opt2not
Well-known member
The is just an incredible restore! Keep the great progress, I'm always thinking "what will he do next?!" whenever I see a post update.
1982 Sega Star Trek Captains' Chair Restoration
- Thread starter Zitt
- Start date
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- Tags
- g80 restoration sega star trek
Zitt
Member
Thanks.
The last few days; I've been working on the decking... I decided to replace the rubber w/ carpet. Still waiting on the Tslot cutter before I can reassemble the monitor side.
I've also designed some kickplates to replace the decking trim; but I'm still waiting on a CNC plasma quote before I move forward.
The last few days; I've been working on the decking... I decided to replace the rubber w/ carpet. Still waiting on the Tslot cutter before I can reassemble the monitor side.
I've also designed some kickplates to replace the decking trim; but I'm still waiting on a CNC plasma quote before I move forward.
Muel
Well-known member
I know, this is by far one of my favorite threads going on KLOV!
I can't wait to hear about your new PSU up and working! That has to be the most amazing part of the retrofit to date.
What carpet did you end up going with?? The rubber mat on my Captain's Chair is still okay, no cuts or chips in it - but if I ever stripped mine down as far as you did, I also thought of changing the mat out to a carpet as well.
Did you re-do the chair seat as well?
-Muel
vernimark
Member
Zitt, I want to be clear with you.
I never posted any answer or suggestion about your ST restoration but I followed your improvements... ST cabinet is one of my wet dreams. definitely. I hate you!
very very compliments! A very good work!
I never posted any answer or suggestion about your ST restoration but I followed your improvements... ST cabinet is one of my wet dreams. definitely. I hate you!
very very compliments! A very good work!Zitt
Member
vernimark.
It's nice to be hated so much. Thanks for the comments.
I don't mind the drool comments - they keep me posting.
Muel,
I ended up going with some charcoal black carpet from Lowes. It has some ridging; but not like the original rubber. I'd really rather have done it in Grey... but lowes didn't seem to have "ridged" grey simular to the original rubber. I just liked the look of drew's carpet on his chair.
I will be redoing the seat - but you'll have to wait to see if my plan works like I hope.
Tonight I ripped all the grey carpet and rubber out of chair side. I'm going to try and remove the contact cement and install the new stuff tomorrow.
I did get my t-moulding and slot cutter today from GroovyGameGear.com but I did not realize the machine had different width t-moulding... and I got 74feet of the smaller 3/4". :doh!:
Progress will be less now... as prior to this; I was on my 2nd paid sabbatical until May 9th. <Sigh> I hate being a working stiff again.
It's nice to be hated so much.
Thanks for the comments.I don't mind the drool comments - they keep me posting.
Muel,
I ended up going with some charcoal black carpet from Lowes. It has some ridging; but not like the original rubber. I'd really rather have done it in Grey... but lowes didn't seem to have "ridged" grey simular to the original rubber. I just liked the look of drew's carpet on his chair.
I will be redoing the seat - but you'll have to wait to see if my plan works like I hope.
Tonight I ripped all the grey carpet and rubber out of chair side. I'm going to try and remove the contact cement and install the new stuff tomorrow.
I did get my t-moulding and slot cutter today from GroovyGameGear.com but I did not realize the machine had different width t-moulding... and I got 74feet of the smaller 3/4". :doh!:
Progress will be less now... as prior to this; I was on my 2nd paid sabbatical until May 9th. <Sigh> I hate being a working stiff again.
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knight rider
Member
It would be awesome if someone would come up with the side art for the monitor andthe back of the chair art.
loadrunner
New member
I dont do the game restoration thingy as I lack both a workshop and the skills/time I have to say though that this Captains chair Star Trek restoration is by far the most detailed restoration I have ever seen on KLOV.....this game is one of my all time faves and I only ever got to play it on the upright version.....the cockpit version is the cat's ass much like spyhunter.Kudos to the OP for his hard work and his meticulous attention to detail.I can imagine how wicked it will look when it is finished.
Zitt
Member
Thanks loadrunner... appreciate it.
Knight - I agree.
While I waited on the Tslot cutter to arrive by mail; I started working on the Captains Chair Decking. First I removed the old grey rubber and proceeded to repair the corners with 2part wood putty. I didn't really take any pictures here; so I'll try to do so for the monitor decking.
Anyway; I repainted the side decking and installed the missing Tnuts from my Mcmaster order earlier in the thread:
Fit like a glove... my only issue is that I don't have a stapler which can put the banding around it like stock. Not sure what I'm going to do right now.
I used 3M's 77 spray adhesive to attach the carpet:
Leaving wood for the brackets to attach to - IE to help keep the chair from rocking due to a carpet sandwich.
For now I reattached the metal lip:
Knight - I agree.
While I waited on the Tslot cutter to arrive by mail; I started working on the Captains Chair Decking. First I removed the old grey rubber and proceeded to repair the corners with 2part wood putty. I didn't really take any pictures here; so I'll try to do so for the monitor decking.
Anyway; I repainted the side decking and installed the missing Tnuts from my Mcmaster order earlier in the thread:
Fit like a glove... my only issue is that I don't have a stapler which can put the banding around it like stock. Not sure what I'm going to do right now.
I used 3M's 77 spray adhesive to attach the carpet:
Leaving wood for the brackets to attach to - IE to help keep the chair from rocking due to a carpet sandwich.
For now I reattached the metal lip:
Zitt
Member
With the decking in good order; it was time to move to the chair. Here are some reminders pics of how uncomfortable and nasty the seat is...
ick!
If the rubber decking went - so would the front of the chair:
To the trash they go...
ick!
If the rubber decking went - so would the front of the chair:
To the trash they go...
Zitt
Member
I thought about using carpet... but two things came to mind. One: Boy, carpet with no cushion must be uncomfortable. And Two: The seat doesn't look very Star-Trek Like... Some of my heros have been painstakenly replicating the TOS Captains Chair is this thread on Yuku's ProReplicas... so I stopped by for some pictures of the seat cushions on the chair. Turns out there is an internet belief that the chair was based upon this chair in the late 60s:
I've never done Upholstry before... but I wanted to give it a shot; so now I have a plan.
I went to Hancock fabrics to see what they had for a simular look. They had some black PLeather which should stand up well. Some research on google as to how to do some Upholstry work informed me that I need some high density Upholstry foam and some batting. Hancock also carried the Foam and Batting. I bought two yards of the black PLeather. 1.5yrs of the 1" foam, and 1yrd of 0.5" batting.
Prior to deciding on the Pleather; I had purchased some carpet padding; to provide a little cushion on the seat and back... with that plan scrapped; I had leftovers - but became part of the new plan. I printed the picture to paper and determined the ratio of top back cushion to chair height. Measuring the height of the Sega chair back; I determined the new top back cushion should be 9 inches.
I developed a plan in my head where I'd fold the pleather over the top and into the seat back by about 3/4". I marked a 3/4" border around the seat back with a blue sharpie.
I started by spraying 3M 77 adhesive on the top of the chair's seat back - covering the black wood with blue tape to prevent the adhesive from getting on the cosmetic wood. I sprayed the
top wraparound area and the first inch or so of the top of the back. The spray adhesive needs to be on both sides; so I sprayed the first 3-4inches of the pleather back. After letting the adhesive get tacky - about 1minute; I carefully positioned the pleather over the top and wrapped it to the blue like I'd made at 3/4". Sorry; I forgot to snap a picture at this step.
I measured a line 9" for the top and cut the carpet padding to the inside 3/4". Spray Adhesive again to mount the carpet padding to the wood.
I cut the Foam to full size. 9" to the blue line from the top and side to side... making sure not to have it overlap into the tounge of the back - IE so it didn't interfear with the sides when they are put back in place. Following the Upholstry video I found via google; I wrapped the batting around the top side of the Foam. I used the adhesive again. I then sprayed adhesive on the top of the padding, and bottom of the foam.
Allowing the adhesive to get tacky as with all previous and future steps.
I then sprayed the top batting and underside of the Pleather and wrapped the pleather around the new cushion - making sure to wet the "bottom" side of the cushion - IE to replicate the midseam on the orginal chair.
Again; too busy wrapping and didn't snap a picture. :doh:
I've never done Upholstry before... but I wanted to give it a shot; so now I have a plan.
I went to Hancock fabrics to see what they had for a simular look. They had some black PLeather which should stand up well. Some research on google as to how to do some Upholstry work informed me that I need some high density Upholstry foam and some batting. Hancock also carried the Foam and Batting. I bought two yards of the black PLeather. 1.5yrs of the 1" foam, and 1yrd of 0.5" batting.
Prior to deciding on the Pleather; I had purchased some carpet padding; to provide a little cushion on the seat and back... with that plan scrapped; I had leftovers - but became part of the new plan. I printed the picture to paper and determined the ratio of top back cushion to chair height. Measuring the height of the Sega chair back; I determined the new top back cushion should be 9 inches.
I developed a plan in my head where I'd fold the pleather over the top and into the seat back by about 3/4". I marked a 3/4" border around the seat back with a blue sharpie.
I started by spraying 3M 77 adhesive on the top of the chair's seat back - covering the black wood with blue tape to prevent the adhesive from getting on the cosmetic wood. I sprayed the
top wraparound area and the first inch or so of the top of the back. The spray adhesive needs to be on both sides; so I sprayed the first 3-4inches of the pleather back. After letting the adhesive get tacky - about 1minute; I carefully positioned the pleather over the top and wrapped it to the blue like I'd made at 3/4". Sorry; I forgot to snap a picture at this step.
I measured a line 9" for the top and cut the carpet padding to the inside 3/4". Spray Adhesive again to mount the carpet padding to the wood.
I cut the Foam to full size. 9" to the blue line from the top and side to side... making sure not to have it overlap into the tounge of the back - IE so it didn't interfear with the sides when they are put back in place. Following the Upholstry video I found via google; I wrapped the batting around the top side of the Foam. I used the adhesive again. I then sprayed adhesive on the top of the padding, and bottom of the foam.
Allowing the adhesive to get tacky as with all previous and future steps.
I then sprayed the top batting and underside of the Pleather and wrapped the pleather around the new cushion - making sure to wet the "bottom" side of the cushion - IE to replicate the midseam on the orginal chair.
Again; too busy wrapping and didn't snap a picture. :doh:
Zitt
Member
Repeat / rinse for the bottom cushion:
Now I'd cut the pleather with plenty of extras on the end... at like 28" long and about 2 inches on each side. Turns out I needed 28.5 or maybe 30". I wanted the bottom cushion to "seam" the the underside of the seat channel. It wouldn't quite reach. I needed about 0.2"... oh well; the top seat cushion should cover it up.
I folded the top corners like a "gift" as indicated in that video... and generally cleaned up the new cushion.
Do I think it's perfect ? No. But not at all bad for a first Upholsery job. And I think it emulates the back of the seat fairly well.
Now I'd cut the pleather with plenty of extras on the end... at like 28" long and about 2 inches on each side. Turns out I needed 28.5 or maybe 30". I wanted the bottom cushion to "seam" the the underside of the seat channel. It wouldn't quite reach. I needed about 0.2"... oh well; the top seat cushion should cover it up.
I folded the top corners like a "gift" as indicated in that video... and generally cleaned up the new cushion.
Do I think it's perfect ? No. But not at all bad for a first Upholsery job. And I think it emulates the back of the seat fairly well.
Zitt
Member
Now; we move to the seat cushion. Same process. Measure 3/4" sides. Carpet pad:
Foam+Batting:
Wrap and fold the pleather.
A good estimate of the seat cushion!
Foam+Batting:
Wrap and fold the pleather.
A good estimate of the seat cushion!
Zitt
Member
Might as well finish off the look by putting the pleather on the front:
And done:
At this point my Brain should have been screaming:
"Particle Board is worthless. It's fragile. Don't man handle it. Remember it's complete garbage!"
However, I was tired and the brain was pleased with the work... and didn't think right:
Yeap.... While removing the chair from work table... the back just decided to snap at the seat cushion notch. And no - I wasn't even lifting it from the back - I was lifting from the seat bottom.
$#!F#!%% insert your favorite four letter word here.
12hrs worth of work... gone.
Chair is toast.
Artwork destroyed.
$#@%#$@#$
And done:
At this point my Brain should have been screaming:
"Particle Board is worthless. It's fragile. Don't man handle it. Remember it's complete garbage!"
However, I was tired and the brain was pleased with the work... and didn't think right:
Yeap.... While removing the chair from work table... the back just decided to snap at the seat cushion notch. And no - I wasn't even lifting it from the back - I was lifting from the seat bottom.
$#!F#!%% insert your favorite four letter word here.
12hrs worth of work... gone.
Chair is toast.
Artwork destroyed.
$#@%#$@#$
Muel
Well-known member
OMFG!!
Nooooooooooo!!!
-Muel
Nooooooooooo!!!
-Muel
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Tighe
Well-known member
It is right at the bottom of the artwork, after you patch that piece you could mask the very bottom and paint it white.
mjenison
Well-known member
Considering the enormous amount of work I've seen on this thread so far, I completely expect this to turn into an epic artwork-remove-without-destroying-it thread or scan-and-reproduce-artwork thread. I don't think a little thing like the cabinet snapping in half is going to stop this guy from commanding the Enterprise.
Zitt
Member
It was time to recover from the disaster - luckly; that was possible given the back was the only piece I had a duplicate of. While the spray adhesive was still setting up; I quickly pulled the seat cushion off the broken back. I then proceeded to remove the back from the base:
I attached the new seat cushion to the new back using the same spray adhesive. I cleaned up the edges and used wood glue to attach the new back to the the base - clamping tightly for an overnight drying. Once I had the base/back united; I used some wratching straps to glue the sides onto the back. While I had the sides off; I used some ME foam and Simply green to clean the dirt, finger prints, and other marks from the melamime side of the chair.
And here is the cushion side - still in bondage:
Again - the wood glue needed to dry; so I moved back to the monitor side.
I attached the new seat cushion to the new back using the same spray adhesive. I cleaned up the edges and used wood glue to attach the new back to the the base - clamping tightly for an overnight drying. Once I had the base/back united; I used some wratching straps to glue the sides onto the back. While I had the sides off; I used some ME foam and Simply green to clean the dirt, finger prints, and other marks from the melamime side of the chair.
And here is the cushion side - still in bondage:
Again - the wood glue needed to dry; so I moved back to the monitor side.
Zitt
Member
If you recall from above; my left side leg was badly damaged and a replacement was cut out of melamime backed MDF. This MDF has both sides with Melamime; so we'd have to take care to ensure paint would stick to the inside. On the original side; the factory brushed black paint on the bear particle board. I needed to emulate this.
However, before doing the paint; I needed to cut the tslot channels. I orderd the slot cutter with the tmoulding; so I attached it to my router table and but the channel grove:
I had to remove the wood guide from the table so I could spin the peice as necessary to cut on the inside of the notch.
At first I tried plain black spray paint. Once dry it proved to be a scratch magnet... IE the paint really didn't stick. So I tried some Plastic spray paint from Lowes which I had in my paint collection. Deep Black went on the sides and along the tmoulding edges.
Then using the old leg as a guide I drilled pilot holes for the lower bracket so it'd line up properly. I checked and double checked to make sure the side fit properly before moving on to the glueing stage. Given the leg was moved over a month ago; the left side needed to be pulled into place. For glueing I wanted to move somewhat quickly; so I wanted to try some new glue instead of my elmers wood glue. I went with Gorilla glue - white. According to the label; has a 5-10minute working time and clamping time of 30-60minutes. I damped both sides along the seams where the new left leg would attached to the particle board of the original. I ran a bead of the glue along the particle board seams then quickly attached the left leg; using the bottom bracket for gross alignment. Then move the two peices together until the top corners were aligned / flush with each other. I then clamped the tops tightly together using some clamps.
I then used some wratchet straps to do additional clamping action.
Additional clamping at the bottom to ensure the rear door would fit well later.
Once the clamps were in place; I drove the black wood screws (reused) into the MDF for final assembly of the left side to the monitor base. I use a pnematic staple gun to drive some new 1/4" crown 1.25" staples into the wood braces just like the factory did.
At this point it was like 1:30am - so I wrapped up for the night and let the glue lines foam and cure. According to the label; I only need to clamp for an hour and the glue line would be at 80% strength... a fact I take advantage of Sunday.
However, before doing the paint; I needed to cut the tslot channels. I orderd the slot cutter with the tmoulding; so I attached it to my router table and but the channel grove:
I had to remove the wood guide from the table so I could spin the peice as necessary to cut on the inside of the notch.
At first I tried plain black spray paint. Once dry it proved to be a scratch magnet... IE the paint really didn't stick. So I tried some Plastic spray paint from Lowes which I had in my paint collection. Deep Black went on the sides and along the tmoulding edges.
Then using the old leg as a guide I drilled pilot holes for the lower bracket so it'd line up properly. I checked and double checked to make sure the side fit properly before moving on to the glueing stage. Given the leg was moved over a month ago; the left side needed to be pulled into place. For glueing I wanted to move somewhat quickly; so I wanted to try some new glue instead of my elmers wood glue. I went with Gorilla glue - white. According to the label; has a 5-10minute working time and clamping time of 30-60minutes. I damped both sides along the seams where the new left leg would attached to the particle board of the original. I ran a bead of the glue along the particle board seams then quickly attached the left leg; using the bottom bracket for gross alignment. Then move the two peices together until the top corners were aligned / flush with each other. I then clamped the tops tightly together using some clamps.
I then used some wratchet straps to do additional clamping action.
Additional clamping at the bottom to ensure the rear door would fit well later.
Once the clamps were in place; I drove the black wood screws (reused) into the MDF for final assembly of the left side to the monitor base. I use a pnematic staple gun to drive some new 1/4" crown 1.25" staples into the wood braces just like the factory did.
At this point it was like 1:30am - so I wrapped up for the night and let the glue lines foam and cure. According to the label; I only need to clamp for an hour and the glue line would be at 80% strength... a fact I take advantage of Sunday.
Zitt
Member
I woke up the next morning and checked the progress... solid and looked good so I continued assembly of the monitor side. I reused the wood block - drilling some shallow pilot holes for the wood screws on top. I then dampped both sides and ran several gorrilla glue beads. Clamped and ran the wood screws into the MDF:
Set the timer on my cellphone and did other work.
1hr later; I ran a glue line along the top of the base. I positioned the base using the 6 screws removed during assembly to ensure the base was aligned to the top... and clamped in place for another hour.
Again; I ran 1/4" crown staples into the base from the top side - just like the factory.
After the afore meantioned time; I ran a bead of glue long the topbase and attached the monitor housing to the base - clamping at the bottom with a wratchet strap:
While I waited for the final glue to dry - I had to remove the tape residue from the top Melamime. When the wood was stored by the previous owner; the back was packing taped to the top leaving lots of adhesive residue:
The residue was removed with a Xytol damppend blue shop towel and a lot of elbow grease. Once the residue was removed the ME foam and simply green took off the dirt and marks.
Set the timer on my cellphone and did other work.
1hr later; I ran a glue line along the top of the base. I positioned the base using the 6 screws removed during assembly to ensure the base was aligned to the top... and clamped in place for another hour.
Again; I ran 1/4" crown staples into the base from the top side - just like the factory.
After the afore meantioned time; I ran a bead of glue long the topbase and attached the monitor housing to the base - clamping at the bottom with a wratchet strap:
While I waited for the final glue to dry - I had to remove the tape residue from the top Melamime. When the wood was stored by the previous owner; the back was packing taped to the top leaving lots of adhesive residue:
The residue was removed with a Xytol damppend blue shop towel and a lot of elbow grease. Once the residue was removed the ME foam and simply green took off the dirt and marks.
Zitt
Member
If you look at the packing tape picture you'll notice that my hardware was beginning to rust. I assume Sega used Black Oxide carriage bolts to mount everything external... including fan panels; top monitor mounts whatever. The last 30yrs were not kind to these bolts. As such; while out getting plastic last week - I went by Austin Bolt Company and got some Stainless Steel hardware to replace this rusted crap. The problem with Stainless Steel is ... well... it's metalic in color. Not a good match for all black hardware. That won't do.
I got a scrap peice of Aluminum and drilled 15qty #25 holes spaced approx 15mm from each other in a grid format. I also drilled 5 qty #29 holes. I then tapped the #25 holes with a #10-24 tap... and the #29 w/ a #8-32 tap. I put the new stainless steel carriage bolts into the #10 holes.
The plan was to powdercoat the heads black to match the other peices of hardware - so I used the sandblasting hood to remove any oil or belmishes from the heads of the bolts.
And finished in magic black powdercoat:
And here is the new head in its final resting place:
That's all I can report from this past weekend's activities. I'm working on the plastics and hope to be able to post an update on those soon. I've also begun redoing the monitor decking so expect an update on that eventually.
I don't expect to be getting much done over memorial day weekend - given I'll be getting my STNG backglass signed by Miss Troi herself. But stay tuned...
I got a scrap peice of Aluminum and drilled 15qty #25 holes spaced approx 15mm from each other in a grid format. I also drilled 5 qty #29 holes. I then tapped the #25 holes with a #10-24 tap... and the #29 w/ a #8-32 tap. I put the new stainless steel carriage bolts into the #10 holes.
The plan was to powdercoat the heads black to match the other peices of hardware - so I used the sandblasting hood to remove any oil or belmishes from the heads of the bolts.
And finished in magic black powdercoat:
And here is the new head in its final resting place:
That's all I can report from this past weekend's activities. I'm working on the plastics and hope to be able to post an update on those soon. I've also begun redoing the monitor decking so expect an update on that eventually.
I don't expect to be getting much done over memorial day weekend - given I'll be getting my STNG backglass signed by Miss Troi herself. But stay tuned...
