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Well, my burner kept having an issue trying to burn them when set for the TMS2516, but an old Memory Book I found showed it crossed with the National MM2716 and that let me burn them just fine and they now verify as BZ chips. Gave the board back to him and it still doesn't work. In Game Mode...

Can BZ be adapted to run on four 2532's instead of eight 2516's? And if so, how do you go about it? Don't see any jumpers on the board. I have two v1 ROMs failing when verified against v1 files, and when read/saved and submitted to the online ROMident. One of the chips is a Synertek chip that...

Yeah, I know I fucked up, but it was late and I was tired. +5 was good so I didn't expect a problem. Game is not playing blind. I haven't looked at it to even try test mode or anything. I did check voltages and the +5, +15, -15, and +5 DAC were all good. The 10.3 is close to 12 at the AR2 test...

I started with a completely working Tempest. I was working on another Atari (Millipede) and suspected I might have a Big Blue issue, so I swapped it into my Tempest brick to see if the game booted. Turned it on and got a speaker buzz and solid start buttons. Turned it off, threw away that Big...

Haven't gotten to probing yet, but the monitor did NOT work with the AD. The AD monitor was also dead so either the monitor still needs work or the AD has a problem with the vector output since it's playing blind. I am getting a dot in the center of the screen, so the HV is up. Interestingly...

I know. I have some spare DACs left over from any Asteroids repair long ago, so I'll check those inputs - tomorrow. I've had fun with that circular logic before, tracing back looking for a signal and ending up back at the chip I started at. Fun. As far as the bench rig goes, I'm out and about...

I have a logic probe. I just don't know how to read the schematics well enough to know if a signal I'm looking for is supposed to be pulsing, high, or low. I can look up chip data sheets to get the inputs and outputs and know my Boolean Algebra well enough to know if a signal is supposed to...

You really don't need a scope to fix most monitors unless you're just trying to verify a vector signal is coming in. I rarely need more than a multimeter, although a ring tester and ESR meter come in handy sometimes. You'll find plenty of examples in the monitor section of repairs I've done for...

XOUT and YOUT have been measured. XOUT: AC = .005 V DC = 6.0 mV YOUT: AC = .003 V DC = 4.7 mV When I check for AC (against the ground terminal I assume) the lug will initially read about .47vac but then quickly drops down to the values above and stay there. I did replace the sockets with...

You make excellent points but are missing one key aspect: I work for a local company and it's up to them to buy all this stuff and they won't do it because we rarely end up doing board repair. I fix tons of monitors, fix or replace bad power supplies, etc. My boss would rather talk someone into...

It's actually easier for me to change out 5 sockets than it is to go find some place that sells DeOxit locally and then use it. I don't want to wait for someone to ship me some. If the chip sockets are that crappy, then I should change them out anyway or my customer may end up with this same...

I'll get to that tomorrow. I cleaned all the chip legs as part of the normal shit you do when trying to find out why a board isn't working. I've also verified these chips work fine. When I replace a socket, I use a meter to check all traces for continuity before and after putting in the new...

Ok, I'll change out the sockets for the pokey and the bit splicers. Do I need to do so for the little socketed chips? The heating element went out in my desoldering station, so I've had to do it by hand.

(Background for those who don't remember me - I have been fixing games for a long time and am primarily a monitor tech. I have a background in electronics but it's been a long time since tech school and I don't really have a good grasp of circuit theory when it comes to addressers and RESET...

Edge connector has been rewired properly. Game now works fine.

Ok, a bit of a change to my last post. Just went thru the entire edge connector. Whoever did this swapped the white wires that go in pins 7 and K, tying the Self Test wire to the Y INV and jumpering the Y INVERT to the Self Test input. They also put the Orange/White wire that brings the +10.3...

Ok, I'm back on the trail. Got a complete working setup in my Tempest cab again. Replaced the chip at A6 and it came back up blind. Found a blown fuse at F600 on the monitor and it was working again. Comparing my cab to the "bad' cab, I started noticing differences in the edge connector...

I also need to see if that 2N3904 at Q1 fried, although usually they pop a hole when doing so.

Understood. It's just that after 30k+ posts I guessed most people would know that I'm not a newbie who hasn't ever worked on a game before. It would be like asking Ken Layton or Buffet if they checked the fuses. I mentioned spotkiller was on because at some point someone would ask me if it was...

I haven't been doing that for several years, but for some reason it still says that on my profile. Back before I had kids I had more time to help with that. Edit: and I only had control over info. I could do nothing about photos, layout, etc.