Some of those problems you had with the Vision Pro were probably due to poor voltage regualtion.
Could be but it was a NIB monitor from when they were still being made so it would have likely been that way on all of them.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Some of those problems you had with the Vision Pro were probably due to poor voltage regualtion.
just so u are clear
sync in a go7 goes right into ic501
after it is buffered by its input transistors
x301,x302,x305,x306 depending on which sync signal u used + or -
in ic501 it is then used to sync horz osc and vert reference
ed
Could be but it was a NIB monitor from when they were still being made so it would have likely been that way on all of them.
Well I got some success today but it's still not quite right. The pictures below are from this setup. Game board plugs into a cga to vga adapter, then I use a vga 15 pin to vga 9 pin adapter cord that plugs into the xvga GBS 8219 converter. The converters output is vga 15 which plugs directly into the 19" vision pro lcd monitor.
Issue with the setup: the image starts off a bit dark then slowly gets brighter until the screen is fully white. This takes about 5 to 10 mins. If you reset the game or the converter it will go back to dark and slowly work it's way back to white. I think what's happening is the converter is slowly compensating for the weak signal and it keeps adding brightness.
What I've discovered, as touched on in another post is that Trons native refresh rate is horizontal 15,750hz ( 15.7 khz) and vertical 60hz. MCR games use odd pulse rates that are not standard which is why they appear to be 30 hz to most monitors by mistake. I got some decent pictures from this setup but it is far from ready to play. Looks better in person. Colors look right, ghosting is from the motion of the game when taking a picture. There's some glow to my pictures but that's because my phone camera isn't the best and the screen still has it's protective plastic screen wrap from when I took it out of the box (also the issue stated above). What I've come to conclude is this game does not need a converter but a signal booster and corrector to make it pulse in a more standard way. More to come !
This sounds like clamping settings on the converter card and is common and can be adjusted. There are "how tos" all over. Give one a go.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9rrQOc4IUY