12v on Millipede for the trackball backlight?

TK_Monkey

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Just got a translucent green trackball and bob's backlighting kit for my Millipede. Pretty straightforward, uses a 12v 161 bulb, got it mounted just fine, but I'm having issues trying to figure out where to pull the 12v and gnd to make the light work.

http://www.thelawleys.com/pinouts/centipedemillipedepinouts.htm suggests getting the 12v from pin 4 on J10 on the ARII, but I'm still clueless as to where to pull gnd from and was hoping to avoid adding a pin to the molex. Tried using the test points on the ARII for 12v and gnd, which was likely stupid as hell but it didn't blow anything up, nor did it work.

Anyone done this and have thoughts as to where to pull the voltage from?
 
Okay, got things working thanks to the suggestion of Token420 and wanted to post the fix. He said he's using (I think) the lockout coil leads on the coin door, which according to the Millipede schematic carry 10v, he mentioned it as 12v, and metered on my machine is carrying around 15v. The lockout coils are paired with a white/red wire combo and a white/black wire combo, depending on which coil you're getting the feed off of. Red wire off the light goes to the white wire of the lockout pair, black wire goes to either red or black depending on the pair you're using. A couple things:

-Test continuity on the ends that need power with the wires connected to the light assembly.
-Test continuity on the individual neg and pos lines to make sure there isn't a sketchy crimp or break in the line.

Do these before you try to get power to it. I had an issue where the crimp on the light end of the black wire just wasn't making contact and the tabs going onto the light assembly (and the light assembly itself) were a little loose.

Soldered the tube part of the quick disconnect where the wire gets crimped in (insert tip of iron, insert solder, ta-da), which solved the problem in the continuity of the black wire. Tightened the female qd's a bit to make sure the connection between tab and qd was nice and tight. (if you overdo it on those tiny qd's, a jeweler's flat head screwdriver undoes it nicely) Solved the slightly flaky light assembly by first bending out one tab slightly and then let gravity do the rest. Basically if the leads were being pushed slightly toward the trackball assembly, the light would go out. It's a fairly loose housing, gravity pulls it downward enough to make the connection, but I may do something to that more long term.

While it may be possible to get 12v off of the test points on the ARII, it's a hell of a lot easier to run the line from the coin door using little zip ties to secure it with the wires that go up to the control panel. This means no random wire going across the inside of the cabinet. Haven't tested it going off the ARII, so ymmv on that one.
 
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