19" LCD replacement monitors with MCR games

Some of those problems you had with the Vision Pro were probably due to poor voltage regualtion.

Could be but it was a NIB monitor from when they were still being made so it would have likely been that way on all of them.
 
just so u are clear
sync in a go7 goes right into ic501
after it is buffered by its input transistors
x301,x302,x305,x306 depending on which sync signal u used + or -
in ic501 it is then used to sync horz osc and vert reference

ed
 
just so u are clear
sync in a go7 goes right into ic501
after it is buffered by its input transistors
x301,x302,x305,x306 depending on which sync signal u used + or -
in ic501 it is then used to sync horz osc and vert reference

ed

Thank you.
 
Could be but it was a NIB monitor from when they were still being made so it would have likely been that way on all of them.

Yeah, new isnt always better as we have all discovered over the years.
 
Well I got some success today but it's still not quite right. The pictures below are from this setup. Game board plugs into a cga to vga adapter, then I use a vga 15 pin to vga 9 pin adapter cord that plugs into the xvga GBS 8219 converter. The converters output is vga 15 which plugs directly into the 19" vision pro lcd monitor.

Issue with the setup: the image starts off a bit dark then slowly gets brighter until the screen is fully white. This takes about 5 to 10 mins. If you reset the game or the converter it will go back to dark and slowly work it's way back to white. I think what's happening is the converter is slowly compensating for the weak signal and it keeps adding brightness.

What I've discovered, as touched on in another post is that Trons native refresh rate is horizontal 15,750hz ( 15.7 khz) and vertical 60hz. MCR games use odd pulse rates that are not standard which is why they appear to be 30 hz to most monitors by mistake. I got some decent pictures from this setup but it is far from ready to play. Looks better in person. Colors look right, ghosting is from the motion of the game when taking a picture. There's some glow to my pictures but that's because my phone camera isn't the best and the screen still has it's protective plastic screen wrap from when I took it out of the box (also the issue stated above). What I've come to conclude is this game does not need a converter but a signal booster and corrector to make it pulse in a more standard way. More to come !
 

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Well I got some success today but it's still not quite right. The pictures below are from this setup. Game board plugs into a cga to vga adapter, then I use a vga 15 pin to vga 9 pin adapter cord that plugs into the xvga GBS 8219 converter. The converters output is vga 15 which plugs directly into the 19" vision pro lcd monitor.

Issue with the setup: the image starts off a bit dark then slowly gets brighter until the screen is fully white. This takes about 5 to 10 mins. If you reset the game or the converter it will go back to dark and slowly work it's way back to white. I think what's happening is the converter is slowly compensating for the weak signal and it keeps adding brightness.

What I've discovered, as touched on in another post is that Trons native refresh rate is horizontal 15,750hz ( 15.7 khz) and vertical 60hz. MCR games use odd pulse rates that are not standard which is why they appear to be 30 hz to most monitors by mistake. I got some decent pictures from this setup but it is far from ready to play. Looks better in person. Colors look right, ghosting is from the motion of the game when taking a picture. There's some glow to my pictures but that's because my phone camera isn't the best and the screen still has it's protective plastic screen wrap from when I took it out of the box (also the issue stated above). What I've come to conclude is this game does not need a converter but a signal booster and corrector to make it pulse in a more standard way. More to come !

This sounds like clamping settings on the converter card and is common and can be adjusted. There are "how tos" all over. Give one a go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9rrQOc4IUY
 
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This sounds like clamping settings on the converter card and is common and can be adjusted. There are "how tos" all over. Give one a go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9rrQOc4IUY

Thanks but the GBS 8219 is much different than the 8200 and 8220. My menu does not have a clamp setting . I do have a phase setting. Not sure about that. Resistance has 75 and 750 for options. The 750 setting makes the colors blur as if the screen in in bold font but the colors looks nice. 75 is much clearer. Phase doesn't make any difference no matter the setting. Resistance does not stop the screen from going white.
 

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