19K4606 in my $110.00 Pacman,dead

SaminVA

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Ok, last week I picked up this Pacman for $110.00 non-working. I believe the monitor is original to the game with Pacman screen burn-in. The monitor is a WG 19K4606 and it was already removed from the game when I got it. I tried to get some life out of the pacman board to see if the game would play blind but after cleaning the edge connector and fixing a broken wire on the test switch and found the ground wire pin to the control panel had pushed out the Molex connector I now get the correct voltages on the board and when I trip the coin switch the coin counter registers a credit but when I hit player 1 or player 2 button I get nothing. I decided to hook up a monitor and see if I was getting any video of if the test screen would show but I couldn't find my 13" G07 test monitor. How do you loose a monitor? Well I decided to try the 4606 that came with the game, figured it would be best to try it and see if it had any life signs as I was hoping maybe all it needed was a cap kit. I hooked it up and powered up the game and no picture but I could hear a low tic tic sound and fuse number 8 the 1.5 A slow blow fuse in the bottom of the cabinet started glowing orange. I quickly cut the power. I assume this is the fuse for the monitor, it's one on the 2 fuse block on the left side on the transformers the one to the top or toward the front of the cabinet. The 3 amp fuse in the monitor is good.
So I brought the monitor in and put it on the bench and began pulling it apart to install a cap kit. I did a search and read everything I could find on a WG4600 and have a flow chart, schematic and parts list and I have a Bob Roberts cap kit. I have capped working 4600s before with no problems but this is my first dead one. Besides checking the HOT and replacing the caps are their any other parts I should check out wile I have it apart? And If I need a new HOT where is the best place to get one as I didn't see one on Bob's site unless theirs a replacement number. Mine has a 2SC1893. I am going to start with a cap kit and I would appreciate any idea's
Thanks
 

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Don't see anything there that I wouldn't expect to see on an uncapped 4600, including the dirt on the chassis.

I noticed that in the 3rd pic that the neckboard is angled and not parallel to the face of the tube. I hope it's just loose and the neck isn't broken.

Cap it, reflow all the cold solder (especially around the daughterboard connectors), check the VR and the HOT, and see what happens...
 
Don't see anything there that I wouldn't expect to see on an uncapped 4600, including the dirt on the chassis.

I noticed that in the 3rd pic that the neckboard is angled and not parallel to the face of the tube. I hope it's just loose and the neck isn't broken.

Cap it, reflow all the cold solder (especially around the daughterboard connectors), check the VR and the HOT, and see what happens...

Thank's Mod for the reply. Yea the neck board was just loose, the tube neck looks Ok. I'll be sure to check all you told me about. I assume when you say check the VR you are talking about VR201 the black level pot?:)
 
I've probably messed with about 30 4600's over the years, and I've only had 1 or 2 I couldn't get working with only a capkit. The only other issue I've had is that sometimes the screen will jump on them (not because of cold joints, a really violent snap! with a jump) and that ended up being that large cap on the back corner of the board, the Axial one. I've fixed several that were completely dead by swapping the cards out on them, too, so if it still acts up after you recap it, you should try swapping the two cards if you have any others.
 
Thank's Mod for the reply. Yea the neck board was just loose, the tube neck looks Ok. I'll be sure to check all you told me about. I assume when you say check the VR you are talking about VR201 the black level pot?:)

VR = Voltage Regulator

I think just a cap kit and cold solder check will fix you up. I just fixed one today that was completely dead. Installed a cap kit, touched up the solder on the daughterboard connectors, and it fired up just fine...
 
OK here's an update. I installed a Bob Roberts cap kit and resoldered all header pins and sockets and put it all back together. I fired it up on the bench with no game signal connected. I figured I could make some voltage checks and it should have a blank white raster if it was working. When I plugged it in I thought I heard deflection chatter but I could not see any neck glow in the tube neck and the screen looked dark and then I noticed the sound had stopped. I unplugged it and the HOT was warm. I got my volt meter out and fired it up again and I have no voltage on the blue lead on TR505 which is supposed to be +127VDC. So I decided to narrow the problem some. I have a working 4600 in a Frogger so I pulled the 3 boards from my dead monitor and headed out to the garage to try them in the Frogger monitor. The monitor in the Frogger works but also needs a cap kit. It has a slight vertical roll that will lock in only after the monitor warms up.
First I installed the Vert/Hor board and it worked.
Next I installed the Interface board and I got no picture but when you switch the game off you can see a picture for a split second wile the monitor was powering down so it might be something simple to fix on this board.
So I put the working Interface board back in and next I swapped the Power supply board and fired the monitor back up and it works so that leaves the main board and the HV transformer.
So what should I try next? Swap in the HV transformer to eliminate that next.
What supplies the filament voltage for the tube?
What could keep the Power board from working on the main board? The fuse tested good?
I'll try and dig a little deeper tomorrow.
Thanks for any help.
 
Take the interface daughter card and make sure that the new VR 201 you installed is at least centered and try it in your working monitor again.

Most people install these and they are turned all of the way down, and the monitor appears to be dead, when it is just really black.
 
Take the interface daughter card and make sure that the new VR 201 you installed is at least centered and try it in your working monitor again.

Most people install these and they are turned all of the way down, and the monitor appears to be dead, when it is just really black.

Thanks, I'll try that. I did turn it from the middle to 3/4 position to the right but now That I think about it maybe I turned it down to 1/4 position because I installed the new pot on the back side of the card like the instructions said to do so will that reverse the direction? maybe maybe not.
As for the problem of no voltage from the power regulator board which works in the Frogger I was looking at the schematics and it get's it's voltage from 4 diodes X601-X604 so Ill check those next. Where dose the HV transformer get it's voltage from? direct from the out put of these 4 diodes or from the regulated out put of the regulated power board. It looks like the tube filament voltage comes from the HV transformer and if it's not getting voltage then that's why it's dead. I'll have to look over the schematics some more.
 
I got some time today to try a few things. Turns out the interface daughter card is good after all. I did have the pot turned the wrong way so after adjusting it the other way it now works. So now I have confirmed all 3 plug in boards are good.
So back to the main board. I re-checked the fuse and apparently it did blow so now I need to figure out why it blew. Looking at the schematic their are 4 rectifier diodes coming off the fuse but their is only one on the board at X601 and it tests good with the ohm meter so next I pulled the HOT TR601 which is a 2sc1893.
Ok how do I test this thing with an OHM meter and what should the readings be?
Collector to Emitter I get 4.3 ohms with the leads reversed both ways. Is that considered a short?
Hear are the readings I am getting
Red lead/Black lead=Ohms
C / E = 4.3 ohms
E / C = 4.3 ohms
B / E = 179.5 ohms
E / B = 257.3 ohms
C / B = 253.8 ohms
B / C = 176.1 ohms
I guess I'll just replace the HOT and fuse and try it again and see what happens.
Last question who sells a 2SC1893, I don't see it on Bob Roberts site. I crossed it over to a NTE389 but did not see it either. Any other numbers that cross over and where's the best place to order it?
I do have one local electronics supply store I can try.
Thanks
 
Hey guy's Please I need some help.
This 4600 is kicking my ass
I installed a cap kit , resoldered all the header and socket pins,replaced the 3 amp fuse and installed a new HOT I got from Bob Roberts Bu208A.
I tested the power regulator board and the 2 daughter cards in a working 4600 and all 3 work.
After putting it all back together I powered the monitor up. I had my DC volt meter hooked up to the blue wire off the voltage regulator so I could see what the voltage was and it got to 92 volts before the fuse blew which was maybe a second or two. When I got the monitor the Degauss coil was unplugged so I unplugged it and put another fuse in and tried it again but it blew that fuse too. I checked the new HOT and it's shot. What could be the problem? Bad HV transformer? Bad Tube? I took the HV transformer off the frame and looked it over and I cant find any cracks. I only have one new HOT left. I thought about taking the good HV transformer off my working 4600 and trying that but thats a lot of work unless I unsolder that one big red wire going to the tube socket.
Anyone have any words of wisdom on which way to go next?
Thanks
 
Test the power regulator, it is a bottle cap trans 2sc1454. Test it like you would a HOT on a G07. Meter set to diode function, red lead to the center of the trans case, black lead to the chassis frame.
 
Test the power regulator, it is a bottle cap trans 2sc1454. Test it like you would a HOT on a G07. Meter set to diode function, red lead to the center of the trans case, black lead to the chassis frame.

Ok I'll test it now but this plug in board worked in my other monitor
 
The 2sc1454 tests good. As I said the plug in board works in my other 4600.
Is their a way to test the HV transformer?
 
Check the other bottle cap trans on the other side of the chassis.

Thats the HOT. It was bad so after I put the cap kit in and reflowed all the pins I put a new HOT I just got from Bob and when I pluged it up it blew the fuse and the new HOT. I have one more new HOT but need to find what cause it to blow before I try it again.
 
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