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It's definitely a thing now that those boots are deteriorating. Sometimes you can clean them up pretty good. I've seen people fix them with silicone which you hate to do, but could be a last course of action if you can't reuse that boot...

You are just chasing your tail until you change the caps and give it a good reflow in the burnt up areas IMO

I've had people say that before so I don't doubt it, but I've never had much luck with it. I've got about 6 different rejuvenators too so It's not just the equipment (maybe the operator!). I've heard Shango on youtube say the same thing over the years too, if the tube needs rejuvenated he...

In my opinion, just from my experience with it, if you're using a rejuvenator you're already working on a tube that is basically unusable. OFTEN they will lose a gun after being juiced, or even if you do get it looking good, the brightness will fade after a few hours of use. That's just been...

Wondering if anyone ever figured this out? I have one doing the exact same thing

I've had the same issue... 15 years ago it was 'common knowledge' although it still could have been nonsense, that if the original green label G07 flyback is on the board, after you put new caps on it the flyback will likely die. I used to not replace it, but had probably 5 of them do it out of...

Yes when I lifted the yellow wire (right side of the board) I got spot killer, when I lifted left side I did not get spot killer, I was thinking it was the short axis from watching it run, the colors on the screen are barely visible and seem to be in the right place vertically (which is X, on...

Well, I've proven Andrew right.... I rebuilt another Deflection board, and installed it and yep, the problem was completely on the Deflection board. Everything tests fine on that deflection board, but I must have a transistor or resistor or something that doesn't always work, I'm going to...

I think you may have called it.... I removed the Yellow wire first, and the spot killer comes on with the yellow signal missing. Then reattached it, board comes up the way it was.... removed the orange wire, and the board comes up exactly the way it was. So without the orange wire, we get this...

Alright, I don't see any bad transistors on the deflection board, or on the frame, and don't see a resistor that tests wildly out of spec.... I've got -26 and +26 now, but still the same blur on the screen. I'll mess with it some more tomorrow, I think I have another deflection board I may be...

Ah, thank you. That makes sense, I have populated up a LV2000 and installed it, now I have -26 and +26... Andrew I tested all the bottlecaps, no bad ones.... but maybe someone had swapped some before? I don't know who's worked on this. We'll see if I pop some, but they all test similar with...

Yeah I just pried the smd regulator off the board, it seems like it's open (not shorted) .... maybe the design needs it functional to lower the voltage, or maybe it shorts at voltage. I have some LV2000 boards here i'm going to populate one up and replace this one with it. I agree with you I...

It's got a Low Voltage issue... the board has a "LV2k" installed in it from Arcadeshop, and the input voltages are -35 and +35, output voltages are -26 and +35. I'm going to see what's shorted....

Ahaaaaa HA! I thought it didn't sound like the focus, thank you Andrew. I just had it on for 20 seconds. The gameboard gives a good image on the scope so I'll check out the deflection board, I appreciate it. Also I tested the Yoke and it's 1ohm/.5ohm so I think that's correct for a 6100...

I'm going to check that next... I have another monitor here but they have the two different types of harnesses so I can't swap everything (and don't want to swap the yoke :) ) I'll ohm it though so we can see...

When you turned your focus knob, did it change the focus at all? And was it as blurry as this?

I swapped the HV unit into another game and it works fine in the other game, so the problem isn't in that cage.... 1. Tube 2. Neckboard socket 3. Yoke 4. Deflection board I've ruled out 1 variable, lol

That was the first thing I checked, it has continuity all the way to the focus block and you see it change slightly when you turn the focus knob. I've seen them before with that line completely disconnected and they're fuzzy but not a big blob on the screen.... and you can't adjust it (since...

6100 with original but capped deflection board and high voltage unit. I couldn't believe it when it came up. If you turn the focus you see a little bit of change on the screen, and it's running the attract mode.....

At first I thought it was a focus problem.... but I've seen 6100's with the focus wire broken and they don't go THAT out of focus. Then I thought, well surely the B+ is way off. Nope, 179v or so. So then I started thinking, maybe that's a yoke issue.... but then I decided, if it was a yoke...