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Fixed this monitor by installing a beefier frame mounted transistor in place of the 2sc1138 at Q933. I installed a MJE15032G and it has been holding steady for hours and a ton of restarts. I'm able to dial in the B+ at 112V and picture looks great. I'll let you guys know when it catches fire.

I've got a weird 14" Mitsubishi monitor that nobody can seem to find schematics for. It is out of a Monaco GP. I've capped it and it was doing the hula wave after it fired up but looked great otherwise. I found a bad D478 that is mounted to the frame. I replaced it with a 2SD1138, fired it...

I do have a scope but I'll have to dust it off. I appreciate the direction and will report back.

I have a 1702 monitor that I've recapped/reflowed. The monitor has beautiful colors and an amazing picture however the monitor shows a white screen when it is supposed to be black. Specifically, when a screen transitions from one colorful screen to a black screen, the screen will go bright...

Handle checks out. 😂

pfffft. LCD's....

Just wear a mask and you'll be fine.

Believe it or not, I've seen scotch tape used before. Talk about janky shit

I got in a 6100 that had C905 blown to shreds. Someone had put a 22mfd 50v cap in there. The monitor was working but blooming and out of focus. I replaced C905 with the correct value and now, I'm not getting a picture or HV static. B+ sits at 80-82vdc as is and I'm getting good voltages from...

Ken helped me out many times for mostly monitor and jukebox stuff. I'm sorry to hear of his passing. He was a big part of my early days of learning and I still learn from him in many threads on many forums. Thank you Ken.

Fixed this one. Looks like it was probably the Q901 and Q902. Someone had installed 2N3904 in those. I also just cleaned up the whole thing and replaced the browned resistors. Thanks for your help Andrew.

Man, that is so helpful and well explained. Thank you. You should see some of the caps I pulled out of it. Totally wrong values and old orange ones. I'll definitely check and replace the other components. Appreciate it and will report back

I removed the jumpers, capped it and replaced zd902 and B+ pot. B+ is now steady at 173vdc maxed out. A bit low. Picture looks good but I'd like to bring the B+ up somehow. Both LV voltages are good coming out. I'm thinking an out of spec resistor or faulty transistor in the HV cage.

I have a 6100 that has low B+ 145vdc The back of the HV board is a mess. I can't tell if these jumpers are correct and was hoping someone could tell me what is going on here. This is the B+ pototentiometer location. I will clean it up but need to know if these jumpers are correct. Thanks...

Did you try the two pots on the DK pcb?

I’ve had a couple 467’s in the past and eventually got a 490. These things can be amazing and I still can’t believe how it brought back one of my Sanyo’s recently.

Mis-aligned yoke was my first thought as well

Upgrade??

Found the problem. R611 was open. Little sumbitch is hard to see in there. Tempest is looking great again. Thanks for pointing me to the deflection issue Andrew.