another 4600 flyback bit the dust or could something else be killing the flyback? Could the tube have an intermittent short blowing the flyback? Guess I need a pic tube tester now. :rolleyes:
Any Ideas? I got more Hot's on the way and I have another flyback but not sure if it's good or not but if it's good I don't want to kill it. 4600 flybacks don't grow on trees.
 
Damn, I wish you had picked this up while I was in town. I had tools with me for testing the flybacks and tube.

I doubt the tube is killing the flyback, I am more prone to suspect the B+ voltage getting too high and the overvoltage tripping it offline.
 
Sorry to take away from the original poster but my k4600 never worked as well. Was planning to just throw a pc monitor in there but if i can save it, i'll try. First off i don't no shit about electronics let alone monitors. Is there a fuse in the k4600 and if so where? I plan on checking that and possibly doing a cap kit. Also, what is the HOT?
 
Oryk Zinyo said:
Damn, I wish you had picked this up while I was in town. I had tools with me for testing the flybacks and tube.

I doubt the tube is killing the flyback, I am more prone to suspect the B+ voltage getting too high and the overvoltage tripping it offline.
Click to expand...

Well, the B+ voltage was dead on wile the monitor was working and after it died I put all 3 boards which includes the LV power supply regulator board in my Frogger 4600 which I just finished a cap kit on and everything was dead on working great. I still don't know what would blow the HOT other than the flyback going bad. I got more HOTs on order and should be here in a few days. If the last flyback I have turns out to be bad I guess I could always try one of those 8 liner replacement chassis.:rolleyes:
 
Cpen5311 said:
Sorry to take away from the original poster but my k4600 never worked as well. Was planning to just throw a pc monitor in there but if i can save it, i'll try. First off i don't no shit about electronics let alone monitors. Is there a fuse in the k4600 and if so where? I plan on checking that and possibly doing a cap kit. Also, what is the HOT?
Click to expand...

Yes, theirs a 3 amp pigtail fuse on the board right behind where the power wire is attached. It will have a clear plastic tube over it which has turned yellow/brown and is no longer clear which makes it impossible to see if the fuse is blown. The fuse is soldered in and must be un soldered from the bottom of the board.
The HOT is the Horizontal Output Transistor, it's on the right side looking from the back of the monitor and looks like a bottle cap. The one on the left side is the low voltage regulator.
 
SaminVA said:
Yes, theirs a 3 amp pigtail fuse on the board right behind where the power wire is attached. It will have a clear plastic tube over it which has turned yellow/brown and is no longer clear which makes it impossible to see if the fuse is blown. The fuse is soldered in and must be un soldered from the bottom of the board.
The HOT is the Horizontal Output Transistor, it's on the right side looking from the back of the monitor and looks like a bottle cap. The one on the left side is the low voltage regulator.
Click to expand...
Alright, better find my soldering iron lol thanks.
 
Cpen5311 said:
Alright, better find my soldering iron lol thanks.
Click to expand...

If your fuse is blown it's provably because something is shorted so it might be a waste of time and a fuse plus you have to take the board out of the frame to unsolder the fuse. Just take 2 jumper wires with alligator clips on the end and use them to jump a new 3 amp fuse across the old fuse. You might have to cut the plastic cover off the fuse to make it easer to clip the wires on to it. Then fire it up and if the fuse blows then you need to test the HOT and the regulator. They are the 2 bottle cap looking transistors, HOT on the right, regulator on the left. Take a look at this post by Dokert to see how you check them for a short with a volt-ohm meter.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=126760&highlight=hot
 
Well hear is the latest on my Pacman WG K4600 monitor from Hell.
It's ALIVE again, but for how long who know's.
Right now it's on my bench and seems to be working just fine. It's been on for 1 hour so far.
I got my order from Bob Roberts today which included 5 new BU208A HOT's for this thing and at $5.00 a pop I really didn't want to waste one just to prove the second flyback was bad but if I didn't I would never know for sure if it was bad so I put a new HOT in the chassis and I picked up one of Bob's 2.5 amp circuit breakers with alligator clips to save on fuses. I fired it up with a volt meter reading the B+ voltage and before it got up to 60 volts DC the breaker tripped. I tested the new HOT and it was bad so replaced the HOT again, Pulled out the flyback and installed another flyback I just got from Rob at The Arcade Boneyard for $7.99 plus shipping. He told me up front it was un tested and had no idea if it would work but the price was right and he had another part I needed for my Frogger. He shipped the stuff very fast and I got a good deal. If you need parts give him a try. I put the new used flyback in the monitor hooked everything back up and once again fired it up and I could once again hear the sweet sound of Hi-voltage and deflection chatter so the flyback was good. Now the only question is how long will this one last? I know these 4600's are 30 years old and I guess it depends on how many hours the parts have been run. I just hate to reinstall it in the game just to last a few hours and have to pull it back out but I guess that's the name of the game and I guess time will tell. :D
 
Hey, just got a game with a 4600 in it. Was searching the forums about 4600's just to educate myself about them before I attempt a repair, and came across this thread. How did everything turn out? Is the monitor still chugging along?
 
I am happy to say so far I have had no other problems with this K4600 and it's still working just fine. :D When everything's working it's a great monitor. Just hope your flyback is good because to my knowledge no new replacements have been made yet.
 
Glad to hear everything worked out, with all the trouble you had been having with it.

Well the good news is it works. Although the picture is super dim and distorted. I actually have most of the caps on hand, but I'm short about 5 caps, so I'm contemplating ordering from Mouser. The only problem, is I read a thread that says the 4600 uses a high frequency Bi-polar cap that's not available from Mouser. Is this true? I need several other odd cap values for another project so Mouser makes the most sense because I can order what I need. I'd rather not order from Mouser and Bob if I can avoid it.
 
mhanlen1 said:
Glad to hear everything worked out, with all the trouble you had been having with it.

Well the good news is it works. Although the picture is super dim and distorted. I actually have most of the caps on hand, but I'm short about 5 caps, so I'm contemplating ordering from Mouser. The only problem, is I read a thread that says the 4600 uses a high frequency Bi-polar cap that's not available from Mouser. Is this true? I need several other odd cap values for another project so Mouser makes the most sense because I can order what I need. I'd rather not order from Mouser and Bob if I can avoid it.
Click to expand...

You can get the high freq bi-polars from Jameco

Arcadecup should have the flys pretty soon if not already.
 
SaminVA said:
Well, the B+ voltage was dead on wile the monitor was working and after it died I put all 3 boards which includes the LV power supply regulator board in my Frogger 4600 which I just finished a cap kit on and everything was dead on working great. I still don't know what would blow the HOT other than the flyback going bad.
Click to expand...

The fly in my K4900 died, taking the VR and HOT with it. Before I replaced the fly I replaced the VR and HOT, no joy. After the fly I replaced just the HOT a couple of times during testing. Seems that the fly had damaged the VR and it was frying HOT's at power up. After I replaced the VR and HOT as a pair, I haven't had a problem with it. Going forward, I'll replace the VR and HOT anytime I replace a fly whether they appear to need it or not.
 
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